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Thread: .30 Remington from 30-30

  1. #1
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    .30 Remington from 30-30

    I got these from a member here. He turned the rims off and cut the extraction grooves perfectly. The center cartridge has yet to be fire formed- so we can see the difference in the shoulder area of the Winchester version vs. The Remington version of the "30-30". All of these are loaded with IMR 3031.

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    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Great photo. Makes it abundantly clear why you can't use .30-30 Win dies to reload the .30 Rem.
    Cognitive Dissident

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    Eddie Southgate's Avatar
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    Why not just buy some .30 Remington brass from Graf ?
    Grumpy Old Man With A Gun....... Do Not Touch !!

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    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Because that run will sell out and once again there won't be any for years and years. Wissen ist macht.
    Cognitive Dissident

  5. #5
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    Yep, when I bought my first M141 there was no brass to be found. Had ground a tool to make some when 50 showed up on S&S. Still have the tool, for next time!
    I loaded on 30-30 dies, for a good while. Problem occurs if you have to full length size. Patience won out, now I have the correct dies! They are more scarce than the brass!
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  6. #6
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    I did buy 50 Graf brass, and a CH neck .30R die and 40 NOS WW unprimed brass. I'll save the factory stuff for last. I'm keeping my eyes open for a seating die but the 30-30 one works ok for now.

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    Just possible that you could find some Lyman Tru Line or 310 dies.

  8. #8
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    Dad gave me a M8 Rem in 30 Rem when I was about 12 or 13. With it were about 30 rounds of ammo. I used 3 to get my first deer. After that is sat unused with it's box or so of ammo. Dad had bought me a 7mm mag when I was 15 which was the first rifle I loaded for. Some years later I found a set of dies for the 30Rem but didn't have any empty brass but was working at an auto machine shop and had access to a lathe so made 50 cases from 30/30 win. I didn't use them much as I started finding loaded ammo here and there as well as several boxes of new old stock brass. Now have about 450 loaded factory and around 200 empties and another M8 in 30Rem. There is still ammo and brass out there but it is becoming harder to find.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    During my search for 264 Win correct brass I found about twice as much 32 Rem and a set of CH dies for the 32 . Kind of a trip .
    I have a really good picture of the moved shoulder and lack of body taper but I'm over max storage for pictures .
    .Click image for larger version. 

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    I tend to describe the Rem vs Win as a rimless AI with a Weatherby shoulder .
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
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    https://smile.amazon.com/RCBS-30-Rem...s%2C182&sr=8-1

    https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog...ategoryId/742?

    i got these both for my 30 rem, 100 cases will last me till i'm dead.
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    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rking22 View Post
    Yep, when I bought my first M141 there was no brass to be found. Had ground a tool to make some when 50 showed up on S&S. Still have the tool, for next time!
    I loaded on 30-30 dies, for a good while. Problem occurs if you have to full length size. Patience won out, now I have the correct dies! They are more scarce than the brass!
    What's the chance you could post photos of the form tool you ground to cut the extractor groove?

    We're you planning to cut of rim first then the groove?

    Two tools or one that takes off the rim and cuts the groove at the same time? I would think that's doable just an absolute bear to grind without the proper equipment.

    Never tried to cut extractor grooves, I don't grind tools often enough combined with a simple grinder that it would have to be done free hand steers me away from any case that would require it.

  12. #12
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    The idea was to chuck the case by the neck with a live center in the primer pocket flash hole. Turn the rim off with the right tip of the tool. Then slide that part of the tool off the base and use the unsharpened left side as a “gage” riding against the base as you cut the extractor groove with the crossfeed at 90 degrees. The left side of the tool is radiused enough to serve as a “stop” against the case body. That was the plan anyway. It is in my tool drawer in my desk at work, I will dig it out when I get back. Hopefully I have not repurposed it, it’s been near 10 years ! I am a pack rat so it’s probably there, not pretty as I did it freehand, was just an interesting experiment to see if I could make a “production” type setup for the task. Keep in mind, that groove is not hi precision work and other than the diameter it’s just clearance that you keep minimal. Measure factory case to verify. That’s why I never tried it, instead of one case to measure for verification, I found enough to suffice.
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    Quite a few years ago the RP 30 rem brass was available from Midway I think ,and I had just gotten my Grandfathers old Stevens in 30/30 rem. I loaded them up in 2011 I think and a few months ago I shot them finally. About half of the brand new older brass got very fine splits in the neck. I was disappointed to say the least . The older used brass that I got from my grandfathers "hoard" worked well and did not split. I have set about trying to make some brass from 30/30 Win and gotten as far as grinding the rims off but got stuck on cutting a new extraction groove ,..I wish I had a lathe to play with but do not. I do have a set of correct dies so that is all set.
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  14. #14
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rking22 View Post
    Then slide that part of the tool off the base and use the unsharpened left side as a “gage” riding against the base as you cut the extractor groove with the crossfeed at 90 degrees. The left side of the tool is radiused enough to serve as a “stop” against the case body.

    Never thought of unsharpened portion of the cutter acting as a positive stop for depth, that would give you a much more repeatable depth of cut as opposed to trying to use the dial on the crossfead or cutting by eye.


    May have to try that just for the grins of it.

    There have been a couple of times in the past where that technique may have helped me.

  15. #15
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    Using a Wison trimmer case holed for a 30-30 is a superior way to hold on to the cases.
    Once your case is jammed into the case holder you can chuck the case holder in a 3 jaw. it even works better with a collet chuck.
    EDG

  16. #16
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    EDG, that would be better but I don’t have one and was working with what I have. Do have some runout but for cutting the extractor groove( clearance) really doesn’t amount to anything.

    15meter, I have done that on occasion but it is just a quick and dirty feed stop, still visual. I watch for the first rub then back off. This thread has gotten me interested in seeing just how it works on these cases. I know I will need to tweak the relief and back angle a bit. Gotta cut some to see.
    I am retiring soon so will no longer have a nice machine shop to piddle in. Time to look into the tabletop mini machines.
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  17. #17
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    I've converted a few 30-30 brass for my 30 Remingtons, and they seem to work fine. First I ground a 1/4 tool bit to match the groove on a factory case, basically just a single bevel on the left side of the bit until it fit the groove. Then turned a 4 inch steel rod till it slip fit in the neck of the resized 30-30 brass.

    The rod and case are then tightened in a 3 jaw chuck on the lathe, and the live center in the primer pocket. I then turn off the rim using the angled side of the bit, using the dial indicator on the feed to stop at the right diameter. I then move the bit back , and cut the groove to the required depth. I just position the groove cut by eye, so a few cases have a thicker rim, and won't pass the shellholder test, and have to be recut. A fine file then takes off the sharp edge of the rim, and then polished with some steel wool.

  18. #18
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    Guys, I have no .30 Remington rifles, nor really any plan to get one, but I think Grumpa posted a tutorial on how he converted .30-30 to .30 Rem several years ago.

    A search might find it.

    Robert

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy wolfwing's Avatar
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    Would 30 Herrett Rimless be the same thing just shortened?

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    Derived from 6.8 yes but it's short by a neck .
    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .

    Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18


    Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
    Brother I'm going to be Pythagerus , DiVinci , and Atlas all rolled into one soon .

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check