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Thread: Hollow Point Casting Technique

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy rugerman1's Avatar
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    Question Hollow Point Casting Technique

    A little while back I bought a 454484 mould off of a friend here at CB and had Buckshot hollow point it:

    My first results were dismal and I decided I needed to add a little tin.So my next batch,I added about 1% tin to my WW+range scrap alloy.I cast these up today"


    The mould was throughly cleaned and up to temperature,but I was still having trouble getting "perfect" boolits.I varied my casting technique as far as speed of production & pin removal timing.
    What do you find works best for your hollow point casting?
    Appalachian American Clinging to my bible,my guns and my H&G moulds

  2. #2
    Cast Boolits Founder/B.O.B.

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    I'd sure like to see some specific tips!
    Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.

    Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.

    http://www.cafepress.com/castboolits

    castboolits@gmail.com

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master



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    rugerman1,

    In all probablity its the HP "pin" that's too cool. A good HP nose with a too cool pin is impossible regardless of how proper the mould temp is.

    I've been known to keep the pin near (not in) the flame of a propane torch set with a low flame.

    Rick
    "The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

    "Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

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  4. #4
    Boolit Mold Pavomesa's Avatar
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    I agree with Cbrick and for a pin that large, the situation is increased. I've been known to just stick the pin in the molten lead for a ten count and then wipe it off and start casting. This method will guarantee your pin is about the same temp as your mold.

    However, even though some of those bullets aren't cosmetically perfect, I'll bet they shoot DANG GOOD.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy rugerman1's Avatar
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    Question

    Rick,
    I was thinking of using a sterno can.What flame does sterno give off?
    Appalachian American Clinging to my bible,my guns and my H&G moulds

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy

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    I have had more success with a 257 cal mould done by Buckshot running the lead hotter than usual. No thermometer here. I just trial and error until I get good nose fill out. Mine is a spire point and can be finicky(SP).

    A 311 291 HP and a 358156 HP are run the same way and I like the results. I use WW w/ a little linotype melted in for these two and I have been using pure linotype in the 257 mould. With pure linotype, I flux a bit more often, especially when the bullet noses go to pot.

    I think I got an image attached to this to show the final outcome of the 257. It is not the best image, but i am still trying to get the hang of the camera.

    Do not know if this is specific enough 45NUT, but best I can do at this time and place. I have found that I must run HP's hotter than the other moulds. But I am Not an expert, I am still learning that is why I do not post too often.

    Keep trying Rugerman1, best advice I saw here one time was "do not be afraid of mistakes, they can be remelted"
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    First off, you'll never get completely round, perfectly formed, circular cavities with HP moulds and I've cast a bunch.

    Your mould is getting plenty hot...in fact too hot from the looks of the bands not completely filled out. I'd slow down some until you get good, filled out bands.

    I'd also bevel the top where the mould halves come together just to insure complete venting.

    As I mentioned, you seldom get perfect cavities with HPs...especially after sizing. That's why we've developed the "nosepicker" TP. Basically, this is a TP with a pin of a diameter that fits inside the cavity (very tightly but not too tight). This only has to be maybe 1/8" long.

    This TP accomplishes two things. First, it centers the bullet and second, it opens the cavity and bumps it to a slightly concave and perfectly round shape and eliminates any flaws in the cavity/nose since there is always a slight taper at the base of the TP pin.

    Very easily made from round aluminum stock using a electruc drill to spin the stock and a file as a cutter. Maybe a 15 minute job./beagle
    diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    SOMETIMES a pin has cutting fluid ,that has lard in it. Lard & suflur draw heat out of the tool,and are hard to clean. Try alcohol some heat lead pencil.Thats what I did when I made a howelod point for a Lyman .357 double cast 2 peace mold j358624A took a long time and a lot of cleaning,Your bloots look good. Good job Buckshot. nemo

  9. #9
    Boolit Master dakotashooter2's Avatar
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    That HP seems exceptionally deep. Shallowing it a bit may help. When I remove the pin I usually rest it on the top lip of the pot (the tip under the spout arm) and it generally stays just the right temp. You don't want it too hot either or the cavity will distort when you remove it.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Those that recommend casting HP's at a higher heat said the same thing I did. Except for a higher pot or higher mould temp simply run the pin hotter. I agree, those bullets look like they cast plenty hot. All of the wrinkles are at the pin, its the pin thats too cool.

    Never tried sterno and don't know how hot the flame is but it sounds like a good idea to try.

    Rick
    "The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

    "Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

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  11. #11
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    thats awesome i want one for my .45 acp. maybe ill get a 230 gr rn and have it done. -chris

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master



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    colbyjack, then you'll love this:

    Lyman 45 cal Devastaor HP 200 gr
    "The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

    "Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master Glen's Avatar
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    To get good high-quality HPs, I have found that it helps to do the following:

    1. Cast hot (about 50 degrees warmer than normal)
    2. Cast fast (2 pours a minute is good, 3 if I'm really cookin')
    3. Strike the sprue earlier than normal (you've got a heat sinc cooling the bullet in the HP pin so the bullet will solidify sooner than what the sprue tells you)
    4. Do NOT inspect bullets as you're casting (this just slows you down and lets the pin cool off)

    Just cast fast, and spend as little time as possible with the HP pin outside of the blocks.
    Glen

  14. #14
    Boolit Mold Pavomesa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dakotashooter2 View Post
    That HP seems exceptionally deep. Shallowing it a bit may help. When I remove the pin I usually rest it on the top lip of the pot (the tip under the spout arm) and it generally stays just the right temp. You don't want it too hot either or the cavity will distort when you remove it.

    No, the tip is the right depth. It should go back about about 2/3 of the way. Look at any Lyman HP mold and you'll see they all run deep.

    Everyone is making something really hard out of this simple issue. Just heat the damn HP plug to the lead temp by sticking in into the molten metal for a few seconds and then cast away. If you cast bullets fast like I do, the mold and HP plug will stay the same of nearly same temp and all will work perfectly. I've made thousands of them this way with no problems.

    Cranking your lead up to higher than normal temps just means your mold is going to get too hot, too fast and start producing frosted bullets. (Another bad idea)

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I cast many great looking Hollow points by altering my casting procedure alot;
    a) it is the only bullet I cast that i use a bottom pour
    b) turn up the heat
    c) remove bullet from mold with the pin still in it, the very last thing you do is pull bullet(hot) off pin and quickly return pin to mold and pour, you can actually take your time until you pull the pin from the hot bullet...oh and one other tip...wear gloves.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I am with Glen on this one. Although I increase the temp a bit it is the speed that makes the difference for me! Keep that pin hot by casting as fast as you can. For me a bored out RCBS ladle is the only way to cast HP bullets ! I pour over the pot with plenty of excess alloy flowing off the mould. Do not even look at the bullets once you start getting good ones.

    Jerry

    These are from moulds also modified by Buckshot.



    S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy rugerman1's Avatar
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    Great boolits and pics Jerry
    Today,I cast by using my no-so-instant-start propane torch to heat the pin.Better than yesterday's effort,but not as good as I want:

    I picked up some sterno and another propane torch at china-mart today to try out next time.I want to make a mount so I can set the pin on it and be heated during the boolit removal step.
    I cast up a few Lee 41 TL's after I got tired of fighting the propane torch,ain't 6-cavs wonderful!
    Appalachian American Clinging to my bible,my guns and my H&G moulds

  18. #18
    Boolit Master fourarmed's Avatar
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    Another thing I find helps is to force feed the alloy. Use a dipper or press the sprue plate tightly against the pour spout, and hold the feed open for several seconds.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Glen's Avatar
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    Oooohhh GLL, those are PURDY!
    Glen

  20. #20
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    Nice bullets GLL. An easy way to keep the pin hot is a wire loop over the lead pot. When you pull it set it in the alloy. It will never be overheated and it makes for fast casting. Gianni
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check