RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionTitan ReloadingWideners
Snyders JerkyMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingRepackbox
Inline Fabrication Load Data
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 42

Thread: Tumbling Buckshot?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy garrisonjoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    102
    The alloy calculator said 13% tin with a Brinnell of 14.6 aircooled.
    What do you suppose it is water dropped?
    It will be close to 28 BNH quenched. The antimony is what gives the alloy the ability to be quench hardened. Your antimony will be about 2.5%, and those alloys quench to about 28 BNH, when quenched from a 450 F starting temp. Pretty darn hard for most purposes. The sprue may indeed be hard to remove with a vibratory cleaner. I vibrate loaded ammo with BNH 9 bullets and walnut hull media, and the noses do not deform, they just get a little bit of burnishing and a few minor scratches on the nose!

    Vibratory cleaners are intended to clean rather than impact the product. Any buckshot made harder than about 7BNH may be difficult to "vibrate off" the sprue.

    good luck, garrisonjoe

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Trenton, Fl
    Posts
    334
    Maybe I'll just water quench straight wheel weights next time. What bhn should they be?

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Quote Originally Posted by Leslie Sapp View Post
    Maybe I'll just water quench straight wheel weights next time. What bhn should they be?
    Probably the same. The water quenching has more of an effect than the exact alloy you use.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    3,735
    Quote Originally Posted by Leslie Sapp View Post
    Maybe I'll just water quench straight wheel weights next time. What bhn should they be?
    IMHO there is simply no honest answer here. I was talkin with a guy who was quoting numbers awearing crazy bhn. I kept asking CLIP ON WHEEL WEIGHTS.. He replied WW. Fineally someone got him to realize that WW is A GENERAL term and COWW was different then SOWW. S.O. Are MUCH SOFTER, and terfore "soffen" the entire pot if COWW!!

    THEN, not all COWW are same hardness EITHER!!! So ya can see how we can get into the confusion.

    Suffice it to say, it will be harder by a goodly amount droped into ICE WATER directly from mold. Colder and consistantly COLD the is waterthe better results will be realized.

    BUT... My own careful sorting of COWW net about 12-14 AIR COOLED and 17-20 QUENCHED. MY METHODS.
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Trenton, Fl
    Posts
    334
    My own careful sorting of COWW net about 12-14 AIR COOLED and 17-20 QUENCHED
    The alloy calculator has COWW at 12, and I was expecting quenched pure COWW in the 17-18 range.

    Haven't tested any yet, but I'll post the results once I do.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    3,735
    What would ya think about casting but mot quenching. (To keep sofe enough to tumble round). Then after round heat treating and water quenching for hardness?

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  7. #27
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    3,735
    Quote Originally Posted by Leslie Sapp View Post
    The alloy calculator has COWW at 12, and I was expecting quenched pure COWW in the 17-18 range.

    Haven't tested any yet, but I'll post the results once I do.
    Imagion that!! But again remember MY COWW are not NECESSARILY exact same as ANYONE ELSES!!! There isnt a level of testing proving the hardness of a WW...NO industry "standard" here. As long as they "stay on" they are hard enough... NO ONE IS GONNA complain!!
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master


    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Aberdeen, South Dakota
    Posts
    7,136
    Quote Originally Posted by cwlongshot View Post
    What would ya think about casting but mot quenching. (To keep sofe enough to tumble round). Then after round heat treating and water quenching for hardness?

    CW
    You certainly could, but heat treated still tumble just fine in my rock tumbler. There are charts around that show approxamate hardnesses for heat treating, and how temperature effects it. I wouldn't worry about it too much. When I tested, I was using straight clip on wheel weights, no soft lead at all, and added 2.5% tin. These COWW's were from the 70's most likely, my grandpa had in the pole barn for decades. If casting in the winter, I add a couple scoops of snow to the water bucket. If not, I run straight well water, which is nice and cool. Every time I've tested has been in that 25-30 BHN range, which of course depends on the temp they fall out of the mold, and the temp of the water.

