Building a Garage

[Plate plinker]

in floor heat!

[Winger Ed.]

OK, the last thing I can think of:

We have a minor problem of flash floods & their run off waters here.
So in this neighborhood-- you need to consider the top deck height of your floor/pad.

Our city code calls for the top of a slab to be a minimum of 10 inches above the 'grade' or ground level.
Garages can be less, but I did mine at right at 10".

Rather than buying pad sand to put on it to get the height up without having a 8-9 inch or more pour-
The dirt from the overly deep and wide ditches went onto the pad and compacted.

With 2 x 10 form boards, it came out perfect for the height, and a 6" slab.
The form boards got reused in the top roof peak, some ceiling joists, and the frame beams over the garage door.

[10x]

Here winter and frost kill concrete pads.
Figure out where your frost line is in the ground.
Pour your footings below that.
Make sure that you have drainage around the footings- weeping tile - get rid of any groundwater.
use styro basement blocks to pour walls to get above surface.
Rough in any plumbing you want, some folks want a sump so they can sweep with a hose, put a cleanout catch reservoir in the drain if you do put in a sump. Make sure it is lower than the sump and the sump is always dry.
Some guys will rough in slab heating with plastic pipe for a boiler, or run galvanized ductwork under the slab for forced air.
Choose whether you want A 5" 6" or thicker slab. What weight are you going to put on it? A car? A D4 cat?
Wire in the slab is not enough, talk to any guy who pours pads and they can tell you if you need rebar or not.
I recommend rebar anchors from the walls into the slab.

Framing the garage is quick and easy. My friend Gary and I could frame, shingle, and side a 24' x 30' garage in under 16 hours - no mistakes, windows and doors installed, and the correct opening left for an overhead door.
Put a good vapor barrier under the siding, choose enough insulation,
Set up your electrical outlets for a workbench, and shop tools
15 amp breakers work for a work bench.
Shop tool like 20 amp breakers
Use a breaker box big enough to put 2 220 40 amp circuits in and at least 8 15 and 20 amp circuits.
wire each outlet top and bottom to its own breaker.
Yes it will cost more, But you will appreciate it later

[redhawk0]

I live in the northeast as well. So it's not uncommon to see 100* in summer and -20* in winter. For the summer months do yourself a favor and when you have the roof put on make sure it has a ridge vent. It will keep you from roasting your car. In the winter months heated would be nice to keep your battery from freezing. It's not an easy place to live sometimes....this past summer was brutal up here....we were close to 100* for quite a few days...makes me wonder what the other swing will be this winter....the average annual temp usually tries to balance itself out.

Anyway...if you have it poured now (I would)...sprinkle it with water after about 8-12 hours...then put plastic over it. It will cure slower and be more stable and hard. Once you enclose the garage...put a urethane floor sealant on it. It will be easier to clean up oil drops later than if it was on porous concrete.

redhawk

[lightman]

A lot depends on what you plan to use it for. Just to park a car or boat in or to also use as a work shop.

I like the idea suggesting putting an electrical 90 in the slab for future electrical service. I also like the suggestion of a taller and wider door. And by all means, put a vapor barrier in the slab.

I'm not a concrete man so I'm not really answering your questions about the slab. I would pour it now and not worry too much about it but thats just me.

[popper]

Depending on your soil, solo tube piers first, then the footings. Rebar in the corners where the wind load is. Powder coated steel framing seems to be more popular here, reduced sweating and no termite problems. For stick built still pre-made truss roof. Don't forget to figure snow load. Stub up for inside breaker box and 200A service. May never need it but long run with 100A will have a lot of voltage drop.

[MaryB]

I had them spec my rafters for worst case snow load here plus an extra 2,000 pounds to carry solar panels/solar hot water I want to put in for heat.

[Winger Ed.]

Something I've always done with contractors when the subjects of expense, and possible cost cutting came along.

I'd always ask them how they'd do it if they were building it for themselves, or their best friend.
Then I'd usually let the price fall accordingly where it did.

I always got straight up, honest answers, and never regretted asking the question.

