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Thread: How to "deal with" spray-on air dry or bake-on finish?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,074

    How to "deal with" spray-on air dry or bake-on finish?

    Several years ago I commissioned a purported lever action custom gunsmith to render my Rossi 92 stainless steel 454 Casull carbine into a half pistol grip 45 Colt rifle ― a Winchester 92 rifle with shotgun butt. It was, and is, intended to be the other half of my Freedom Arms 97 45 Colt set. The gunsmith was way beyond an unfortunate choice. After filing a complaint with Postal Inspection Service, I repossessed the botched rifle.
    ***
    Okay, to the query. My current gunsmith is booked for several months until my rifle is to be finished. In the meantime he returned it for me to use until he'll get to it. The rifle's receiver and many of action's internal parts have had a black cerakote (spelling??) or similar coating done. Breech bolt and locking lugs are uncoated. I do not know if it's spray-on air dry or bake-on finish. The action is snug-to-tight. I don't know whether shooting ― that is, cycling the action during magazine loading ― will damage tolerances, harming the action.

    - Kris Bonner (Accu-Arms, Missoula, MT) intends to strip the coating as part of his job. Can the action be used as-is without excessive wear on action tolerances? If yes, what lubrication will mitigate any excessive wear likelihood?

    - If excessive wear would be likely, can I "deal with" this coating while awaiting Kris? I have hand tools, no power equipment or blasting apparatus.
    Last edited by Naphtali; 07-31-2020 at 03:42 PM.
    It’s so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don’t say it. Sam Levinson

  2. #2
    Moderator


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
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    8,172
    I would think that it would loosen up after some use. If the painted surfaces are that snug they'll be bound to wear against each other and the paint should wear off at points of friction/contact. There are lots of good lubes, but I'd hold off on it for a while, because the lube could prevent wearing of the friction surfaces. It's tight because of the coating, and you want to wear some of that coating off. You'll know when to stop--when it operates looser and the surfaces begin coming shiny. Then apply lube.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Central Maine
    Posts
    726
    Use it. The coating is much softer than steel. Your gunsmith will likely bead or sand blast the coating off when its time any way. Shoot and enjoy.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check