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Thread: Zinc Wheelweights

  1. #201
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    Guys, can anyone tell me how easy it is to smelt Zinc? I have a pile now after sorting them from the lead weights and I am wanting to make a pair of wheel weights for my garden tractor. I don't want to use my lead for this so if possible I would like to use the zinc I have.
    Is there anything I should know about melting the zinc compared to lead?
    The smelt pot that I use is a older Lyman electric pot if that makes any difference.

  2. #202
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    Zinc melts at a higher (750 degrees aprox) temp than lead, and is lighter in weight than lead.
    I wouldn't melt zinc in any of my lead pots, for any reason. My advise is take the zinc to a scrap yard where you can swap for lead. The lead is heavier and easier to melt, plus you wont contaminate the Lyman furnace.
    What ever you choose, melting any scrap in your Lyman furnace is also a bad idea. Nothing but clean lead or alloy should ever be melted in a boolit furnace.
    Last edited by mold maker; 12-31-2014 at 07:51 PM.

  3. #203
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    Well, how about using a cast iron pot to melt the zinc??

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by victor3ranger View Post
    Well, how about using a cast iron pot to melt the zinc??
    I have no idea what tolerance the body has for zinc in this form. I know I take a zinc tablet when I feel a cold coming on, but in this form it just might be a No No. I'd hate to mess up a good piece of cast cook ware.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by victor3ranger View Post
    Guys, can anyone tell me how easy it is to smelt Zinc? I have a pile now after sorting them from the lead weights and I am wanting to make a pair of wheel weights for my garden tractor. I don't want to use my lead for this so if possible I would like to use the zinc I have.
    Is there anything I should know about melting the zinc compared to lead?
    The smelt pot that I use is a older Lyman electric pot if that makes any difference.
    Go to the thrift store and get a 3 or 4 quart stainless sauce pan. You can usually get them pretty cheap. Just make sure it is stainless. It will handle the necessary heat better. It can be done on a BBQ side burner but will take a while. Start off with some lead to help get the zinc melted. You will need to create a mold for the weights for your tractor before you start. Zinc shrinks quite a bit when cooling, so be prepared to have a large sprue for the mold to draw from.


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  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by SciFiJim View Post
    Go to the thrift store and get a 3 or 4 quart stainless sauce pan. You can usually get them pretty cheap. Just make sure it is stainless. It will handle the necessary heat better. It can be done on a BBQ side burner but will take a while. Start off with some lead to help get the zinc melted. You will need to create a mold for the weights for your tractor before you start. Zinc shrinks quite a bit when cooling, so be prepared to have a large sprue for the mold to draw from.
    Thank you sir

  7. #207
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    The quickest, and fastest way to sort Fe, Zn, and PB weights is a follows:
    #1 magnet will pick up steel Fe weights, just touch magnet to weight, not the clip
    #2 all the rest of them are touched to grinder or sander to shine a spot on the weight
    touch spot with HydroChloric acid ( HCl ) Lead will darken, zinc will foam.
    You will need an apron, face shield, and gloves.
    A good source of Acid is pool supply house, I bought a gallon for less than $10.00
    Using a propane torch, and tin can, the Zinc weights can be melted, and poured into ingots, and sold as scrap @ $0.20/lb, or cast into bullets. They will be lighter, and much harder than lead. I an considering using them in a rifle
    Might consider keeping a container of water with washing soda dissolved in it in cast of spilling acid on your self (better safe than sorry)

  8. #208
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    Once you score a few thousand wheel weights with a pair of cutters you can be about 99% sure of the difference between lead, steel and zinc. After awhile you don't even have to look at them. Just throw them in your bucket, melt them down and flux till your happy!

  9. #209
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    I've sorted dozens of buckets of wheel-weights and can usually pick out the different metals quite easily if I miss any my smelting pot only runs at 700-725 so the zinc and steel float to the top and are scooped off with the clips and other rubbish, for a quick check I use a clip and scratch a weight with it, with zinc and steel the clip just slides off without leaving a mark if lead it will dig in.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooternz View Post
    I've sorted dozens of buckets of wheel-weights and can usually pick out the different metals quite easily if I miss any my smelting pot only runs at 700-725 so the zinc and steel float to the top and are scooped off with the clips and other rubbish, for a quick check I use a clip and scratch a weight with it, with zinc and steel the clip just slides off without leaving a mark if lead it will dig in.
    Best to sort it as you say. Separating it is a must as it can really mess up your melt. Won't pour, chunky etc etc. you'll wind up throwing it away. -tj

  11. #211
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    I have followed the following method for separating Zinc from Lead weights. Each weight is placed to a grinding wheel to shine a spot on it. They are then swabed with a little Muriatic acid (Hydrochloric Acid) (HCl) which you can buy at pool supply store for about $10/gallon. Lead weights will have no reaction, the zinc ones will foam right away. The only warning, is the acid is strong, it fumes, and a good idea to keep a bottle of water with bi-carb of soda dissolved in it in case of a spill on your self. Aprons, gloves, and a face shield is strongly recommended.

