Heavy Resistance to Sizing After Powder Coatingl

[memtb]

Thanks to all for all of your insight and good information. I’ve learned quite a bit during this dilemma and through your help!

Now.....to put some of these powder coated Bullets to good use! memtb

[popper]

Polish (cleaning ) the Lee sizer is good idea. Keep on lubing the PCd boolits - doesn't take much. I use BLL (without mineral spirits!). Once you scrape a little PC off a boolit, the rest will scrape too. I size soon after casting, PC when I get around to it. I've gotten a few stuck in the sizer. If it takes that much pressure, the boolit is way distorted anyway. I did use one-shot in a baggie to lube some for sizing and then PCd, it did work OK (asbbt) but prefer not to go that way. Didn't wash them and coating was poor but they shot just OK.

[bmortell]

i used to have heavy resistance during seating. i had described it as trying to smoothly slide rubber on glass. i used to lightly lube them so they would seat easily then later i started pin tumbling cases and did them in corn cob with wax after so my cases weren't grippy to bare pc anymore.
i don't know if this type is what anyone here is referring to as resistance but pc isn't slick against all surfaces apparently, against some things it don't wanna move.

[Carrier]

Quenched right out of mold.....wait 2 years.....powder coat....from oven immediately to cold water!

On a slightly different scenario.... I powder coated my bullets for my .45-70 yesterday, they’re “mic’ing- out” around . 464”....my die is .459”. These may be a challenge! memtb

The 45/70 405 and 500 grain bullets for my Trapdoor are the same as you are seeing and they slide right through either a .459 and a .460 Lee sizer dies like crap through a goose. They are a 30 to 1 lead/ tin mix.

[Dragonheart]

I’ll probably get flamed for this, but when I run into a pc’d batch that has heavy resistance, I spray a light coating of Hornady One Shot case lube on the batch, then size them. They go through slicker than a whistle! I use a Star sizer & let them sit for at least a day after sizing before loading them. The Hornady case lube doesn’t affect the powder or primers so they say & I haven’t run into any problems.

Read #11 post.

[RP]

I may have missed the answer but you stated you cleaned all the lube out of you sizer die is the die smooth or maybe since its been sitting awhile has gotten a little rust ? Nice smooth surface makes a difference just thinking out loud.

[memtb]

RP, Thanks! That would be a distinct possibility, in a different scenario. However, this was a new sizing die, as I’ve just started with the 0.459” bullets. The die still had the factory light oil on it. I cleaned it, making sure that it was free of any machining debris.

However, your post may have provided the answer....The die was clean....maybe too clean. This was “very” likely the problem! I think that I’ll be a little embarrassed and perhaps a bit angry now! memtb

[Huskerguy]

I have run into this but for a different reason. When I first got into PCing I read that many people sized first, PCed and then sized again. I tried that for some 38 SWC using a Lee sizer at .358 and no problem. I eventually quit doing that and went to coating and then sizing as soon as possible before the powder became harder.

I was helping a friend with some bullets and we were sizing before PC and we kept getting bullets stuck. Lee doesn't recommend sizing with nothing on the bullets as the lead will build up on the die, makes sense. After battling getting that stuck bullet out of the Lee sizers, I didn't try that again. If the mold is dropping way too big, I would PC and then size twice if it is that drastic. Of course then you would need two different sizers.

My experience is the Lee sizers tend to run a little small. They will custom size them or you can send yours in and they will modify it to get exactly what you want. I have tried a dowel and some fine paper with not much luck so far. Need to get back to to that project.

[Dragonheart]

If you want to polish out a die use green compound it will remove fine scratches will bring out a high shine, follow up up with yellow and it will go to mirror shine. If you want to open a die up as much as several thousands spin it on a lathe and use diamond paste on a wood dowel.

[gnappi]

I like sizing first in my star sizer... I' m lefty and can "feel" the extra resistance of as cast and pc'd later with my weaker right arm. I found the specially made PC only shorter dies from Magna and hope they will be all they claim to be.

[memtb]

gnappi, I don’t have a Star Sizer, and I’m starting to think that I may be in the minority. Once you’ve “critiqued” those Magna dies, give us your opinion .....inquiring minds! memtb

[DocSavage]

Long before PC back in the 80s I had problems sizing a Lyman 158 gr 357 mag semi wadcutter,Lyman sizer and die. Snapped the handle off the sizer. Combo of undersize die and monotype. Bought the equipment off a buddy who married an Engish woman and moved to Great Britain. Die was marked .358 and was .355 trying to size bullets that were .359 as cast. Thought I was going to snap the sizer off the bench.

[dverna]

Do not beat yourself up! We learn from our mistakes.

I have learned not to force things after breading a few items. I do not have a lot of patience and that is not a good thing when reloading or working with machines. Now, it I need to force something, I stop and try to figure out what the heck is going on.

[Dragonheart]

I can't say I have noticed any extra effort needed when I size, of course I use my right index finger to push the button mainly because it is most convenient.

[gnappi]

gnappi, I don’t have a Star Sizer, and I’m starting to think that I may be in the minority. Once you’ve “critiqued” those Magna dies, give us your opinion .....inquiring minds! memtb

Well, I am holding off going into production with the new .401 die. My Mitutoyo Vernier and micrometer (not toys, machine shop grade instruments) both show they size to .400". I'm going to call them tomorrow.

[memtb]

Well, I am holding off going into production with the new .401 die. My Mitutoyo Vernier and micrometer (not toys, machine shop grade instruments) both show they size to .400". I'm going to call them tomorrow.

That would be pretty disappointing, you purchase what you think to be precision, quality dies...and they’re not as advertised. Granted, it’s only 0.001”, but that’s “not” what you wanted! memtb

[gnappi]

That would be pretty disappointing, you purchase what you think to be precision, quality dies...and they’re not as advertised. Granted, it’s only 0.001”, but that’s “not” what you wanted! memtb

Well, this was bothering me a LOT so before calling I removed the .401 die, installed my .355, .357 and .358 genuine Star dies, and I'd NEVER have believed it but all of them measure .001" smaller than they're marked. So, I can no longer trust my Mitutoyo gauges, or I can build in a +.001" fudge factor or buy new.

[memtb]

gnappi, while not the perfect scenario....at least you have consistency! memtb

[Dragonheart]

Well, this was bothering me a LOT so before calling I removed the .401 die, installed my .355, .357 and .358 genuine Star dies, and I'd NEVER have believed it but all of them measure .001" smaller than they're marked. So, I can no longer trust my Mitutoyo gauges, or I can build in a +.001" fudge factor or buy new.

Since lead has virtually no springback, any would have to be attributed to other elements, but in all I don't think anyone else has reported any problems with the typical alloys. I use Starrett Micrometers, but I too have always believed the Mitutoyo to produce quality gauges, but any gauge can be off. I also have believed Star to make accurate dies, so? You might want to check your micrometer with an end bar: Mitutoyo 167-141 Μm Standard Bar 1" off Amazon for about $21 or anything else with a known value.

[gnappi]

Good idea