Help Locating .410 Shotgun Reload Data for the Svarog Sabot Slug

[Get-The-Lead-Out]

I went out today to buy .410ga slug loads so could cut them open and get a pretty good idea for how the factory slug loads are being done, and I uploaded pics of the dissected slugs

Our Wally World DOES NOT have any 410ga slug loads and I haven't seen them there since Summer of last year. The salesman there today said he hasn't seen them in a while either and there's a good chance that they won't even be getting 'special' 410ga loads come this deer season

So I checked 3 actual sporting goods stores within a 20 minute drive from me and only one said they had 410ga slug loads, and lucky me, they actually had 3 different brands:

1) Brenneke Close Encounter (looks like a thug slug), 2 1/2" shell, 1500 velocity, 1/4oz slug ...... made in German and loaded in the USA



The finished length of the shell after they roll crimped it, is approx 2 1/16"

The order of loading components went as:
a) Powder
b) White plastic 'podium' wad with gas check on its base to seal against the powder. From there it necks down to a THIN stem and then has a pedestal or flat thin base
c) Slug is then 'pressed' onto the wad


2) Federal Power Shock. Maximum Rifled Slug HP, 2 1/2" shell, 1775 velocity, 1/4oz slug



The finished length of the shell after they roll crimped it, is approx 2 1/4"

The order of loading components went as:
a) Powder
b) White plastic log-shape wad with cushioning ribs near the lower end of it
c) Slug only rests on the wad and is not fastened to it


3) This is the one I found interesting due to what I've never seen or heard of being used to load shells with

So it's the Winchester SuperX Rifled Slug Hollow Point, 2 1/2" shell, 1830 velocity, 1/5oz slug



The finished length of the shell after they roll crimped it, is approx 2 3/8"

The order of loading components went as:
a) Powder
b) The green plastic gas check
c) What appears to be ground corn husk (the interesting aspect I mentioned)
d) Nitro card
e) Slug

I am most interested in that Federal slug load due to simplicity and due to tip of the slug came out near the end of the shell like the Winchester load did, but NO THANKS on loading my slugs with using Winchester's NUMEROUS components including 'ground corncob'. The tip of German Brenneke slug was actually a near 1/4" down from where they finished the roll crimp, and since this is a factory load, it's looking like it doesn't matter if the slug isn't out to the end of the finished shell or not. I just know with my fold crimp, it's best to have the slug come out to where the fold is going to lay down on top of it.

I know that I can't just go by what I see and like here with any of these slugs since the load I end up going with can change things quite a bit due to the type of powder, gas check, wad, nitro cards, fiber cushion, the length of my cast slug, and the fact that these factory slug loads here are finished with a roll crimp and I will be using a fold crimp

[W.R.Buchanan]

.410 hulls are the most finicky with Fold Crimps. The stack height has to be nearly perfect or the crimp will either over close or under close.

Since the hulls you have were originally folded you will have to make your payload come out in the right position to close right.

Note: the little Brenneke Slugs Pedestal Wad collapses during firing and the pedestal is shoved up into the base of the slug. The big ones work exactly the same way. see pic.


If you do everything right your crimp should look like this. see pic.

Randy

[Get-The-Lead-Out]

.410 hulls are the most finicky with Fold Crimps. The stack height has to be nearly perfect or the crimp will either over close or under close.

Since the hulls you have were originally folded you will have to make your payload come out in the right position to close right.

Note: the little Brenneke Slugs Pedestal Wad collapses during firing and the pedestal is shoved up into the base of the slug. The big ones work exactly the same way. see pic.


If you do everything right your crimp should look like this. see pic.

Randy

Ok I see what ya mean. I've been seeing a lot of other people saying how the 410ga can be a bit trickier to get all the right loading components to bring the tip of the slug up to where the fold crimp will come right on or at least pretty close to being on top of it, and so why many people will opt for the roll crimp to make things easier.

Since I found out a couple days agao that I had a mixed bag of Winchester 2 1/2" and 3" hulls and things are lookin dead serious that I'm not going to find any once-fired hulls due to the shortage and when they're Winchester and Remington hulls they get bought up QUICKLY, the deal was really good (at least to the prices I compared to other sites) and so I went ahead and ordered 1,000 Fiocchi 2 1/2" primered strived hulls (which I just learned what a strived hull is) and so from what I've been reading, I will most likely need Ballistic Product's crimp starter for fresh hulls that haven't had their crimp yet. lol so yeah you might got me there and I will be buying a couple-few things from them after all

I know there is a 6-crimp starter that's still available on Ballistic's website, and a 8-crimp starter which is currently unavailable. So here in the next couple days I'm going to check my Mec 600jr and see if it already has the 6 or the 8-crimp die on it. I would think the 6-crimp would be better in the way of having less stress to 'scrunch' the crimp down in.... but I dont really know. So what do you think?

Oh and here's my 20ga sabot slug loads using the Lyman 350gr mold.... crimps turn out near-perfect every time and same with my 12ga 7/8oz keydrive slug loads

[elmacgyver0]

BPI also have roll crimpers for .410

[Get-The-Lead-Out]

BPI also have roll crimpers for .410

Yep already know BPI has A LOT of reloading supplies but I already said here a couple times that I'm going to do the fold crimp

[BigEyeBob]

Yep already know BPI has A LOT of reloading supplies but I already said here a couple times that I'm going to do the fold crimp

Just weigh the slug and use shot load data that coresponds to that wieght . 410 shotguns are not choked in my experience as 410 is a caliber not a gauge like other shotguns and is measured on bore diameter rather than the number of lead balls to the pound.CBE in Australia has availabe a mould for 410 slugs which fit inside 410 wads , the mould is adjustable to drop what ever wieght slug you desire .Ive been loading 1/2 oz slugs using W296, and winchester wads (pink / red) .with good results from my Aya sxs gun.

[Hogtamer]

In my experience most .410s are full or modified choke.

[Get-The-Lead-Out]

Just weigh the slug and use shot load data that coresponds to that wieght . 410 shotguns are not choked in my experience as 410 is a caliber not a gauge like other shotguns and is measured on bore diameter rather than the number of lead balls to the pound.CBE in Australia has availabe a mould for 410 slugs which fit inside 410 wads , the mould is adjustable to drop what ever wieght slug you desire .Ive been loading 1/2 oz slugs using W296, and winchester wads (pink / red) .with good results from my Aya sxs gun.

Yes, can definitely use the shot load data, based from its weight, to then apply it to the load being done for a slug of the same/close weight

The mold/mould that you mentioned sounds quite interesting! Do you have a link to the site where they have details and sell it?

I've done QUITE a bit of searching by trying different search engines and a slew of different key words, but I dont believe I came across the mold you're talking about

[W.R.Buchanan]

Get: here's the deal on slugs. A Slug must be stabilized in order to fly strait and produce any usable accuracy.

They can be Spin Stabilized (Rifling) Drag Stabilized (attached wad) or simply Weight Forward (Foster style slugs.)

The only exception is the Round Ball which just goes generally where ever it is pointed. If you are just going to be poking holes in backyard junk get a .395 round ball mould and have at it.

On a .410 you will use the 6 point Crimp as there isn't enough room for the 8. see pic above.

My only use for .410 slugs is my M6 Scout Survival Gun. .22/.410. I have some Federal Slugs that I carry in it and they are just above a .357 Mag in power so at least I have something useful on the gun. I do however shoot alot of .410 Birdshot for Skeet and my Browning Citori likes my Reloads. 16 gr of H110, Red Wad and 1/2 oz of #9 shot. The pic above is one of my Reloads.

Randy

[gpidaho]

Get: Kids just got me logged in down here in Florida. I'll be back in Idaho on the 12th. If you want to try the Russian pellet slug I'll make you up a few. $100 is kind of expensive just to try something that may or may not work for you. Gp

[Get-The-Lead-Out]

Get: Kids just got me logged in down here in Florida. I'll be back in Idaho on the 12th. If you want to try the Russian pellet slug I'll make you up a few. $100 is kind of expensive just to try something that may or may not work for you. Gp

Well I've outlined the cost and mentioned here the following no fewer than 2-3 times.... the mold is nowhere near 100.00, it is a bottom-line total of 56.18 us dollars thus is obviously WELL-WORTH getting the mold to at least give it a go since I love a challenge of reloading slugs but especially because I'm a paraplegic and can't get outside during the upcoming Winter months to do much of anything

and if things dont work out like I'm wanting them to with making my 410 slug loads, the Svarog mold will be an EASY re-sell on Ebay and most likely for profit at that

But hey thanks for the offer