    This brings me to my question to all the long time bullet casters...........Can proper rifle bullets be cast from zinc? I have from time to time found zinc .38 wad cuttersa on the backstop cast from zinc. I know they would be lighter, but this could be an advantage ballistically. Would the zinc wipe off on the rifle bore, even with lube? Let me know what you think. I know this question is not a really good one for this forum, but I was just wondering. As lead wheelweights are no longer made, the source will eventually dry up.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaptain kartridge View Post
    I have followed the following method for separating Zinc from Lead weights. Each weight is placed to a grinding wheel to shine a spot on it. They are then swabed with a little Muriatic acid (Hydrochloric Acid) (HCl) which you can buy at pool supply store for about $10/gallon. Lead weights will have no reaction, the zinc ones will foam right away. The only warning, is the acid is strong, it fumes, and a good idea to keep a bottle of water with bi-carb of soda dissolved in it in case of a spill on your self. Aprons, gloves, and a face shield is strongly recommended.

    This brings me to my question to all the long time bullet casters...........Can proper rifle bullets be cast from zinc? I have from time to time found zinc .38 wad cuttersa on the backstop cast from zinc. I know they would be lighter, but this could be an advantage ballistically. Would the zinc wipe off on the rifle bore, even with lube? Let me know what you think. I know this question is not a really good one for this forum, but I was just wondering. As lead wheelweights are no longer made, the source will eventually dry up.
    do a search on this forum for casting zinc bullits. also use google casting zinc bullets.

  13. #213
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    yes they can .. It will be a lighter bullet 30 to 40% lighter IIRC .. Barnes just introduced a zinc core 300 blackout bullet... its 90 grains
    as said above there are a couple threads on this forum where people have experimented with zinc casting .. it can be done
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  14. #214
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    Because of the fear of backlash to comments, lots of unreported zinc experiments are being done.
    It's a shame that the most progressive forum on casting boolits, is still so offensive to those who are willing to try something outside the box.
    We didn't get to this point of casting, by just doing what our ancestors did.
    A very good friend was offended to the point he took his vast knowledge and went elsewhere. He had been successfully experimenting with zinc in alloys and straight. Because what he had to say, was against the grain of conventual casting wisdom, he was soundly condemned.
    When we don't listen to what doesn't sound right, just because of that, we lose the benefit of those who do what we thought was impossible.
    As the casting world is forced to rethink what we cast with, we had better open our minds and respect those with the guts to try something different.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by mold maker View Post
    Because of the fear of backlash to comments, lots of unreported zinc experiments are being done.
    It's a shame that the most progressive forum on casting boolits, is still so offensive to those who are willing to try something outside the box.
    We didn't get to this point of casting, by just doing what our ancestors did.
    A very good friend was offended to the point he took his vast knowledge and went elsewhere. He had been successfully experimenting with zinc in alloys and straight. Because what he had to say, was against the grain of conventual casting wisdom, he was soundly condemned.
    When we don't listen to what doesn't sound right, just because of that, we lose the benefit of those who do what we thought was impossible.
    As the casting world is forced to rethink what we cast with, we had better open our minds and respect those with the guts to try something different.

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  16. #216
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    If anyone's interested you can take a look at "The Zlug Thread" in the shotgun forum. Yes, zinc alloy makes a fine full bore slug, 60% of the weight of lead. Come to your own conclusions. Accuracy testing coming over the next couple of weeks. Warning: A .729 rifle ain't for woosies!

  17. #217
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    Here is what I use to separate Zinc from Lead WWs. Go to your pool (swiming ) supply and buy a gallon of Hydrochloric Acid (AKA Muriatic Acid, HCl, ) Here in NY I paid $9.99. It is concentrated, so use caution when you work with it. (Eye protection, Fan for air, it fumes, an apron, and lastly, a pail of water, with a box of washing soda dissolved in case of a spill on yourself ) Using a grinding wheel polish the end of each wheel weight. then apply the acid ( or dip into acid ) A lead WW will show no difference, but a zinc one will foam the acid. Iron can be separated by the way the clip is attached ( iron WWs have a spot welded clip ) When the bucket is full of zinc WWs, I melt them and cast ito ingots. I think 20 centts a pound as scrap, or if you know a cannon builder

  18. #218
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    465 gr full bore 12 ga "Zlugs."

  19. #219
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    I'd be afraid to use an aluminum mold because of the temps involved. I'd also question the use of my expensive brass molds. That doesn't leave many choices. Am I being too cautious?
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  20. #220
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    Iron is the way to go. Tom @ Accurate made this mold for me. After some ciphering we decided the Zamak 3 alloy I'm using (96% Zinc, 4% alum.) would shrink .006 - .007 and would weigh ~ 60% of COWW alloy. 465 grns of hard metal ain't exactly a wimp load! But much less recoil with a 1600 fps load than = sized lead. May not be practical for small calibers where you need the
    weight, but 45 cal & up may make sense depending on what you're looking to accomplish.
    http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_...73-770SU-D.png

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check