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Thread: 45-70 BPCR Moving up in the world

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


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    45-70 BPCR Moving up in the world

    Well, sometime back, some silly government type sent me a Kungflu check. I have been sitting on the money waiting for the "right" thing. So far I have been shooting 45-70 in a Handi-rifle. It has worked really well and I have a great plinking loads with Trailboss and a accurate big bang load with IMR3031..you know that stuff that doesn't run the mosquitoes off when you shoot.

    That brings us back to the "Government" money. I no longer have the bucks. I do however have a very nice Japchester Browning High Wall BPCR . I know what the BP in BPCR stands for so I am going to try and load the holy black. So, before I blow myself and the nice rifle to kingdom come I have some questions.

    First, a powder drop. I'm frugal, no, make that cheap. I am going to build my own powder drop tube. The $50 hardwood ones I see all use a copper tube. Is copper required? I have 4 feet of stainless tube that is the right size. Any problems with stainless? It works in my Ruger Old Army. Is two feet the magic length? I can go 4 feet at no extra charge(I told you I was cheap).

    Second, I am looking at some other molds, but, right now I am going to use the 405gr RNFP boolits I have. I have read the posts on this forum about lubes. Everything from whale oil(I still have a small bottle) to mutton fat. My current boolits have Hitek coating on them. Is the Hitek going to be a problem? Should I also pan lube them? I have 45cal wads I make for the Old Army. They are olive oil, beeswax, and lanolin soaked. Would one of those be enough lube?

    Third, compression, I see people using compression dies. Doesn't the boolit compress the powder? Do I need to get some kind of compression die? Could I compress the powder with a dowel? That is what I do to insert the wad on my shotgun shells. I don't mind buying the die if it is required to get an accurate round.

    Any other magic you folks have for a first time BPC loader would be great! I am looking forward to shooting my new toy in the "proper" fashion.
    Remember the Law of Probability - The probability of being watched is directly proportional to the stupidity of your act.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    Those Browning BPCR's are high quality rifles capable of excellent accuracy. Provided of course the previous owner hasn't been dinking around inside the barrel and chamber.
    I would suggest that you forget about the Hitek coated bullets, and get a good mould, the Saeco 645, and the Buffalo Arms 458535 M2 both should produce good accuracy in that rifle.
    Drop tube really not recessary, a powder funnel with a 12 inch extension will work fine.
    Don't compress the powder with the bullet, you can most times use the expander die from die sets from Lyman, RCBS and Redding to compress the powder.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    As Don said a funnel with extension and a slow deliberate pour works. I do use a 36" drop tube though. I made it years ago. I to recommend the compression die I have made new stems for the lee dies both the expander and seater to use instead of the actual bullet. Using the sift BPCR bullets to compress may expand bend noses and damage the bullets.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Another way to compress powder is to make a dummy bullet from aluminum or brass. Make it .010 undersized on dia and same profile as your bullet. use this on the seater die to compress powder. A open grained hard wood can be used also finish with a thin epoxy like 3m mixed light dip and soak for 10 mins then hang and let cure then finish sand back to size.

    Turn the bullet on a small shaft from the round stock With wood this can be done with files sand paper and a drill press but a small lathe is better. Form the bullet on the stem leaving it on the stock to finish. I usually leave the nose attached, this makes working the base down easier. You dont need the grease grooves here. If you leave the bullet .010-.015 long it can be worked in to where the seating die dosnt need to be reset for compression or seating with this bullet. Bieing undersized you can set the wad and seating insert in the case run in seating die remove and if matched to bullet seat bullet

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Bad Ass Wallace's Avatar
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    My powder compression plugs are made from industrial nylon (RHS of the pic) one end in the seating die the other length to suit the projectile seating depth.

    Hold Still Varmint; while I plugs Yer!

  6. #6
    Banned

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    I would get a bullet weighing 500 grains at least! I got my 2 foot copper drop tube from the plumbing supply section at Lowe's for a couple bucks. The best lube to use is SPG!

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy dave roelle's Avatar
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    Texasmac wrote a book on that rifle, it will get you the best result in the shortest time

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Track of the Wolf sells 45-70 powder compression plugs in different diameters to fit the cheap Lee expander die bodies. Buffalo Arms has expanders for Lyman M dies.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by dave roelle View Post
    Texasmac wrote a book on that rifle, it will get you the best result in the shortest time
    Thank you sir! I have ordered his book. For a guy who usually gets his rifles from the as is rack this is going to be fun! I am looking at some new molds but it is shorts weather and I usually do my casting when it gets colder. The BACO molds seem to be always out of stock. I like NOE molds but his 500 gr. is also sold out. I have been powder coating or using Hitek on my other boolits. I guess I will have to remount the Lyman 450!
    Remember the Law of Probability - The probability of being watched is directly proportional to the stupidity of your act.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Are the newer highwalls like the older as in they have no throat if so that is something to think about
    Those who would trade freedom for safety deserves neither and will lose both

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I have heard people use a hollow arrow shaft for their tube.
    Rich or poor, it's good to have money.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiram View Post
    I have heard people use a hollow arrow shaft for their tube.
    That works, so does the brass tube sold in hobby shops.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy dave roelle's Avatar
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    When you get your book you will have some insight into bullets

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Sticks of brake line work also 4 feet x 3/8 or larger diameter for jus a few bucks
    Those who would trade freedom for safety deserves neither and will lose both

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Something to consider is using some kind of wad under the bullet. My Browning likes to have a .030 vegetable fiber wad over the powder (placed in before compressing the powder) and either a news paper, milk carton or file folder wad under the bullet. The reasoning is that if anything sticks to the base of the bullet it will be the thinner and lighter wad. Thus less effect on accuracy.
    As others have said a simple plug of some sort will work just fine to compress the powder.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by chill45100 View Post
    Something to consider is using some kind of wad under the bullet. My Browning likes to have a .030 vegetable fiber wad over the powder (placed in before compressing the powder) and either a news paper, milk carton or file folder wad under the bullet. The reasoning is that if anything sticks to the base of the bullet it will be the thinner and lighter wad. Thus less effect on accuracy.
    As others have said a simple plug of some sort will work just fine to compress the powder.
    Definitely a wad ! My talian sharps and two lever guns (45/75 and 45/70) shoot better with a wad - I use 45thou HDPE salvaged from ten litre water jugs - with newsprint wad on top - also when I am loading have a cotton pad on the bench damp with WD40 and wipe the boolit base to get leftover lube off the base
    I used juice box wad but needed two of em and the poly is easier and works better (seems to anyway)

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by dave roelle View Post
    When you get your book you will have some insight into bullets
    The book looks great! I read some of the articles on his web site...good info there! I ordered the book at 11:00 and by 2:00 I had an email he would ship the next day.

    As far as wads. I have a Ruger Old Army. I bought the 45cal wad punch from Track of the Wolf. I assume that punch should work for this rifle. I know a 7/16" punch is undersized for .45. I have a bunch of felt from Durofelt so I will try some of those. The ones I have punch currently are lubed but I will make some dry ones. I looked and I don't have the proper die for my Lyman 450. I do have a push through die so I guess I will start with pan lube.

    You guys are giving me some great info. I appreciate the effort!
    Remember the Law of Probability - The probability of being watched is directly proportional to the stupidity of your act.

  18. #18
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    accurate moulds offers some good greaser moulds in a variety of bullet dimensions and weights.

    arrowshaft drop tube with a collar to keep the grains from hopping out of the case and an alum funnel up top, all mounted to a wood frame. swiss or olde ensford or goex 1-1/2f or 2f are all good powders.

    BACO offers .45 compression plugs that fit in die bodies such as lyman and others. a tad of compression for starters, more testing later.

    you can punch veggie or carton or tablet material for over an powder wad, but you might wanna also give .060 LDPE plastic sheet a go, first. you might also wanna test out a newsprint wad over the flash hole and under the powder.

    when i was doing greasers, i dip lubed the bullets and "cookie cut" 'em (remove the excess lube) with a .45-70 case. this is just faster than waiting for a whole tray of pan lube to harden.

    then make up some dummy cartridges to set the OAL, then lock in yer seating die.

    enjoy yer rifle and black powder cartridges!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check