Do a search for Kroil where to buy on google. It is the stuff in the orange and white can. It comes in both spray and bulk cans.
Here is a link.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=...sclient=psy-ab
I've used wd40 on guns and it does okay for cleaning. Bout like remoil.
50-50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is supposed to be the best penetrant.
Put the gun in a gallon sip-lock plastic bag. Then
spray down with what ever penetrating oil
you use, let set for a couple of days.
Then try to remove the side plate.
I think that might just be what I try to do when I get the chance, and bonking it out of the revolver won't work.
If you try like what's in the video, and it don't work, try hitting it harder. A wooden hammer handle works best in my opinion.
If the side plate is on there good and tight I would not try and mess with trying to get it off,
as your efforts might dig it up and the affect the side plate fit.
my recommendation:
1. get a metal ammo can, 30 cal would do but 50 would work better (more room to work in).
get a metal can from gun show or walmart, etc.
2. go to hardware store, walmart, farm store, etc, and buy a gallon (or 2 quarts)
each of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid).
3. fill can about half way with 50% atf and 50% acetone.
4. strip gun of grips, wrap in cloth (to prevent scratches from ammo can) and put in can, submerged in atf+acetone mixture.
5. come back in a day or 2 or 3, put rubber glove on, reach into fluid and dry fire the gun a few dozen times.
6. if you feel like it, get a clean, used tooth brush and scrub under the extractor and around the cylinder and frame window.
gloves, safety glasses, and old clothes are a good idea here.
7. pull gun out, wipe off with paper towels, put grips back on, DONE.
A. the sealed ammo can contains any mess/spills and prevents vapors from getting out.
B. ATF+acetone is basically the best penetrant/gunk dissolver there is.
C. the can+fluid can be used going forward to clean up a cruddy gun.
D. ATF+acetone are 2 components of "Eds Red". the other common components are kerosene and "odorless mineral spirits"
and (optionally, not really needed) lanolin. you can also get kero and mineral spirits at the HW store, etc.
You could perform the above soak with Eds red and it would be even better with dissolving different kinds of crud.
That's a smart move, but I have one really big problem here: I live in an apartment and my lease states that I should "abide by the following rules and regulations":
"No paints, oils, gasoline or any flammable or environmentally hazardous materials are permitted in the apartments or storage areas. Site manager will be informed of, and have approval over, oxygen tanks in units."
"Fireworks or explosives of any type are prohibited on the property. This includes apartment units, common areas, parking areas, lawns, entrances."
I have a can of Goof-Off in my supply closet, and some cooking spray in my place, but no one's ever kicked down my door to search for flammable materials. They did make an inspection of the premises and were pleased with it, earlier. Guess they didn't find the Goof Off.
I checked the regulations, and apparently smokeless powder is officially designated as a "Flammable", which still lies in the realm of hairspray and cooking oil.
How exactly do I ask my landlord about this? It looks to me like Kerosene and any other variant is out of the question.
Before you get too wound up thinking about a penetrating oil for this, take the side plate screws out and try hitting the grip frame with a hammer handle or something similar.
The sideplate is supposed to be tight, and is surprisingly weather proof. I have never seen one that wouldn't vibrate loose as long as the sideplate screws are out. As a matter of fact, when you reinstall it and realize when it is halfway down that you forgot to put the hammer block in, you will need to vibrate the side plate off.
Robert
I'm going to go against the grain here- leave the sideplate alone.
Your first post says the internals are sweet- leave them that way.
Use kroil or whatever penetrating oil you wish, then use compressed air in a can to blow it out( think can of air like for computers).
Then oil lightly with a good gun oil. Overdoing it with oil is bad too (drippy mess!).
Taking the sideplate off, someone has already mentioned, a piece will come out too. Then you'll be shopping for a smith to put it back together.
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I've managed to get the side plate off with no other trouble. I just bonked it in the right places for long enough and it came right off. Thank you for all the help!
Glad for you. Wasn't nearly as hard after having done it as it seemed to be huh?
The folks here know a lot of things. They will share that knowledge with fellow members and all is well most times......
These Two Videos were the best help for strategies to get the side plate off:
https://youtu.be/4ujyLn3lHBc
I had specifically used this technique to loosen everything out of the frame. Glad i was ready to take hold of the hammer block and put it somewhere safe...
https://youtu.be/NhUHVcVb_V0
Now look at it carefully as it doesn’t just drop back on.
The internals should be clean and have a coating of lubricant that you almost can’t see. I have a couple small paint brushes that I use for applying light oil.
I've wiped down the internals with a swabbing cloth that I drizzled some oil onto and applied it both inside and out to the side-plate, as well. I also put a drop of oil onto the interior surfaces and spread it around with another swabbing cloth.
I had noticed the small piece of metal on the top of the side place, inserted it gently and pressed down by hand, inserted the screws in the right places, and walked them in a little bit at a time to make sure the whole plate came down as flush as possible.
I've actually got it off on two occasions, one for just a looksie, and the other to clean an especially dirty spot on the hole between the hand and the cylinder.
With the front screw out of the side plate, have you figured out you can remove the yoke and cylinder. No need to remove the side plate.
Thankfully I already knew that. Figured it out when I first cleaned up the revolver for the first time On an unrelated note, is there a way to get the yoke off the frame with the cylinder still locked in place? If by some horrible measure the yoke screw disappeared (which it has not) will that yoke stay in place when the cylinder is closed?
Yoke and cylinder will stay put without the screw as long as the cylinder is locked in the frame. So if the screw fell out the gun would still fire in other words.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
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BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
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HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
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