    Either way, they are very hard, and they do pattern better than soft buckshot. Soft being like the bags of buckshot we used to buy, and was not as hard as even COWW air cooled. A quick search shows most swaged shot being 8-10 BHN. I would rather have hard shot with a nub of a sprue, than soft buckshot, which exists the barrel as a cube (or worse).

  9. #29
    Moderator

    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ojai CA
    Posts
    9,885
    I have one of the little Harbor Freight Tumblers but I have to say I really like the pencil lead idea. That's what I come here for,,, well that, and to Vent!

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  10. #30
    Moderator
    RogerDat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Michigan Lansing Area
    Posts
    5,754
    I use a squeeze bottle of graphite and a FART to tumble for a couple of hours. Sprue is gone, shot is well covered. I cast out of hardball (2/6 Sn/Sb alloy BHN ~16) I think any more alloy starts to shrink the weight. I would also note that time invested in casting + cost of alloy makes it not terribly profitable use of my time if selling it, fine for own use. Buck shot is certainly pretty expensive and it doesn't take a huge amount of casting to produce a supply for self.

    I may have to look into the mechanical pencil lead idea, also check tractor supply for refills or graphite in bulk. I would add if you have a hollow point or hollow base mold graphite on the pin really really helps a lot with having bullets drop off. Even just rubbing with a soft pencil makes a difference. Dab of powdered graphite on Q tip works very well. Want to try the graphite spray at some point. Just because have heard it works well and powdered is a game changer for dropping off of hollow point pins or Minnie ball mold pins.

    Just an FYI - One can buy a .31 Lee Round Ball mold with 6 cavities at Track of the Wolf that is good for casting #1 buck shot. MP molds ran a group buy on some 8 cavity buck shot molds that were very nice ordering one of those direct might be an option. Lee also makes their "string of pearls" molds for buck shot. I think the shot from all of these benefit from getting the sprue tumbled off and graphite coating so they don't corrode and stick together in the shot shell.

    Graphite does take some cleaning to get out of the drum after tumbling, probably not 100% gone either.
    Roger
    Last edited by RogerDat; 09-28-2020 at 07:02 PM.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat

  11. #31
    Moderator
    RogerDat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Michigan Lansing Area
    Posts
    5,754
    Quote Originally Posted by cwlongshot View Post
    IMHO there is simply no honest answer here. I was talkin with a guy who was quoting numbers awearing crazy bhn. I kept asking CLIP ON WHEEL WEIGHTS.. He replied WW. Fineally someone got him to realize that WW is A GENERAL term and COWW was different then SOWW. S.O. Are MUCH SOFTER, and terfore "soffen" the entire pot if COWW!!

    THEN, not all COWW are same hardness EITHER!!! So ya can see how we can get into the confusion.

    Suffice it to say, it will be harder by a goodly amount droped into ICE WATER directly from mold. Colder and consistantly COLD the is waterthe better results will be realized.

    BUT... My own careful sorting of COWW net about 12-14 AIR COOLED and 17-20 QUENCHED. MY METHODS.
    This is one argument for using alloy to achieve a certain hardness. Method has to be consistent for consistent results. Controlling for changes or variables requires attention to the details such as those mentioned. The alloy calculator can help you work out the alloy, otherwise it is on you to use your method in a consistent and proven manner to achieve desired hardness.

    Arsenic in small almost trace amounts from COWW lead has an impact on how water quenching effects the lead. Sb & Sn lead alloy is not going to come out the same as Sn & Sb plus As. The amount of As may vary so I think that makes control of what you can control like water temp and lead casting temp even more important.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat

  12. #32
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    3,735
    Agreed!

    FYI. Most places that offer these buck shot molds are OUT OF SCTOCK across the web. Companies selling them for 90$ + have some. But why pay nearly 100$ for a 50$ mold????

    Im wanting a #4 and 00 Buck molds Myself.

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  13. #33
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    3,735
    Answering myself here. But for info for others. Martys Molds has molds IN STOCK AND AVAILABLE!!

