Getting started with reloading for my S&W Model 10-5?

[VariableRecall]

If you have a rubber mallet, don't ask us, tell us... whether or not it worked

I'll pick up a rubber mallet next time I go shopping and try it out. Pretty busy this week, to be honest.

[VariableRecall]

Super quick question, are CCI primers in the .500 caliber size is the standard for 38 Special? I don't want to purchase a primer size that is not going to be compatible.

[fcvan]

Super quick question, are CCI primers in the .500 caliber size is the standard for 38 Special? I don't want to purchase a primer size that is not going to be compatible.

CCI Primers marked #500 (not .500) are Small Pistol Primers. Their actual diameter is .177, yes BB size. Frank

[VariableRecall]

CCI Primers marked #500 (not .500) are Small Pistol Primers. Their actual diameter is .177, yes BB size. Frank

Thanks! I'll be sure to look for those, then!

[Bazoo]

You need to read the section in the manual marked "primers". It explains all about primers, and includes a chart of common primers and their sizes.

[VariableRecall]

OK! I've got myself a Rubber Mallet, and it turns out it does quiet the hammer blows a good deal! What worked best for me is bracing the mallet shaft on a chair or something else solid, and taking a swing at it with the puller.

Concrete + Mallet works best, making nice and quiet and you can wallop with it as hard as you need to. I'm already causing a great deal of damage the the mallet's face but it was like $3 and I just wanted to prove a theory.

I've managed to pull two of the brass/bullet combinations that I've created and from the looks of it, the reason why the brass has been tough to pull is that the crimp is set a smidge high. Keep in mind that this is happening when my own COL is a tiny bit higher than what is recommended in my current load data.

One of the bullets I've pulled for example.
https://imgur.com/qeLMBa3

Speaking of that, I've got an official Lee reloading guide on its way now. It should be arriving by the middle of next week.

[Bazoo]

The lee manual is okay but the Lyman is much better in my opinion.

Stop worrying about overall length, crimp in the crimp groove. You can't crimp on a driving band. You want the case mouth at the top of the crimp groove. The crimp groove and case length determines your overall length.

You can't match overall length most of the time even with a bullet of known design and data for that specific bullet. Reason is a bullet mold made in 2000 will make a bullet of slightly different dimensions than a mold made in 1980.

[JimB..]

You are correct, and listen to Bazoo.

For a revolver the COL is not as critical as it is for an auto loader.

It is important not to make the COL shorter than the book recipe. Pressure is determine by the amount of powder and the amount of space inside the cartridge. If you push the bullet down too far (a few .001” won’t matter, but .1” will) you’ll get more pressure than expected. Fortunately, you need to seat less deeply, so that’s less pressure and a very safe deviation from the recipe.

Make sense?

[VariableRecall]

It is important not to make the COL shorter than the book recipe. Pressure is determine by the amount of powder and the amount of space inside the cartridge. If you push the bullet down too far (a few .001” won’t matter, but .1” will) you’ll get more pressure than expected. Fortunately, you need to seat less deeply, so that’s less pressure and a very safe deviation from the recipe.

Make sense?

It makes sense. I'm just very glad that this missed crimp was applied to four un-primed cases and not a large portion of the donated brass with primers in them. I'd assume that the bullets won't need as much whacking when the brass is properly set into the crimp groove and not the smidge above it. Check the picture link for what I'm talking about. Either way, the COL will be a teeny bit longer, but that's far better than too shallow of an overall length.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Would be smart to make certain that the longer COL loads will fit in your cylinder, of course. Just stating the obvious,I know

[VariableRecall]

Would be smart to make certain that the longer COL loads will fit in your cylinder, of course. Just stating the obvious,I know

Would inserting a cartridge in question into the cylinder (with the cylinder off the yoke to keep it away from that hammer), laying it flat, and seeing if it pokes out the top be a reasonable strategy?

[JimB..]

Would inserting a cartridge in question into the cylinder (with the cylinder off the yoke to keep it away from that hammer), laying it flat, and seeing if it pokes out the top be a reasonable strategy?

No need to remove the cylinder from the gun, just open it and drop one in. It should drop all the way in and not poke out the front. Then turn the gun up and it’ll likely fall out, if not use the ejector.

[VariableRecall]

No need to remove the cylinder from the gun, just open it and drop one in. It should drop all the way in and not poke out the front. Then turn the gun up and it’ll likely fall out, if not use the ejector.

