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Thread: .45 ACP Molds??

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Now, truthfully.....

    Using the original, roundnose bullet profile the gun was intended to run with in the first place is the most likely way to get the .45 ACP to run, assuming we're talking about a 1911, or many other .45 manufactured guns, for that matter.

    Despite the claims of great reliability for nonstandard bullets with flat nose profiles, if I had to bet money on any given bullet profile cycling reliably, I wouldn't put much money on a lightweight bullet with a nonstandard nose flat and nonstandard overall length. Many of the bulets intended for the .45 Colt in cowboy action shooting are just that.

    Function well in many gun/magazine combinations, sure. But feed better in more guns than the original ball profile?

    Unlikely.

    Jams can occur for many reasons, but I'm talking about the shape most likely to feed.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy Snapping Twig's Avatar
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    I like the Lee 230g TC 6 gang. Really pumps out the boolits and they feed great in my Kimber.
    1. Treat every firearm as if it were loaded.
    2. Never point a firearm at anything you do not intend to shoot.
    3. Keep the finger off the trigger and firearm on safe until ready to shoot.
    4. Know the target and what's beyond it.

  3. #23
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    I agree with 35Remington. The RN profile will give you the most bang for the buck and allow you to start right now without problems. Once you have that running good then you can experiment with other designs. I am sure there are many here that will send you some samples of other designs for you to try then you can decide on another mould OR you can do like the rest of us that are addicted. Buy all the 45 moulds you can get your hands on. If it won't shoot in what you have, buy something it will shoot in.

    Robert
    "The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
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  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master
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    The "classic" GI Ball duplicator (Lyman #452374) will run very well even in unaltered "old-school" 1911A1 variants. Seat to OAL of 1.260", and off ya go.

    Some Glock pistols will stop up on 200 grain SWCs, esp. if seated with their shoulder flush to the case mouth edge. Seat with about .020" of the front drive band exposed, and they should run fine. My Glock 21 fed them both ways, even when mixed in a given magazine. Lyman #452460 shot VERY well in my G-21, from 750-1000 FPS. Just add WW-231, and serve well done.

    Last but not least, the Lee truncated cone designs in the autopistol calibers (9mm, 40/10mm, and 45) are SUPERB designs in terms of feed reliability and downrange accuracy. I love 'em. In all calibers, I seat them with .020" of front drive band exposed, then give a mild taper crimp to just turn in the case mouth flare.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub medicstimpy's Avatar
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    Kimber and a Glock, Huh? A RN bullet would be best as they will usually always feed. The SWC may or may not feed in both those guns. It won't feed in my buddy's Para Hi-Cap but does in all my 1911's and XD45.

    I use both the Lee TL452-230-2R and TL452-200-SWC and run them thru the lubrisizer with LARS Red Carnuba. Lead free barrels and don't have to wipe all the brown stuff (LLA) out with mineral spirits all the time.
    Springfield Armory - "Loaded" 1911SS, XD45TAC & XD9TAC
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    Taurus Tracker 455 - .45ACP wheel gun... WAY KEWL!!!



  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
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    Cast in Glocks

    For all you Glock shooters out here ...please read your manuals about ammo to use. Glock states that shooting lead bullets are dangerous. The rifling collects lead buildup , preasure rizes and can blow the gun up.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlin444 View Post
    For all you Glock shooters out here ...please read your manuals about ammo to use. Glock states that shooting lead bullets are dangerous. The rifling collects lead buildup , preasure rizes and can blow the gun up.


    Yes, factory Glock barrels have polygonal rifling but a person can shoot lead if they work at it right.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master
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    marlin, good thing my Glock can't read or you'd hurt its feelings.

    See the sticky in the pistol section.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    I recently went through a learning curve with my 1916 Colt 1911. I wanted a classic looking bullet so I skipped the Lee 230 tumble lube and went with the more classic looking 228. I had lots of chambering problems but looked up the problem on past threads here and fixed it by lowering the OAL while lowering the powder load because of possible pressure increase.

