Any suggestions....sticking mold blocks

[Dragonheart]

I mention handles because they control the force of opening and the direction that force is applied. Mold blocks are designed to separate when pulled directly apart in addition to freely pivoting on the mold to handle pins. It doesn't take much of a bind to cause that separation action to be off and a good reason to use handles designed for the mold, especially if it is a quality mold and the tolerances are close.

Handles may not be the problem, but on a new mold it is definitely the first place I would look, especially if I could separate the mold by hand easily. Why do you think the H&G company always fitted handles to the mold and a good reason not to buy an H&G mold where some sleazebag separated the original handles so he could sell them separately.

[Targa]

Hopefully I will get a chance to cast with the Arsenal in the next couple of weeks. Thank you all for the suggestions, I will try them the next time I cast and give a report.

[Targa]

Update on the sticking problem, the alignment pin will no longer go into the corresponding hole. It is not the pin but the front hole itself.

[Dragonheart]

I think you have reached the point of returning the mold back to the maker and let him diagnose the problem. Warped mold comes to mind, the most common cause is uneven heating, but the stress of machining can leave some with an inherent likelihood of warping.

I own about a dozen NOE brass molds and I run them hotter that what you have posted, but I don't use a hot plate to preheat.

[Targa]

I agree, I am mailing it back to Arsenal tomorrow.