[MaryB]

I didn't cost cut, I went the opposite way in fact... figured I am only going to do this once so do it right!

[shaune509]

Why has no one said to use L-bolt in the foundation wall over drilled in bolts? L-bolts hooker to rebar are not pulling out.
Shaune509

[Plate plinker]

Probably because they are not code. At least not here.

Why has no one said to use L-bolt in the foundation wall over drilled in bolts? L-bolts hooker to rebar are not pulling out.
Shaune509

[jonp]

Started clearing land to build a garage. Looking for advice and tips from anyone who has built a garage. What would you do differently etc if you were to do it again. My plan is to get the land cleared and have the excavation done and get a foundation poured before winter and then build the garage in spring next year. I live in the northeast so looking for input on that idea. Is it ok to do the foundation now and build in the spring or should it all be done at the same time? Thanks in advance for hints tips and suggestions.

In northern VT I've known many foundations poured and let sit to do in the spring. Just do it now and let it dry before freezing weather and I'd cover the foundation or footings over the winter but I've seen them just sit out in the weather. I'd not do that. Make sure you put it under the frost line. In my area that's over 4ft down.

If your doing a slab I highly recommend along with the others a moisture barrier and insulation under it.

[Winger Ed.]

Why has no one said to use L-bolt in the foundation wall over drilled in bolts? L-bolts hooker to rebar are not pulling out.
Shaune509

They've sort of been obsoleted out.

I've heard its not always easy to keep them standing up straight if you put them into the concrete too soon.
And If they're pushed in too late, they move all the rocks out of the way and are weak, they're hard to align right,
and can be hard to stand up straight.

Then you have to wrestle with the sole board to get it over them correctly.
Also, you can get lumps & bumps trying to smooth the pour around and in between them.

As quick as it is to drill holes & put in a wedge anchor-- that's cheaper,
or ram set nail over a smooth surface--- nobody uses them any more.

[hawkenhunter50]

Lots of good info and suggestions. I appreciate all the ideas. Definitely a lot of help, thanks.

[country gent]

I used chemical anchors drill hole drop tube in add stud and spin for 56 secs to minute come back in an hour or so and set tight.

Something interesting Ive read several places is they are still monitoring the concrete in Hoover dam as its still curing yet.

[Winger Ed.]

Ive read several places is they are still monitoring the concrete in Hoover dam as its still curing yet.

I'd heard years ago it kept curing for 40 years. I guess its even longer than that.

Hoover dam had some unique issues. The concrete was so thick that as it cured, the heat it generated was a problem.
As it was being poured, they had radiator like tubes in it with cold water circulating to pull off some of the heat.

[Geezer in NH]

When you have two vehicles build a 3 bay, if you have 3 vehicles build a 4 bay. 3 bay have 2 doors one wide one normal, in a 4 bay have 2 doors both wide.

Use steel support beams for the doors and the floor to the attic no columns in the way that way. That way you may get to use 1 bay for your vehicle during the winter. Heated garages in NE Really rot the vehicle out fast IMHO

[john.k]

I'm (hoping) to get a 30x50 shed in my yard....Ive already paid a fortune for prelims ,but still havent got council approval........the council are ultra suspicious of commercial activities /noise in residential areas.......I all ready had to make a legal notarised deposition about usage and access,and the shed company seem to have lost it.There is a private certifier system here ,acts for the council ,once its certified ,its ok to go ahead.....There will be little or no change from $50k by the time its finished.( Oz pesos)

[Lloyd Smale]

My advice. Figure out the size you need then double it. That will do for about 5 years until you run out of space and need to build another.

[10-x]

Check you Local NEC regulations on building/ garages detached from house. Here every 120VAC receptacle in detached garage/ building has to be GFI. New construction homes with attached garages have to have them in all garage receptacles. There used to be a 8’ rule it receptacle was 8’ from floor, no GFI, no more. Adding a bath ect may change rules??? Agree 100% to build at least 2 times the size you Know think you will need. Big plus on the Hilti chemical anchors, King Kong cant pull them out.