    It shoots great and chambers flawlessly. Fortunately, this forum has all the answers for what ails you.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    The most trouble free will be any RN design. If you want cleaner holes in paper but still have a great functioning bullet, the 230grTC from Lee or sim is a good choice. If you want the same bullet in 200gr, then Magma makes this one.

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlin444 View Post
    For all you Glock shooters out here ...please read your manuals about ammo to use. Glock states that shooting lead bullets are dangerous. The rifling collects lead buildup , preasure rizes and can blow the gun up.
    They also say you shouldn't reload. Just clean more often than you would say a 1911, it will run fine, especially the 45s.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    In stead of starting a new thread I am posting here. I recently got my first 1911 an I plan to start casting for it as well. I have had good luck with my .38 special and I did ok with 9mm. The two molds that I am looking for are both Lees. I cant decide on the TL452-230-2R or the 452-228-1R. I dont have a lubsizer so I will have to pan lube or tumble lube. Starting off it will not be in high volume so I am open to pan lubing. I want a reliable feeding bullet and just by looks the step in the tl452-230-2r may cause feeding/ leading problems. I am just looking to see what others have to say and suggest. I also had some luck tumble lubing some 38 swc with the regular lube groves.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Like a couple of others here, I too use the Lee 2-Cavity Bullet Mold TL452-230-2R for 45ACP, and I have been using it since the early 90's.






    It has always been a pleasant mold and never let me down. Since it is a Tumble Lube design, it should make you should feel right at home.

    They drop a bit larger than .452 but most Lee molds drop a bit oversize. I size them down to .452 using a Lee push through sizer.

    I find that 6.0 grains of Unique works just fine behind the 230 grain boolit (mine cast around 228grains) They give nice accuracy and no leading in my guns. I used to tumble lube them using Lee liquid Alox with excellent results.

    I like Recluse's 45-45-10 formula (Johnson's Paste Wax + Alox + mineral spirits) as a lube even better now. If you haven't yet, be sure check out the sticky about it. It definitely takes all the hassle out of Alox, and tumble lubing.


    - Bullwolf

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy mebe007's Avatar
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    the lyman 452374 feeds flawlessly in my 1911

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy
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    my 1911 feeds almost anything, Xd45 won't feed swc, Glock36 wont feed anything except RN. (No stepped shoulders on RN like Lee 230 RN tumble lube)

  16. #36
    Boolit Master

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    I have the lee 230gr TC with normal grease grooves and the Mihec 200gr HP, both feed flawlessly in both my 1911 and my sons 1911, I use 45/45/10 on both, size to .452 and have no leading issues.

    Remember, you don't need TL boolits to TL.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master

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    Mihec H&G #68, works through my 1911 like poop through a goose.
    Good, Cheap, Fast: Pick two.

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  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy John Van Gelder's Avatar
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    Bullwolf

    Good looking reloads...

    I have two bullets that I favor in the .45ACP, both are from H&G molds, the 68 which is a nice 200 gr. SWC, the other is a 240 gr. SWC originally intended for the auto rim, but it works well in my .45acps, it has taken a number of bears and deer quite neatly.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master XWrench3's Avatar
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    I have been running the lee 230g round nose (standard 45acp bullet) mold for several years. The only trouble i have ever had is you have to get the seating depth correct (which will be shorter than the standard oal), or the slide will not close. There is a ridge at the end of the round nose, that will catch the edge of your chamber or rifling. As long as your loading teqniques are not sloppy, it is a fine way to go. If your a little less than a perfectionist, they also make a trunacated nose bullet mold, that does not have the ridge like the round nose does. That may be less fussy than the round nose is on exact oal. Whatever you do, make sure you get the 6 cavity mold. You will get very spoiled, very fast with it. So much so, that you will want every other mold you own to be 6 cavity molds!
    Silver and Gold are for rich men. Lead and Brass is MY silver and gold! And when push comes to shove, one of my silver and gold pieces will be more valuable than a big pile of actual silver and gold.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master
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    X, if loading the 230-2R, correct OAL should be in the vicinity of 1.265" which is pretty much standard length for ball duplication.

    If 228-1R, this is a nonstandard bullet that will result in a nonstandard OAL of around 1.220" seated to work through most 45's.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check