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Thread: Dykem substitute

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Dykem substitute

    I'm going to fix up some mold blocks and sprue plates, sanding them for a better fit. Went to the local Ace Hardware, and nobody there (went through five sets of puzzled looks and "never heard of it"'s) knew what Dykem Blue or lay out fluid were.

    Will a Magic Marker do?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Local machine shop would know where to find it locally or do a google search like this looks like fastenal grainger and harbor freight has it online cant say if they actually stock it or not. I dont see why a permanent marker wouldnt do just use isopropyl alcohol to clean up
    Those who would trade freedom for safety deserves neither and will lose both

  3. #3
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    winelover's Avatar
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    For small jobs, a Sharpie permanent marker. Use them to coat a dummy round, to check the engagement on the lands.

    Winelover

  4. #4
    Boolit Master




    EMC45's Avatar
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    Get a fat "Magnum" sharpie with the aluminum body. Make broad strokes to darken and scratch/scribe/sand to your hearts content.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Most tool supplies will have it theres a better one we had at work something laboratories. I dried quicker and thinner coating. You can order it online from most supply places.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Big Magic Marker is what I use now , the bigger the area you want to cover the bigger tip the marker needs to have ...don't get no fine point sharpie .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  7. #7
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    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    I use a big blue Sharpie. The tip draws a line at least 3/8 inch wide. Works great.

  8. #8
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    I don't know where you are located; but I have seen Dykem at the local O'Reilly auto parts store, in the welding supply section.

    Robert

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Amazon has if all else fails.

    I use magic markers, anyway.
    Cognitive Dissident

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub mrbigsteel's Avatar
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    Big sharpie. Dykem is on Amazon and Ebay if you prefer it.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks, folks. I was just suprised that the hardware folks had no idea what I was asking for. I mean, I'm a white collar kind of guy who's never seen the inside of a professional machine shop and I've heard of it, but these supposedly knowledgeable grey beards hadn't.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Use a smoky oil lamp to soot the pieces. Or a carbide lamp.

    Kevin
    Knowledge I take to my grave is wasted.

    I prefer to use cartridges born before I was.

    Success doesn't make me happy, being happy is what allows me to be successful.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I've had very good performance using green/blue/black broad felt tip "Dry-Erase" markers from Walmart, etc. They're inexpensive, much easier to find than Dykem and works much better than any permanent markers for my "machinist" needs. And it wipes away without using solvents.

  14. #14
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I've had good luck with a big fat sharpie too.

    If there is any issue at all is they can sometimes 'soak in' and stain, or leave a ghost on brass or Aluminum.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used several agents to color metals for lay out. I have used dykem the something laboratories, markers ( rubs off easily), Both red and blue. Dykem 109 for spotting in. The best were common cold blue, made a nice surface and lightly scribed lines showed very well in it. The other was a liquid we called blue victor You lightly coated the steel and came back 15 mins later to a very fine shallow rust in a nice even light brown color. A very light wipe of oil to stop it. Light scribed lines showed good. The draw back to this was the fumes would also rust any tools around it. Both were durable to handling and working. Stood up well to oils and solvents.

    The 109 was a spotting ink that showed bearing points well but it never dries and gets everywhere. Used for hand scrapping and fitting a thin coat will produce closer surfaces than grinding can with hills and valleys to hold oil.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    NAPA,, if not on the shelf, they can get it in a day or two..
    If you have a decent NAPA nearby.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    When intricate lay outs were more common it use to be thought funny to at some point put an ounce or 2 of solvent in the air line the guy was using. when he blew the piece off it erased all his work. Ive done layout for gauges that were 5-6 hours of work on the table. Always gave the air fun a quick blast at the floor first. Saved condensation or the jokers ruining work.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check