Any electronics guys out there??????
One of the terminals was loose.
Just popped out when I moved it.
I think it's a capacitor, but now I'm thinking not.
Attachment 265561
Any electronics guys out there??????
One of the terminals was loose.
Just popped out when I moved it.
I think it's a capacitor, but now I'm thinking not.
Attachment 265561
it is a coil/chock
Thanks
What can I replace it with????
Stamped 102K, confusing because that usually indicates resistance.
Closest I could get is this:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...XY3G4xnQ%3D%3D
R/Griff
Last edited by dangitgriff; 08-01-2020 at 06:03 AM.
Go to the electronic supply and get a 102K wire-wound inductor with radial terminals. Take that critter with you to get the proper terminal spacing. Then you get to practice your soldering skills.
Capacitors are marked with a value and a voltage rating. That part has no voltage rating. Inductors/chokes are rated in Henrys (H) milli henrys (mH) and micro Henrys (uH).
What is it out of? Do you have a schematic? Can you post a couple more pictures of it with different views? Without a size reference, it is hard to tell how big it is compared to say a penny.
“If we lose freedom here, there is no place to escape to. This is the last stand on earth.” - Ronald Reagan
It's an inductor but what is it out of? They have frequency and current ratings. Often used in switching power supplies - so maybe something else is bad to cause it to become desoldered.
Whatever!
It's out of a Whirlpool washing machine. WT4800XQO
I just playing with it. Trying to get it to work again.
No other markings on it.
Can't find a schematic for the board.
Attachment 265576
I've done electronic component repair for 30 years. It certainly looks like an inductor to me.
Cut the outer insulation off of it to see if there are wires in it. Also if you can show where it came off of the circuit board, that would help.
1.0 uh 10% tolerance then use lead spacing and size to guestimate current ratings, Digikey is good for this, here is a DigiKey search page
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/...=1&pageSize=25
This may be close but that first link has a bunch of choices https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...9975-ND/946859
That mounting style is called radial and vertical which is an option in the search list in the first link.
https://www.mecaprecp.com/index.php?...ucts_id=240312
also on the bigbay
Mike
NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95
Pictures of the board and part number.
The paper arrow, upper right, is where it came out from.
Lower right was a Capacitor that had burnt.
Need to find one of those in my bottle of caps.
From what I could find on the web, it's a...........
102K Fixed Inductor.
PM is the series.
Does that sound correct????
Attachment 265593Attachment 265594
Last edited by abunaitoo; 08-01-2020 at 10:46 PM.
Yup, power supply. Got to find the actual failure, short someplace.
Whatever!
Yes. A current surge probably took the inductor out. I suspect you had a power fluctuation/brownout at some point prior to the failure, as inductors are often part of a filter conditioning circuit to regulate input or output power.
Replace the failed component with one of the same form factor and value and you should be good to go. Be sure to inspect the rest of the circuit board for additional component damage, both sides, as I’m sure you already have.
R/Griff
When I get in the door of those dishwashers I check the detergent door mechanism to make sure it's secure and the plastic flap shield for the electronics is in good shape. The board looks clean except for area by your inductor and the smoke from the cap so it doesn't look like a long term moisture issue.
It's definately an inductor. They're a little tricky to calibrate so the 100K likely has a considerable tolerance, up to 30%, perhaps. You can pay a bit more and get 5% tolerances but that doesn't necessarily make them suitable for the application you're using them in. You'll likely end up with some trial and error trying to get the right one to work.
--Wag--
"Great genius will always encounter fierce opposition from mediocre minds." --Albert Einstein.
Where that is in the power supply area tells me it is just filtering and not all that critical of a value... since you have the board out I would swap the electrolytic caps out, they dry out and bulge and cause issues!
I have had some luck here finding parts.tho i did not look up your pat.Good luck with the fix.
https://www.digikey.com/?utm_adgroup...SAAEgIc_vD_BwE
One of the caps blowed up.
Others look good, so I'll replace the bad one and see if that was the problem.
Then probably change the others.
I probably screwed up when I removed the inductor.
To me it looked like a bad cap.
Where it was, I couldn't see the sides, so I bent it to the side.
When I did, one of the leggs came out.
Free washer that the guy said did work, but had a grinding noise.
Found the grinding noise was hair pins stuck in the pump.
I tried to run the auto test, but the lid light was on and no spin cycle.
Fill and pump worked fine.
Might also have a bad run cap on the motor.
Replaced the lid switch and still the same.
Should have checked the board before replacing the switch.
Just working on it for my own enjoyment.
If one electrolytic capacitor let go replace them all. They dry out with heat and age...
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