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Thread: Mold release?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    Grave of Liberty
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    142
    Other than 2-stroke oil on the pins and sprue plate bolt, my aluminum molds get cleaned with brake cleaner then heat cycled a few times in a toaster oven. No issues with sticking bullets.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SE Kentucky
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    1,325
    Found the best use for the graphite spray release agents is the bottom of the sprue plate and the top of the mold. Give it a light spray on the sprue plate and then after stuffing cotton balls in the cavities a light hit on the top of the mold. Lubes the contact between them and eliminates lead sticking to the plate. A drop of synthetic 2 cycle oil applied with a Q-tip on the alignment pins and ready to go. On the Lee 6 cavity usually remove the sprue plate and apply a bit of hi-temp copper anti-sieze at the pivot point to prevent galling of the mold and plate. With the Lee don't forget to lube the pin and washer on the stop for the plate and a drop on the hinge of the sprue cutting lever.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    Nov 2011
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    East Arkansas where I55 & I40 come together and then split
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    I have used the Frankford Arsenal mold release spray. It is very hard to get out of a mold, what I have left I use to coat the end of the pins in a hollow point
    mold. Those things can be stubborn but that mold release helps a bunch on that particular mold.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
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    Feb 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    Once an aluminum mould is completely cleaned of all machining oils , heat cycled a few times and broken in with a few casting sessions ... it will become seasoned like a cast iron skillet and boolits will not stick .
    If you have a cavity that is "sticky" spray the cavities with a Dry Lubricant that contains Teflon and let dry . The micro-Teflon particles form a thin film like a teflon coated pan and boolits want to jump out the mould when opened ... after a few uses you will no longer have to use it.
    The dry Lube is the best "mould release" it doesn't build up and it doesn't make your mould black and cruddy and .... It Doesn't Contaminate the Cavities . Just try it once !
    The stuff I've used in the past was Liquid Wrench Dry Lube L512 but I'm sure any brand will do .
    If you need a mould release ...this is the best !
    Gary
    Teflon emits toxic fumes around 480°. The last thing I would put in a mold cavity would be something containing Teflon.
    NRA Benefactor.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
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    Central Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by JM7.7x58 View Post
    I basically do my own variation of all of the above. The scub is essential, I use a mild abrasive powdered cleanser called Bartenders Friend. I find that the Lee molds can have a substantial burr on the edge of the cavities, the scrubbing removes the burrs.

    Sometimes I get a little too much two stroke oil on my mold. A quick spay with brake cleaner, followed by a clean q-tip swipe in the cavities, gets me back in business.

    JM
    100%!!!! ♥️♥️
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check