Loading a Lee 1oz key drive slug with a Federal 12so wad. Do I need to cut the petals low enough they aren't caught inside the roll crimp?
Loading a Lee 1oz key drive slug with a Federal 12so wad. Do I need to cut the petals low enough they aren't caught inside the roll crimp?
Everything I know about roll crimping I learned right here on the forum! Although I am a successful roll crimper, I haven't crimped over the Lee slug, although I know what one looks like. I'm thinking that the petals would have to be below the crimp. If the major diameter of the slug was above where the crimp is supposed to be applied, I don't see how you could successfully crimp it. But, knowledge abounds here, and perhaps someone has done it.
IMO the slug needs to open the roll crimp, so I always trim the wad back to make sure it doesn't get trapped in the roll crimp.
Scott
You can easily judge the character of others by how they treat those who they think can do nothing for them.
Cool, I'm headed out to try my hand at this. I'd thought I needed the wad out of the way. Thanks!
Depending on the wad selection you have, you could also try and overshot card on top of the slug.
Scott
You can easily judge the character of others by how they treat those who they think can do nothing for them.
I have reloaded Lee slugs into OF Federal Blue Low Recoil Slug hulls that I recondition by using a heat gun and a tapered spud.
I load them with 18 gr of Green Dot and use a Claybuster Blue Slug Wad with a .125 card under the slug. Then Roll Crimp with a BPI Roll Crimping Tool. The results are about as perfect looking as a reloaded shell can look. These shoot well out of my Vang Comped Barrels and very well out of my Browning A5 Buck Special Barrel. See Target below.
I have found that roll crimps work better in hulls that were previously Roll Crimped. Roll Crimping previously Fold Crimped hulls doesn't come out as nice. However you can trim the Fold Crimp down lower and get a good Roll Crimp that way. You can also use the heat gun to help straiten out the Fold Crimps so they will Roll Crimp better
Also there is a thread at the top of this forum with lots of info on Roll Crimping.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
To date the only roll crimping I’ve done was for my 8 gauge . Yesterday we got a Midway order at the shop and there was a 10 gauge roll crimper in the order I’ll give that one a go in the very near future . I’ve got an order with Precision waiting on 8 gauge hulls before I turn it loose but in it I’ve put 12 and 16 gauge roll crimper . May eventually try them on the 20 and 28 but surely no rush for that . Incidentally I’ve had very good luck with roll crimping the quite thick Temington 8 gauge Indistrial hulls loaded with birdshot , buckshot , punkin balls and slugs . So to be honest I don’t see an issue with the smaller gauges , but I’m sure I’ll run into something lols !
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
6pt: just go to the Sticky Thread and read my last post. I have been having great luck using the techniques shown there.
Reconditioning the Hulls with the Heat Gun and Preheating the Tool with the Heat Gun and using Vaseline in the Tool are the most successful actions.
You can get a heat gun at Harbor Freight for $10-15 . Well worth the money.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines
She doesn't know. They're pretty cheap to buy too.
Yeah the torch might be a little much. The heat guns are cheap and useful for many things. I use mine alot. I also use it for pre heating the roll crimp tool. that helps a bunch.
Check out my latest post on the Roll Crimp Thread Sticky. I outline pretty much what I do now and it removes alot of the guess work. My results are about as good as you can get and rival the best Factory Crimps I've seen. (Federal Blue Hulls.)
Also it should be noted that both Lightfield and Brenneke both use Rio Hulls and roll crimp them the same way we do. I took one of each apart to see what was inside and reassembled them back in new Rio hulls I had . The only difference was the Rubber Stamped Logo on the outside. They did use a different Roll Crimp Tool than I did, I used a BPI tool and it looks like they used one of the newer ones off Reloaders Network. I have one of those too but didn't have it when I did those shells.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Good information, Thanks. I shot 30 rounds today that I loaded yesterday with the BPI 2 pin roll crimper. After getting them home I warmed them up with the hot air blower and straightened out the mouths with my home made taper tool. They all reloaded as good as yesterday. I used a bit of Ballistol for a lube on the mouths seemed to work ok.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |