I have a ww2 hi power that I want to remove the chrome plating, anyway I can do myself without damaging the steel?
thanks kurt
I have a ww2 hi power that I want to remove the chrome plating, anyway I can do myself without damaging the steel?
thanks kurt
That's one gun refinishing question I don't know the answer to. I hope someone else does, and we'll both get educated. If that doesn't happen, then I'd suggest phoning Brownell's and chatting with one of their gunsmiths. Chrome is a plating, but different than nickel, and I would assume that it can probably be removed chemically, perhaps in combination with electric current. You could also try a custom car accessory manufacturer who makes chrome items like bumpers and maybe get an answer there.
Depends on what kind of chrome is on there, Nickel , Hard, chromate, Sub straight?
Pics would be helpful. Der Gebirgsjager beat me to this post, Every harley has nickel chrome.
Last edited by super6; 08-23-2020 at 03:21 PM.
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Do your own research:
But I'd heard from a couple of folks talking about it that your have
to do the same electric/bath process as plating, only reverse the polarity.
Chrome is harder than steel, sanding it off isn't practical.
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Chrome plating is very thin. I worked in a plating shop doing parts for cars for 40 years. To remove the chrome we had a caustic bath that we would hook up to reverse plate the chrome off. You hook the part up to the positive side and hook the negative side to some steel strips hanging in the solution. You should be able to buff the chrome off because it is not that thick, but you will probably have a layer of nickel and maybe copper under that. the nickel and the copper are much thicker than the chrome. If you decide to take the chrome off with a power supply you will only need around 6 volts. The hard part is going to get the nickel off if you are trying to get it down to bear metal.
This^^^^
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Hey I don’t mean to hijack this thread but I have a rather nice Bowie knife that was handmade that someone found sticking out of a hog carcass in the woods in Florida. The idiot I got it from thought it would be a good idea to chrome plate the blade and I’ve been trying to figure out for years how to get it off without damaging the blades ability to hold an edge. I would imagine it was very cheaply chrome plated but I’m not sure anybody got any suggestions on the easiest way to do it. With the above method work? So as not to hijack this thread feel free to PM me with any advice.
Thanks,
Poppy42
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Just remember that Chrome and other metals are positive ions, so if you want to reverse plate it off you have to hook up the positive terminal to the part you want the chrome off of. Not sure how much caustic is needed to carry the current to remove the chrome. I do know that if I had chrome on my hands I would wash it off in the in the bath to get it off and my skin did not eat off.
Most gun refinishers only charge around $50-75 to remove existing plating, in conjunction with a refinishing job. Personally, I think that's the best way to go.
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Unless you plan on re-plating it, I would leave it alone. After the plating is removed, your tolerances will open up and the parts fit won't be very good.
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I researched this a few months back..
Deplating is the way to go, it will remove the chrome and not touch the base metal. I have had it done to a Dreyse needle gun, and the results were excellent.. but!
It is possible to do this yourself, but you will end up with several gallons of extremely toxic waste, which is almost impossible to dispose of safely. Don't even think about dumping it down the drain or in the back lot.. the environmental police will hunt you down and roast you alive (... with my full approval!)
You are far better to take it to your local plating shop who will simply put the chrome back on the next hub cap they treat and will have approved disposal routes for any waste they produce. Deplating is easy and should be cheap..
The one thing you need to do is make sure the platers oil up the metal when it comes out of the wash otherwise it will rust as you look at it.
I would try a battery charger set to 6 volts. A 9volt battery will not have enough amps to do the job. You will need about 20 amps if I remember right. If you don't get enough amps then close the gap between the part and the steel plates.
Are you sure it's chrome, or nickel?
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Pretty sure it's chrome, has not dulled any in the 40yrs I've owned it and has that blue tint to it.
A lot of cheap chrome plate (Indian) is done direct onto steel,those with experience will tell that a chrome coat appears in a few seconds ,as it is only a few millionths thick .....If this is the case with your gun ,then it should be very easy to remove.......however ,a good triple plate job ,is probably best left alone ,or if the gun is of some value to you ,you might consider having it chrome flashed again,which will restore the appearance,maybe dull chrome ,or black.........Advice re disposal is sound ......municipal sewers have continuous testing of discharge for pollutants ,and the drain feds will come right back to your sink with amazing ease.Industrial strength penalties wont be pretty.
Lloyd the gun was not org chromed, like to get it back to blued.
If it were properly chromed, it required refitting to keep tolerances between parts where they should be. Chrome plating adds thickness and can cause binding it the gun is not refitted, Removing the chrome can cause looseness and affect timing in revolvers. On the Highpower it will affect slide fit, therefore accuracy and possibly functioning.
Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |