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Thread: S&W Model 10-5: tips getting the side plate off?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    S&W Model 10-5: tips getting the side plate off?

    I've got a used Smith and Wesson Model 10-5 off of Gunbroker from around 1969. The finish is badly worn in places but the internals are sweet! Feels like almost new on the inside. Considering that it's a used revolver, I'm doing my best to cover all my bases regarding its condition in all aspects.


    I've attempted to get the sideplate off to replace the lubricant in the hammer and other internals but it's fast shut. The screws come out just fine, including the main-spring. I've noted this small spot of rust on the border between the side plate and the frame itself. Could this be the culprit of the sticky sideplate?
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...4&d=1600459173

    I've tried firm blows with a silicone padded screwdriver grip, but the plates holds fast.

    As I've been putting larger amounts of lubricant into accessible parts of the internals. When I dry-fire with snap caps, lubricant leaks out of the side plate towards the cylinder and nearby the yoke screw, and carries out a sizable amount of gunk with it that I wipe off with a swab pad.

    I'd rather take this issue to a gunsmith, and I do NOT want to attempt to pry this off with a screwdriver obviously.

    Is there any way I can upload larger attachments that can fit in for more details? I'm just glad my sideplate image managed to get here.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sideplate.JPG  

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Groo's Avatar
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    Groo here
    Hold the frame in one hand, take a plastic screwdriver , soft faced hammer , or a bar of lead [1lb or more] and tap the frame just off the side plate.
    This make several raps, take your time,
    The sideplate is a hand fit item and may take time.....

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    Plastic or brass tap hammers are best for that kind of work. I agree with tapping the side of the back strap. Should loosen it up with a couple dozen light raps.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groo View Post
    Groo here
    Hold the frame in one hand, take a plastic screwdriver , soft faced hammer , or a bar of lead [1lb or more] and tap the frame just off the side plate.
    This make several raps, take your time,
    The sideplate is a hand fit item and may take time.....
    I do intend to take my time with that. One thing of note is that the Gun Shop that the piece came from was in Florida. Humidity may have actually sealed it in, I fear.

    Next time put some more lubricant through the inside, I'll give bonking the sideplate a try once again I don't have any lead handy but I'll try bonking harder. It's only plastic compared to blued steel!

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    Slightly different technique--(assuming you're right handed) remove the grips, remove the 4 side plate screws hold the revolver with the cylinder closed in your left hand, tilt the revolver to the right to about 2 o'clock, lightly smack the right side of the grip frame with a wooden hammer handle. The plate will fall off, or at least come out far enough for you to get your fingers under it and pull it off. Have a pad of some sort on your bench top for the side plate to fall onto.

    Note: Pay attention to which screw comes out of which hole, as they are not all the same length. Do not remove the screw on the bottom of the frame in front of the trigger guard, as it has nothing to do with the side plate, and is what (with an internal spring) controls the cylinder bolt stop. When you reinstall the side plate gently fit and tap it back into place, because a Groo noted they were hand fit.

  6. #6
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    Don't strike the side plate!!! You want to strike the grip frame below the side plate, which in effect moves the frame away from the side plate. Like Groo said, you hold the frame in one hand, and strike the grip frame from the same side the side plate is on. I always used the hard plastic handle of a screw driver when I was the armorer for our department, and they always came off. A small plastic tipped mallet will also work.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  7. #7
    Boolit Man
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    VariableRecal,

    Generally, when I get items in that condition, I toss the items into a bucket of kerosene for a week or two. Give the kerosene plenty of time to work its way into all the cracks, crevices, and rust. Be patient, sometimes takes a while but it beats marred screws and scarred surfaces.

    PB

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    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phineas Bluster View Post
    VariableRecal,

    Generally, when I get items in that condition, I toss the items into a bucket of kerosene for a week or two. Give the kerosene plenty of time to work its way into all the cracks, crevices, and rust.
    PB
    I don't have any kerosene handy, but I've given the thing plenty of cleaning with solvent followed by lubricant. I wipe the thing down with a paper towel or swab before putting it away to ensure as few of my hand oils get on it. As far as I know the rust is under control.

    I've got a feeling that the previous owner might have used the revolver for Everyday Carry, but shot it little. I can still see the distinct impressions of the cartridges right behind the cylinder. I'd assume the area with the finish completely off was caused by a button on their holster sliding directly against the metal. The Nylon holster I've got only has direct contact with foam and fabric, well protected from the button that keeps it in place.

    Could I find Kerosene at a hardware store? I'd want to purchase as little as possible if I can help it.

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    Shouldn't be a problem to find kerosene. The hardware store will likely have it. The kind you'll find there is clear, and usually used now days as a fuel for portable heaters. Kind of expensive, but one gallon will last most shop enthusiasts a couple of years.

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    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post
    Shouldn't be a problem to find kerosene. The hardware store will likely have it. The kind you'll find there is clear, and usually used now days as a fuel for portable heaters. Kind of expensive, but one gallon will last most shop enthusiasts a couple of years.
    I live in an apartment with no garage, but I've got an exterior supply closet available for storage that's kinda full. Not delighted to get kerosene fumes anywhere in my apartment so If I need some I'm going to probably limit the amount that I use so that I have less to store as well.

    Would purchasing a smaller amount (A quart) and immersing the piece in a plastic bag filled with ample kerosene, like a marinated steak, be a reasonable strategy?

    Obviously I should re-lubricate everything immediately after it dries, am I correct?

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Kroil is your friend for things like this. Spray it liberally and allow it to soak. It may fall off easily after that.
    Kroil will work it's way into the space between the frame and side[late even though it looks like there isn't any space there. It will soften and help loosen all the crud and rust in there.
    I have used it on auto wheel lug bolts that were rusted solid for years and after treatment with Kroil, they spin right off.

  12. #12
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    Shouldn't need kerosene for that, it doesn't really look that bad. As mentioned take out all that side plate screws then rap the grip frame with something non marring.

    When I went to Law Enforcement Armorer's school back in the dark ages, we used a piece of Babbitt material about 3/4" diameter x six inches long.

    Robert

    Be advised, when the sideplate comes off the hammer block will fall out.

    R

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    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    Thanks for the video! I'll try that out when I get the chance

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I hold the revolver horizontal with the side plate facing down. Then I tap the side of the grip frame from below. Also works for getting the side plate back on by holding it side plate facing up. Using properly fitted screw drivers and this tapping method you can do this and leave no evidence that the side plate was removed.
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  16. #16
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    instead of stinky kerosene, try non scented lamp oil.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tazman View Post
    Kroil is your friend for things like this. Spray it liberally and allow it to soak. It may fall off easily after that.
    Kroil will work it's way into the space between the frame and side[late even though it looks like there isn't any space there. It will soften and help loosen all the crud and rust in there.
    I have used it on auto wheel lug bolts that were rusted solid for years and after treatment with Kroil, they spin right off.

    Agreed. Kroil is king for many things.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Wouldn't hurt to spray the Kroil or whatever penetrant you're using inside as well, work at the plate from both sides. Will also loosen the gunk that has built up inside the action and make cleaning easier.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich/WIS View Post
    Wouldn't hurt to spray the Kroil or whatever penetrant you're using inside as well, work at the plate from both sides. Will also loosen the gunk that has built up inside the action and make cleaning easier.
    I'm not exactly sure what Kroil is. If you could grab an Amazon listing for it, that would be nice. I'd rather not get the wrong product if I don't know what I'm looking for. The timing and action on the revolver are just fine, I just want to make sure the side plate gets the attention that it deserves.

    Once it's off, I'm planning on wiping down the edges with solvent, like the rest of the revolver, then coating the edges gently with lubricant to protect it in the future.
    Last edited by VariableRecall; 09-19-2020 at 06:54 PM.

  20. #20
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    Kroil works great for this but WD Penetrating Oil also is a wonder. Spray it down, let it sit and along with the others advice do not strike the side plate. Lead, rawhide hammer will work on this. Take your time and if it doesn't move, lube some more. You might take the grips off and heat it in a toaster oven to warm but not bake it. This will help the lube work its way in.
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