Boolits prior to sizing. Axalta Powder Coating (eBay). Single coat, dry tumble. 15 mins @ 380. Dumped into a wire tray, will probably stand them up next time for cleaner and uniform coating.
Tested the PC, smashed with a hammer 5 times on top of an anvil. Pretty good bond, no significant chipping.
Post-sizing. I don't think any paint came off but if some did then it was very minimal.
Lost 3 rounds to the case gauge, probably had some cases with the "Glock bulge". Otherwise they look good.
356-124-2R mold
Mixed range brass
4.0gr Universal
Federal SMPP
1.125 Average COL
Will be testing soon, I hope the accuracy is acceptable at least for plinking. Thanks everyone for the feedback.
Your lost now, the bug has you and it will only get worse. Before long you will have more molds in sizes you don't have guns for, then it's dies, then a shell holder and finally brass. Then you will need a 45-70 1874 Sharps so you can use them and are willing to wait 2 years after ordering it. All cause you got that $50.00 mould. So welcome aboard and your boolits will shoot just fine.
Steve,
Life Member NRA
Colorado Rifle Club member
Rocky Mtn Gun Owners member
NAGR member
that's quite the score of a nice clean alloy. got me wondering exactly what an isocore is composed of. but 9mm only shoots at about a max velocity of 1200fps, and power coating you should be good to go for a long time.
In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.
OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
EVERYONE!
Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.
Congrats on the good looking bullets and congrats on scoring more lead. With fewer lead wheel weights out there having a source of lead is a huge benefit.
How’d you melt form the cores into ingots?
I put the smaller, upper part of the core into the pot, melt it, then slowly introduce the rest of the core into the alloy. I also applied heat towards the sides of the core while the bottom is melting using a propane torch. Took about 10 mins for the whole thing to start melting consistently.
Did a quick range trip this afternoon to test the rounds. I think I got lucky on this one, maybe I don't have to melt down all the boolits I casted yesterday lol. Target at 15ft, shot out of a Canik TP9SA Mod 2. Yes, my sights are off and I need to get it adjusted.
I'm calling my first try a success. Thanks to the resources on this site and to everyone who chimed in and gave their 2 cents
Last edited by diyahbeetuz; 09-15-2020 at 01:49 AM.
I started by using COWW that I got locally from a fellow caster. I then bought 55# of ISO core and found it to be just as good as the COWW in my 9mm and a few other calibers.
I actually just go another #165 pounds of small ISO canisters from my source , as it works great. the canisters are bare(vs painted),so there is virtually no contamination. So little in fact I typically melt the canisters right in my pot and start casting . I will certainly get another couple hundred pounds when he has more.
Great score on that and for a great price as well. Should keep you shooting for a few months at least !! LOL
great job for first time for sure !!
hard for me to tell looking at the pictures if that is really dirt in there. Are you able to pick anything out, or are they just pits that reflect shadow differently then the rest of the bollit ?? Kinda looks like dings or dents from say dropping a hot bullet on another.
As others noted, quite a few inclusions, plus never been a fan of TL designs. Try fluxing with sawdust. Stir the casting pot with a wooden stick every time you add metal.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
Have you weighed them? You might weigh 20 of them & see what kind of an average & standard deviation you come up with. It depends on the use you put them to, but if you get weight variations over about 3%, it can affect accuracy more than you like. Of course, this depends on application and distances.
For in much wisdom is much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. Ecclesiastes 1:18
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Carpe SCOTCH!
I would just recommend sawdust flux for in the big pot making ingots, nothing but clean lead in the casting pot. Lead going into casting will develop skim of dross from oxidation. In casting pot a small bit of wax from time to time and a small household table spoon to skim should be all that is needed there.
There has been some discussion on PC temperatures. I think 400* rather than 380* is the more generally advised temperature to use. You should be able to set the bullet on it's base and pound it to half height without any PC coming off. Bullet laid on it's side again should be able to pound to half thickness without PC coming off. Hammer strike can "thin" it some, even enough to see lead but no flaking or peeling.
PC lube is tough enough that it allows use of softer alloys for a given load. E.G. For 38/357 I might use 50/50 mix of WW & lead BHN of around 10.5 with PC that works fine. Bullet expands into rifling of barrel well (obturation) in the short time it is in barrel. For a hotter load I might want to go WW+tin for a BHN of around 12. Or Lyman #2 if I know my bullet size is a good fit for the barrel.
Softer lead will provide more obturation (marshmallow kicked in the butt expands, lead does too, just not as much) and yield potentially a better fit to the rifling. Less expensive alloy used is a bonus.
You should contact member BNE who for a pound of lead and a pea sized sample will provide an XRF analysis of the alloy. Then you will know exactly what you have there in good supply. My own guess is you have alloy suitable for cutting with some plain lead and probably don't need more tin. You might want to drill a sample and melt to send in to BNE as well as a sample from an ingot. Just to confirm you ingot making isn't stripping excessive tin out.
Copper is nice for hollow points, supposed to help prevent them from fragmenting. More an issue for hunters who want that bullet mass to stay together rather than become a bunch of little pieces lacking penetration.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...PC-long-enough
Post on baking PC long enough. There is some debate and discussion. I will say I once left some in a touch too long, alloys melt at lower temps than plain lead. These were Lyman #2 I made bullets for shooting around corners, at least that is what I tell people who saw the slumped over bullets.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
You know you've crossed over, when you call the winter pothole season, "wheel weight season".
Welcome aboard, new caster Satisfying, isn't it?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |