Help with PID

[lar45]

Are you sure that you have a SSR output from the PID?
Some are made to do 4-20mA

[HATCH]

According to his model # it is a dc voltage output model for the SSR.


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[prickett]

A quick way to check the PID is to take the TC leads loose on the back of the PID. Short across those 2 terminals with a jumper wire and the readout on the PID should show ambient temperature.

It shows the correct temp when using the TC. It also shows it should be sending power to the SSR (via an indicator on the PID). But, there is no voltage on the terminals hooking into the SSR.

[HATCH]

If you measuring DC voltage then it would be safe to assume there is a issue with that PID.


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[lar45]

You might try disconnecting the SSR from the PID and then see if there is any output to the SSR terminals.

[prickett]

I think I'm going to punt on this Red Lion PID and buy either a Inkbird or Mypin. Which of these two would you recommend (ease of programming + accurate enough + works with the Inkbird SSR listed below)?

(ignore the picture attached. I added it accidentally, then removed it, yet it still appears)

https://www.amazon.com/TA4-SNR-Therm...ref=mp_s_a_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0UK0R3


SSR:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o00_s00

[redhawk0]

DELETED - I see someone already pointed out it was an ac controlled SSR not a dc controlled.

redhawk

[Rizzo]

I think I'm going to punt on this Red Lion PID and buy either a Inkbird or Mypin. Which of these two would you recommend (ease of programming + accurate enough + works with the Inkbird SSR listed below)?

(ignore the picture attached. I added it accidentally, then removed it, yet it still appears)

https://www.amazon.com/TA4-SNR-Therm...ref=mp_s_a_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0UK0R3


SSR:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._title_o00_s00

Check out Ebay for a PID.
I saw a MyPin going for about $24.00.

[lar45]

I've been using the MyPin TA4. They are quick and easy to setup.
My favorite one was the Rex C100, it was very stable. Came with crap Chinese instructions. The first batch I got would switch between F and C, the second batch I got would only readout in C.
I've switched to using the 40Amp SSRs, if you look at the specs, they have much less loss in the 10-15 Amp range most casting pots draw.

Anyway, here's what I've been doing.

[prickett]

What needs to be set when programming either the Inkbird or Mypin other than the set point, input type (K thermocouple), Celsius/Fahrenheit, max and min temp? Anything?

[lar45]

I just set the max temp to 1000, set it to readout F, I belive that it comes preset for K type, but it's easy to cycle through the settings to check. The instructions for the Mypin are fairly straight forward and easy to read. After I get the pot up to temp, I run the Auto Tune to set the P. I. D. values.
I've never had a problem with the Mypin TA4.

Depending on the size box you have, you might want to include a small PC fan and drill some vent holes. I use an Aluminum box, so it also serves as a heat sink.

[prickett]

I just set the max temp to 1000, set it to readout F, I belive that it comes preset for K type, but it's easy to cycle through the settings to check. The instructions for the Mypin are fairly straight forward and easy to read. After I get the pot up to temp, I run the Auto Tune to set the P. I. D. values.
I've never had a problem with the Mypin TA4.

Depending on the size box you have, you might want to include a small PC fan and drill some vent holes. I use an Aluminum box, so it also serves as a heat sink.

Thanks! I don't know anything about auto tune, can you please explain what that does and/or if it is necessary?

[HATCH]

Auto tune basically allows the PID to learn the heating characteristics of whatever it is controlling.
How long it takes to heat up and cool down.
It resets the programming and basically makes the operating window go down. Operating window is basically when it turns on and turns off. This window should be +\- 5 degrees max at the temps we cast at, if it is setup properly. Out of the box it may be higher.

Example, I had a customer contact me this week. He got a PID and set it up on his toaster oven.
Initially it would operate +\- 15 degrees of set point.

He ran auto tune and now it initially goes to 10 degrees over set point, then drops to set point and now holds at +\- 1 degree.


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[prickett]

Auto tune basically allows the PID to learn the heating characteristics of whatever it is controlling.
How long it takes to heat up and cool down.
It resets the programming and basically makes the operating window go down. Operating window is basically when it turns on and turns off. This window should be +\- 5 degrees max at the temps we cast at, if it is setup properly. Out of the box it may be higher.

Example, I had a customer contact me this week. He got a PID and set it up on his toaster oven.
Initially it would operate +\- 15 degrees of set point.

He ran auto tune and now it initially goes to 10 degrees over set point, then drops to set point and now holds at +\- 1 degree.


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Thanks for the explanation! Is this required once, or every time you use the PID?

[HATCH]

Once.
In recommend that each time you switch devices, let’s say between your oven and your pot, that you run auto tune.


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[prickett]

Once.
In recommend that each time you switch devices, let’s say between your oven and your pot, that you run auto tune.


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Thank you! I appreciate everyone's help.