what is the appx. hardness of "hard" shot. i can scrape up a hundred + lbs at my local trap club; and i can melt it.
what is the appx. hardness of "hard" shot. i can scrape up a hundred + lbs at my local trap club; and i can melt it.
Search the threads, but quick answer is it has little to no tin. Therefore it will not cast well without some blending. Guessing on composition it would be around 95/5/0. I mix reclaim 50:50 with plain lead and add tin to get 96/2/2 from the alloy calculator. The plain lead makes it easier to melt the reclaim shot.
If it is new shot, sell it and buy alloy, I just paid 39$ per bag for new shot. That’s a very good price as well, reclaim is worth about a dollar a pound.
“You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos
By "scrape up", I think he means reclaim it from the downrange fallout area.
My assumption as well, then I remembered a friend got over 75 lbs of mixed 8 and 9 by scraping it off the basement floor of a house they were paid to clean! All from ratted bags that were left behind, no telling!
“You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos
Lead and Antimony. No tin to speak of. Not really good for Bullets unless mixed with other metals.
Cast balls for muzzleloaders? Maybe too hard i dont know
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Probably would be a bit hard....you'd have to test it but most shot is cast hard to keep it's spherical shape (thus the antimony) and pattern better.
I wouldn't call it useless though...it's certainly good metal as an additive to other metal for antimony/hardness of someone is looking for that.
Muzzle stuffers typically want as dead soft as they can get....pure being awesome. Pure plus a hint...a sniff of tin being ideal. That'll help roundballs start in tight patch applications, obturate better and deform well on game.
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You can probably figure the shot you're getting has antimony in the range of 2-3%, add a bit of tin and it will make good bullets. If it is badly oxidized it can be hard to melt.
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Usually includes some arsenic as well. The above table surprises me. I have found it to be too hard for most of my uses so I use it to alloy with pure lead to make excellent rifle boolits (pistol bolts as well).
My favorite rifle alloy is 60% pure plus about 38% shot then add extra tin.
most bird shot is close to pure with a smide of tin and maybe some arsnic. Magnum or chilled shot usually has some atimony in it. i reclaimed LOTS of it and my tester usually mixed shot somewhere between pure and ww. Usually closer to pure. The shot as shot is usually a tad higher in hardenss they what you will recover because most shot makers if not all of the drop the molten shot into water.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |