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Thread: Turkish Mauser

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Turkish Mauser

    Question for all the military firearms experts.
    I am trying to find a load for a 1939 Turkish Mauser chambered in 8x57 that will shoot in near vicinity of where I aim it. My 200gr cast load seemed to group pretty well at roughly 60 yards but was about 16" above point of aim. I am going to buy some bigger targets and try at 100 yards but my eyes won't do much farther than that with open sights. Research has told me the rifles are zeroed to 200 meters normally with military ammunition which I also read is pretty hot. My limited experience with open sights tells me to get a load to shoot to the sights will end up very low powered. Should I try heaver bullets?
    Thomas
    "Just let it go."
    Don "Big Daddy" Davis 2003

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    Boolit Master



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    My advice(not an expert) would be if you like the 200 grain boolit, stay with it. Order a mauser blank sight from Brownells and file it a little at a time until it hits at you point of aim and distance you want to zero. That is what I did with nearly every mauser I have owned and that is quite a few. Fitting is not that hard, just use a 3 cornered file with one side ground smooth. Call a "safe" file. james

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    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Thanks James. Not the reply I was expecting but that's why I asked. I kinda figured it was too far off of zero to correct with the load.
    Thomas
    "Just let it go."
    Don "Big Daddy" Davis 2003

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    Those rifles are regulated for a 154grain fmj trotting along around 3000 fps. James is correct. On sighting- are you dropping the front barleycorn to the bottom of the Vee? As in "a fine bead"? Try that but I'd get a taller front sight too.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    Those rifles are regulated for a 154grain fmj trotting along around 3000 fps. James is correct. On sighting- are you dropping the front barleycorn to the bottom of the Vee? As in "a fine bead"? Try that but I'd get a taller front sight too.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Yes sir. Dropped it as low in the vee as I could and aimed at the bottom of my target board just to make sure I could get it on paper and check the grouping. The taller front sight should be just the ticket. Was fairly amazed at how well it shot for a beat up old military rifle from 1939.
    Thomas
    Last edited by 264 Win Mag; 08-07-2020 at 08:52 AM. Reason: Spelling
    "Just let it go."
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    Boolit Grand Master


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    264 Win Mag this should fix you up, used one on M96 Swede to bring shots down to poa.........https://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...k-prod341.aspx
    Charter Member #148

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    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    264 Win Mag this should fix you up, used one on M96 Swede to bring shots down to poa.........https://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...k-prod341.aspx
    Thank you swheeler. Will get on on order ASAP so I can work with the rifle this Fall/Winter.
    Thomas
    "Just let it go."
    Don "Big Daddy" Davis 2003

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy andrew375's Avatar
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    A quick solution is to put up two targets, one above the other. Aim at the bottom one to hit the other.
    "Consciousness is a lie your brain tells you to make you think you know what you are doing." Professor Maria Goncalves.

    If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear. George Orwell.

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    Another thing to consider is the bedding. With the long barrels it is very easy for the stock to bend them. With the barreled action laying in the stock if, when the front guard screw is tightened, the action is pulled down into the stock the barrel is being bent up. That can and does cause milsurp rifles to hit higher than they are supposed to. The barrel, in a properly bedded Mauser, should lay evenly w/o any upward (or sideward) pressure when the action is tightened down firmly by the guard screws.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
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    Quote Originally Posted by 264 Win Mag View Post
    Thank you swheeler. Will get on on order ASAP so I can work with the rifle this Fall/Winter.
    Thomas
    Order two ...just in case you mess the first one up you will have backup .
    Voice of experience speaking here .
    Gary
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  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    Another thing to consider is the bedding. With the long barrels it is very easy for the stock to bend them. With the barreled action laying in the stock if, when the front guard screw is tightened, the action is pulled down into the stock the barrel is being bent up. That can and does cause milsurp rifles to hit higher than they are supposed to. The barrel, in a properly bedded Mauser, should lay evenly w/o any upward (or sideward) pressure when the action is tightened down firmly by the guard screws.
    Will check this out as well. It is definitely a long barrel.
    Thomas
    "Just let it go."
    Don "Big Daddy" Davis 2003

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    Order two ...just in case you mess the first one up you will have backup .
    Voice of experience speaking here .
    Gary
    I ordered a front sight pusher as my track record with roll pins and and punches is not stellar.
    "Just let it go."
    Don "Big Daddy" Davis 2003

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    Having had many pallets of Turk ammo I can say definitely that pulling the bullets and dumping 5 grains will make them more pleasant.

    Run un-selected through a 1919 Browning the covers WILL blow up every 800-1200 rounds. Big deal there, pound the cover flat and keep shooting. For shooting in bolt actions I RECOMENED the 5 grain reduction of powder. Make sure you clean it good it is very corrosive and the jacket material helps it hold the corrosion ability.

    At $.03 delivered it was Fantastic! The 90's were the good old days IMHO
    I still have enough for my bolt action 8mm's Thank you

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    Long ago a few of us watched my Hakim eject a Turkish round 64 feet from the shooter. Yeah, it’s hot. And that was after hitting the deflector. I turned the gas way down for the rest of that 90 round $2.50 bandolier with brass stripper clips! Good times. The Yugo is better ammo if found I thought.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Got the new front sight from Brownell's and after some cautious filing and using the new front sight pusher I have it installed. Getting ready to load up some more 200gr cast rounds and see what I can do this time to lessen the 14" to 16" above point of aim impact. New sight is significantly taller than the old sight so I expect a major improvement.
    Thomas
    "Just let it go."
    Don "Big Daddy" Davis 2003

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master


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    So how did it do Thomas?
    Charter Member #148

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    I keep some 1/2" X1/2" steel stock around, and make sights when I need them. Mostly to cure your problem, to bring sights to point of aim.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy 264 Win Mag's Avatar
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    Got everything installed and ready to go. Have the rounds loaded but between the weather and elderly in-laws a trip to the range has not happened. Sweat in the eyes does not help my marksmanship.
    Thomas
    "Just let it go."
    Don "Big Daddy" Davis 2003

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold
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    Another trick I have done is to take some thin styrene used in scratch building railroad models, say .010" thick. I cut a thin strip and bend it into a V, and glue it on to the front sight to raise it up. Then file it as you go. Files easy, and then you know about what height the real one needs to be. Also done this with very thin brass sheet.

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
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    Sarco also has a comparable “tall” sight - theirs references the Swedish Mauser, but AFAIK, all the Mauser dovetails are the same. I usually shoot FAR slower loads than anything that came out of these guns and have also found simply using a “true” Swedish front sight on other vintages, since it is not the inverted “v” of the German, Turk, and Spanish guns (The Swede sights are a true vertical post), you can often order a taller (+1.0, +1.5) sight and kill two birds with one stone - get your POI and POA to finally team up and improve your sight picture considerably.

    I had done this on my 1891 Argentine first, then found a NOS Marbles bead front blade that was designed to fit the dovetail. Since the gun was already sporterized, it was a no brainer and a vast improvement in sight picture. I believe the Marble’s front sight blade for the Mausers was a 2 (or a 3?) and a 28. They show up on ePay from time to time and no one seems to know what they were made for.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check