Fitting #5 rolling block butt stock

[Fishoot]

I'm working on a #5 rolling block stock. The action has a 1901 patent date. Fitting the stock is giving me fits with the angles and multiple surfaces that have to be mated. Is it accepted practice to cut a 90 degree junction at the back of the action where the stock meets the action side walls? The action currently has the original wedge shaped junction. I'm thinking it would make fitting a new butt stock much easier. I plan to remove the hand guard recess on the front of the action and thought I would check with more experienced guys to see if altering the butt stock junction is common? Would removing the small amount of metal make the action look strange? Thanks for your consideration.

[mf79]

I have used zinc oxide ointment from drug store to put some on a spot and see where it transfers and know where to cut or file. maybe that can help guide fitting ?

[pietro]

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Yep - dye/spot the rear of the receiver where it abuts the stock, then install the butt manually so the dye will illuminate the high spots on the wood that need to be removed.

You can also use a thin coat of woman's lipstick ($1 @ a Dollar Store) as a transfer dye.

When (finally) the dye transfers evenly, the fitting should be done, allowing work to be moves to recucing the sides of the forward end of the stock to match the outside receiver surfaces.

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[Der Gebirgsjager]

Your rifle, your call. There really aren't any rules, and nobody will be by to check. As indicated by mf79, the way that most stockmakers use to fit stocks is the "try and fit" method, which involves coating the metal contact areas with inletting black or Prussian blue, putting on the stock as far as it will go, removing it and then removing wood from the area that was marked by the contact, be it scrape, sand, or file. Depending on the complexity of the job this can be repeated many times or only a few. Sometimes craftsmen find a better way to do things, but before altering your receiver it would be a good idea to consider why it was made that way-- does the original shape have a purpose?

[RustyReel]

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[Texas by God]

Pics needed please.

[Mk42gunner]

While I haven't done a Rolling Block, yet, I have tried the lipstick trick. It does work, but it also tends to make a big mess.

Truth is I've tried a lot of different spotting compounds, most make a mess or are a PITA to use or clean up after.

What I did for the last forearm I made was take a bit of black oil based paint and mixed it about 50/50 with motor oil. It worked reasonably well and didn't make too bad a mess to clean up.

Robert

[Fishoot]

I appreciate your responses. Though I have to admit to using these techniques myself on the simpler #1 rolling block. The more complex junction of the #5 has been a challenge for me and I was looking for a quicker method. Fortunately, I left enough extra wood for learning. I have used red oil paint such as artists use. It works like inletting black or smoke soot to mark the contact areas to be cut. I guess tomorrow I'll get back to it.

[pietro]

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A man with a plan - please let us know how you make out....

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[Mk42gunner]

Never hurts to at least investigate your options, as long as the job gets done to your satisfaction.

Robert

[colchester]

I trimmed mine so its 90* angle much easier to fit the wood. I octagon,ed the receiver and curved the lower tang and thinned the trigger guard as well. My intention is to make it a creedemore clone. Thanks for reminding me I need to get back on this project

[RustyReel]

I trimmed mine so its 90* angle much easier to fit the wood. I octagon,ed the receiver and curved the lower tang and thinned the trigger guard as well. My intention is to make it a creedemore clone. Thanks for reminding me I need to get back on this project

Have any pictures of this project you could share?

[Fishoot]

I'll do some pictures once I am further along. Thanks for the interest.

[Fishoot]

I made some more progress on the inletting. I have included pictures of a number 1 type (actually a Swede Shotgun) and a number 5 rolling block I am working on to show the difference in receiver to butt stock mating surfaces. Finally, there is a picture of a stock I am nearly finished with that will go to a Number 1 Swede roller. The wood for the rough stocks should finish up similar to the last one pictured (with any luck). The inletting for the number 5 is okay, but not perfect. I would have liked the tang to fit more snugly. The angles at the stock junction came out okay, so far. More work needs to be done but its been pretty hot in the garage. We are in triple digits this week. Thanks again for encouraging me to stretch my skills to the number 5 job.

[Texas by God]

Looking good, keep them coming.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[largom]

I used a foot powder in a spray can [can't remember name] as a spotting/transfer compound. Works great, no mess, easy wipe off and cheap.

[pietro]

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Pretty nifty wood, there - Nice work !

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