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Thread: Casting for a 30-30W Bolt

  1. #1
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Casting for a 30-30W Bolt

    Hope this is the correct forum for this.

    I have been looking at buying an old Savage 30-30 Winchester Bolt Rifle, just because it looks interesting. Thoughts are to shoot this 100/200yds. Is there a cast boolit suitable to do this? Where would I find load data? This would also be my first venture into loading rifle. Also are gas checks needed and can they be applied w/o a lube/sizer?

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    Boolit Master
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    I have a 788 Remington in 30-30. I rebarreled it in 30-30 also, as I wanted a heavier barrel. The 30-30 is a great caliber for cast bullets. There are a bunch of bullets suitable for this cartridge. 150 to 170 grains, are the most common weight ranges used. I have the Lee 150 and 170 gr molds. I always use gas checks, although if you keep the velocities down below 1500 fps, you can often get away without them. Gas checks need to get crimped on, although the old discontinued style Lyman gas checks did not crimp. A Lee bullet sizer setup will run about $20, in your choice of .309 or .311 for the 30 caliber, which will size and crimp the gas checks in one operation. If that's not suitable for you, you can tumble lube the bullets in Lee Liquid Alox, and shoot them without the gas checks, unsized.

    If you are just interested in plinking or informal target shooting, @ modest velocities of 1500-1600 fps range, or less, 2400, 5744, or Unique powders will work just fine. I use 15 gr of 4759, which is a now discontinued powder. It delivers around 1550 fps. I bought several kegs, when it's discontinuation was announced. At these power levels the cases last almost forever. You can use pistol primers for these low pressure loadings if you wish. Getting a Lee collet neck sizer would be a good investment also, as you will only need to neck size the cases. Not a bad idea to aquire a Lyman "M" expander die, to flare the case mouths, so you don't shave lead upon seating the bullets. I know it's a lot of extra stuff to get, but in the end, it will make your experience more pleasurable and productive.

    A Lyman loading manual would be a great source of load data for cast bullets in the 30-30. Might run around $25.
    Last edited by GBertolet; 08-03-2020 at 12:34 PM.

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    Suggest a PM to TexasbyGod. He's got some winning advice on bolt action .30-30 loads.

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    My 340 isn't a tack driver but doesn't seem finnicky either, it likes pretty much any cast bullet I have run through it. My hunting load in it was the 31141 and 25 grains of a powder they used to import that burned real close to IMR3031, but it has also done real well with the 311291, the Ranchdog bullet and the 311466. They aren't real strong actions so stick to load data for lever guns, but you don't have to be concerned about bullet nose type or crimping.

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    I've got a 325-A. Same gun, different model number. I haven't gotten around to trying it with cast yet, but it is on the list.

    One thing I would recommend is to either do a chamber cast or slug the throat or barrel. I remember an article of Frank Marshall's that used to be on the front page of the cba website in which he stated that his 340 had a .3125" bore.

    Before I try cast in mine, I will at least slug the barrel.

    Robert

  6. #6
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Yes the one I'm looking at is also a 325-A that is in very nice shape even for it's age. Again hoping it will shoot 100 to 200yds. if I can find the right bullet.

    I do see that Ramshot has some data with the Lyman 31141 bullet. Will look up those other molds mentioned also.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    I've got a 325-A. Same gun, different model number. I haven't gotten around to trying it with cast yet, but it is on the list.

    One thing I would recommend is to either do a chamber cast or slug the throat or barrel. I remember an article of Frank Marshall's that used to be on the front page of the cba website in which he stated that his 340 had a .3125" bore.

    Before I try cast in mine, I will at least slug the barrel.

    Robert
    I just did like I always do with nominally .308 bores and shot .311 sized cast in it. Works fine and shot better than I would have guessed. It won't do one hole groups at 100 yards, but is pretty good and as I said, doesn't seem to be picky.

    Something I did find out, be careful about overall length, mine will feed and chamber rounds that it won't eject if unfired, seems the ejection port is made for short loads like are made for lever guns.

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    If you're comfortable with a little stock work, they benefit from a bedding job that consists of bedding from forward of the magazine opening to 2 inches forward of the action bolt, being mindful of bedding the recoil lug. Free float the barrel. I did this, and my Springfield 840 shoots wonderfully. Full disclosure, I didn't get to shoot it before the stock work, but, the inletting was nothing short of atrocious! The barrel band actually pulled the barrel down over 1/8 inch, which is why I redid the bedding in the first place. Discarding the barrel band is probably a good idea.

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    Most 340s seem to be badly bedded. I loosened things up and could rock the barreled action on the recoil lug. I bedded it pretty much like he described and it helped with consistency.

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    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Well I just watched a couple youtube vid on bedding. most interesting indeed!

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    I have a 325C and it is the 3rd of that model or type that I have owned.
    It also has the smoothest/ best bore of the 3 rifles. I will not comment on its accuracy since it is not drilled and tapped for a scope.
    I have read that the earlier rifles of this model were built with barrels left over from machine gun production. I have no idea if that is true but my rifle has a single point cut barrel with a faster twist than the SAAMI specs. It is also very smooth compared to the (2) 340s that I had that were very rough button rifled barrels.
    EDG

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    Quote Originally Posted by EDG View Post
    I have a 325C and it is the 3rd of that model or type that I have owned.
    It also has the smoothest/ best bore of the 3 rifles. I will not comment on its accuracy since it is not drilled and tapped for a scope.
    I have read that the earlier rifles of this model were built with barrels left over from machine gun production. I have no idea if that is true but my rifle has a single point cut barrel with a faster twist than the SAAMI specs. It is also very smooth compared to the (2) 340s that I had that were very rough button rifled barrels.
    I've heard this too. They were rather innovative rifles in their day, Savage designed them with that barrel nut system for setting head space that the 110 series of rifles still uses.

    Good read here; https://www.leeroysramblings.com/Gun..._bolt_act.html

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    I cast for the .30-30 and other .30's. I'd like to neck size the brass, but out of a lever-action, I find I have to set the shoulder back a couple thousandths every time I use a reasonably stout load. The bolt compression, action stretch and tolerance stack-up in a rear locking action sure shows up in mine. Can anyone suggest a two-lug front locker like a Mauser which is easy to convert to .30-30? That seems like a winning combination to me.
    Last edited by yeahbub; 08-04-2020 at 12:34 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahbub View Post
    I cast for the .30-30 and other .30's. I'd like to neck size the brass, but out of a lever-action, I find I have to set the shoulder back a couple thousandths every time I use a reasonably stout load. The bolt compression, action stretch and tolerance stack-up in a rear locking action sure shows up in mine. Can anyone suggest a two-lug front locker like a Mauser which is easy to convert to .30-30? That seems like a winning combination to me.
    Someone already suggested you talk to texasbygod, he has a really nice Mauser sporter he made into a .30-30 he has talked about a few times. Very nice looking rifle and a very good shooter too. One of the guns posted on here I am rather envious of.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahbub View Post
    I cast for the .30-30 and other .30's. I'd like to neck size the brass, but out of a lever-action, I find I have to set the shoulder back a couple thousandths every time I use a reasonably stout load. The bolt compression, action stretch and tolerance stack-up in a rear locking action sure shows up in mine. Can anyone suggest a two-lug front locker like a Mauser which is easy to convert to .30-30? That seems like a winning combination to me.
    If you have a lot of money to spend, you may find one of the old Winchester Model 54's in .30-30.

    I know I still regret not picking up the one I saw in the mid eighties. Woulda, coulda, shoulda.

    Robert

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    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    I have a Savage 340 in 30-30. Mine really likes the NOE 165gr. RD bullet. The one cut for Win. 94’s not the Marlin version. It feeds well and shoots good. It even shoots well with no gas checks and using small amounts of Redot. I PC my bullets and size to .311”
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

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    My ears were ringing; thanks for the kind words. I have no experience with a Savage with cast; the Stevens I had shot better than dad’s Win 94 with factory ammo (iron sights).
    The Spanish Mauser that I rebarreled to 30-30 likes the Lee C3091150 and C309170 flat nose designs the best of all the designs I’ve tried (4 or 5). Two loads that really shine in my rifle are the 150gr over 25 grs of IMR 3031 and the 170 gr over 29 grs of Win 748. I size both to .309”( I know that is small but it works) and seat a Sage’s or Hornady gas check in the Lee sizing die. I PC them or use LLA depending on my mood. My alloy is 50/50 clip on wheel weights/ sinker lead for hunting; range scrap and a touch of pewter for play. I’ve always just air cooled my cast bullets. I haven’t shot at 200 yards, but at my 40 yard and 100 yard ranges the combo is quite accurate. I’m a hunter first, so the flat nose bullets shooting so well tickle me to death. And the luck fairy was here when I Bubba’d this thing together.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check