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Thread: Hollow Point Casting Technique

  1. #61
    Boolit Man knobster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maximilian225 View Post
    I have a lyman 452374 Devastator and the way I run it is with the pot on about 800 - 850 with Straight WW.
    I use a bottom pour and fill the mold with the sprue touching the spout. Than a Pretty good sized puddle on the sprue. The quickest way I have found to keep the pin in the mold takes three taps. One. Cut the sprue. Two, open the handles just a little and tap the the bolt. The pin falls out at this point on the left side of my towel. Open the handles the rest of the way and tap again, bullets fall on the right side of my towel. Close blocks, reinsert pin. Repeat.



    As to your flash. Check the retaining screw on the bottom the pin locks under. It may not be tight. Small flash will go away when you size the top punch will flatten it.

    Thank you for this advice! I have the same mold and most of my boolits have the flashing. Once I tumble lube them most of the flashing get mashed down or breaks off so it wasn't a huge concern. Just not as purdee as I would have liked.

  2. #62
    Boolit Man wrongway's Avatar
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    I'm new but how about a heat gun set on low with you HP pin sitting by it to keep it at temp

  3. #63
    Boolit Mold
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    Oct 2012
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    East London South Africa
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    As the alluminium mould heats up quicker than the steel pin we will have a situation where heat will go to the pin as it is colder than the mould . In the example earlier with the coupler where cast steel is used they are working with similar metals for casting and the pin . Expansion and cooling rates would be similar . With lead we need all items to have similar temperatures . Pins would work better when polished and with a small taper .

  4. #64
    Boolit Bub
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    Mar 2014
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    Pretty boolits

  5. #65
    Boolit Man
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    Good info, will definitely remember this thread.

  6. #66
    Boolit Buddy Boogieman's Avatar
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    Would a pin made out of brass hold heat better?
    The 3 people a man must be able to trust completely are his gunsmith his doctor & his preacher ..,his gunsmith for his short term health ,his doctor for long term health ,and his preacher incase one of the others mess up.

  7. #67
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jun 2018
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    Central Minnesota (Brainerd Lakes area)
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    I start my HP way hotter than it needs to be. Maybe takes a minute for the first mold full to solidify. Mold cools a little as I work into the rhythm. Never any trouble with sticky boolits that don't want to drop off the pins.
    My non HP molds seem to do better starting cooler and letting the casting heat them up and just toss the first few castings back in the pot.

    Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

  8. #68
    Boolit Master

    Dieselhorses's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fourarmed View Post
    Another thing I find helps is to force feed the alloy. Use a dipper or press the sprue plate tightly against the pour spout, and hold the feed open for several seconds.
    This is exactly the way I had pour some HP 150 GR 359's today. I started out in the conventional manner of holding mold about 1/4" under nozzle, cast about 20 and threw em back. Held sprue plate directly to nozzle and let off a little for sprue to build a little for each cavity and this got me near perfect bullets! More alloy weight in pot gives better flow too.
    The unexamined life is not worth living----Socrates
    Pain, is just weakness leaving the body...
    It is better to be hated for who you are, than to be loved for who you are not (ask DJT).

  9. #69
    Boolit Bub
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    In my limited experience:
    Run the pot a little hotter than normal
    Let the first few bullets linger in the mold to bring it up to heat.
    pour hard and fast once you hit temperature.
    In a bottom pour keep a good head of lead.
    In a Miha mold that is about all I can think of.
    With my Lyman mold I twist the pin to free it from the bullet before opening the mold, then use it to remove the actual bullet. I then drop the bullet off the pin and re insert the Pin. End result is the pin is free of hot lead for a very short time.
    Hope this is of some use

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check