    I grabbed a combo mold as my qualtities are not so large that less at a time is a large issue. So I grabbed a #4/00 Buck mold. One side is #4 other is 00! PERFECT for me and also 1/2 Cost as its one mold not two!

    I cast some and now really see the sprue issues as I have t cast shot this way. Meaning My molds have been conventional one or two cav and had a spure cutter. These need be snipped a d that leaves a much larger sprue mark then Mine have in past!! Tumbling is required!!

    Thanks for the knowledge guys!

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    Newtire's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Star, Idaho
    Posts
    2,926
    I always thought it was the antimony that caused the boolits to harden when water dropping.

  15. #35
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    52
    Add me to the list that tumbles buckshot in the HF rotary tumbler. Once tumbled to smooth over the sprue cut I clean them with acetone and then powder coat them - just like the "pretty colors" in the clear/transparent shells.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Beautiful Idaho
    Posts
    2,644
    Quote Originally Posted by meadmkr View Post
    Add me to the list that tumbles buckshot in the HF rotary tumbler. Once tumbled to smooth over the sprue cut I clean them with acetone and then powder coat them - just like the "pretty colors" in the clear/transparent shells.
    I'm another who likes to powder coat my buckshot. Not so much for the pretty colors but it opens up options as in using gas seals and fiber wad, nitro card stacks when the larger buckshot bulges the hull in a plastic wad. There is a handy silicone baking mat who's real purpose it to make your own chocolate chips. This mat has small half round pockets and works well for baking buckshot or round ball with out them sticking together. Gp

  17. #37
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    52
    Besides the color when powder coating i believe it helps reduce the lead residue when handling them. I find stacking buckshot to maximize content/volume tends to be a bit more hands on than loading birdshot. I have a chunk of 3/8" aluminum plating under the silicone mat - I find it easier to transfer that with the heavier tray/shot combo to the ovens as the lightweight ones tend to be bumped/knocked over easier. Also adds some thermal mass which I believe helps with a more consistent temp.

  18. #38
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    355
    Quote Originally Posted by cwlongshot View Post
    Agreed!

    FYI. Most places that offer these buck shot molds are OUT OF SCTOCK across the web. Companies selling them for 90$ + have some. But why pay nearly 100$ for a 50$ mold????

    Im wanting a #4 and 00 Buck molds Myself.

    CW
    Considering 8 pounds of buck shot is close to $40 if you can find it an $80 mold isn't really overpriced in my opinion. I've had my Marty's mold for a week and already cast 15 pounds of #1 buck. Heck 8 pounds of #1 buck would only load 93 of my rounds.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    3,735
    Quote Originally Posted by Muddydogs View Post
    Considering 8 pounds of buck shot is close to $40 if you can find it an $80 mold isn't really overpriced in my opinion. I've had my Marty's mold for a week and already cast 15 pounds of #1 buck. Heck 8 pounds of #1 buck would only load 93 of my rounds.
    You miss the point.. Its a 50$ mold!! Why pay more??? Its "worth it" is personal decision. I wont pay hacker costs.

    Martys molds are AWESOME and cost 100$. I have one now as well.

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by Newtire View Post
    I always thought it was the antimony that caused the boolits to harden when water dropping.
    I could talk about this for a month! LOL!!
    BUT, I will let an article excerpt try to summarize Sb (antimony) in lead as to the effect on hardness.

    This article was discussing how to make a lead battery terminal stronger,, IMHO, boolits follow with similar needs.

    "Solution Treating and Aging
    Adding sufficient quantities of antimony to produce hypoeutectic lead-antimony alloys can attain useful strengthening of lead. Small amounts of arsenic have particularly strong effects on the age-hardening response of such alloys, and solution treating and rapid quenching prior to aging enhance these effects.

    Hardness Stability. For most of the two-year period, the solution-treated specimens were harder than the quench-east specimens. Other investigations have also shown that alloys cooled slowly after casting are always softer than quenched alloys. The alloys with 2 and 4% Sb harden comparatively slowly, and the alloy containing 6% Sb appears to undergo optimum hardening."

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check