Sounds Good. Things are pretty busy but when I'll get the chance I'll start to get familiarized with the Lee Precision Scale and my Digital scale, getting a better idea of what 3.6 grains of Win 231 actually looks like. I'd assume that's just about a hefty pinch's worth of powder. I've yet to pop open it myself.

[JimB..]

I suggest that you make yourself a gauge to quickly see when a case is properly charged. The most common charging errors in my experience are either failing to charge a case, or charging it twice, it is easy to avoid both of these, and failing that to identify it.

Personally I prefer Bazoo’s approach of charging the case and setting a bullet before you set it down, but if that doesn’t work for you here’s a way to check all the cases in a block.

Get a piece of wooden dowel that’s just small enough to slip into a case. Using a fired case with the primer still in it drop the dowel into the case and draw or cut a line on the dowel at the length of the case. Now put 3.6g of w231 in the case, drop in the dowel (Don’t pound it) and draw/cut another ring on the dowel. Now put another 3.6g of w231 in the case and cut/draw a final ring. Dump the powder back into the jug.

Now when you drop this dowel into a case you’ll know with confidence that you’ve charged the case but not double charged it.

Case length varies a little, so you won’t always hit the middle line perfectly, that’s okay, you’re looking for gross errors.

One advantage of learning to load on a single stage is that it’s easy to take a case and dump the charge back onto the scale to check it. If it’s right, then pour it back into the case. Nobody will make fun of you for rechecking weights a lot when you first start...we all cringed a little when we made and fired our first round.

[VariableRecall]

I suggest that you make yourself a gauge to quickly see when a case is properly charged. The most common charging errors in my experience are either failing to charge a case, or charging it twice, it is easy to avoid both of these, and failing that to identify it.

Personally I prefer Bazoo’s approach of charging the case and setting a bullet before you set it down, but if that doesn’t work for you here’s a way to check all the cases in a block.

Get a piece of wooden dowel that’s just small enough to slip into a case. Using a fired case with the primer still in it drop the dowel into the case and draw or cut a line on the dowel at the length of the case. Now put 3.6g of w231 in the case, drop in the dowel (Don’t pound it) and draw/cut another ring on the dowel. Now put another 3.6g of w231 in the case and cut/draw a final ring. Dump the powder back into the jug.

Now when you drop this dowel into a case you’ll know with confidence that you’ve charged the case but not double charged it.

Case length varies a little, so you won’t always hit the middle line perfectly, that’s okay, you’re looking for gross errors.

One advantage of learning to load on a single stage is that it’s easy to take a case and dump the charge back onto the scale to check it. If it’s right, then pour it back into the case. Nobody will make fun of you for rechecking weights a lot when you first start...we all cringed a little when we made and fired our first round.

Thanks for getting the details down for the dowel technique! I think a pencil or a disused pen will do just fine for the job. Perhaps a strip of painter's tape above the line would provide a clear indication that the case is significantly under or over-charged.

[JimB..]

Thanks for getting the details down for the dowel technique! I think a pencil or a disused pen will do just fine for the job. Perhaps a strip of painter's tape above the line would provide a clear indication that the case is significantly under or over-charged.

A pencil would be fine, you want something flat on the end, so probably not a pen. I’ll leave coloring to you, I’m not that creative, but maybe a little red below the middle line because an overcharge is the more critical error.

[VariableRecall]

A pencil would be fine, you want something flat on the end, so probably not a pen. I’ll leave coloring to you, I’m not that creative, but maybe a little red below the middle line because an overcharge is the more critical error.

Understood! It always pays to be careful with what I'm doing here.

[Mr_Sheesh]

Friend paints the top part of his checking tool green & the "double charge" part red, an option for you. I just am very systematic & never had issues, but I am OCD about charging carefully & no visitors when doing it.

[VariableRecall]

Friend paints the top part of his checking tool green & the "double charge" part red, an option for you. I just am very systematic & never had issues, but I am OCD about charging carefully & no visitors when doing it.

That's a good tip! Thank you!

[Bazoo]

I start with my brass in a Tupperware. I pick one up and charge it either with dipper or powder measure, then place it in a loading block. I check them with a flashlight. No reason to use a dowel or pencil in my mind.

It'll do you well to do a little experiment, charge 5, with one being double. Either in a loading block or lined up on the table, look with your light and you will spot it easily. Dump all 5 back.