Any suggestions? Severely fouled barrel.
Any suggestions? Severely fouled barrel.
The inventor and manufacturer of the coating recommends N methyl pyrrolidone. He has instructions in post #363 of the HiTek monster thread, page 19:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...coating/page19
It's an ingredient in some adhesive removers. It can also be bought on line from chemical supply companies.
How about using jb bore paste
I have never experienced Hi-tek fouling. And i shoot a lot of coated boolets. Are you sure it's not carbon and lead fouling?
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
Just fix the coating next batch and shoot it out.
Whatever!
I’ve had some fouling that kinda seemed like coating too come to think of it. Right at the muzzle.
I'm running 240gn RNFP with 2 coats HITEK out of Marlin 1894 44Mag at full throttle..Bore is shiny clean all the way along..
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Few years back I tried the HiTek green in 30/30, mild load and unchecked bullets. I ended up pushing out a hard ring of HiTek near the muzzle with real tight patch - like pounding it out. Didn't hurt rifle. If not too much crud, just shoot it out with GC bullet. If it looks like a bore restriction, pound it out -several patches wrapped around rod - from breach!!
Whatever!
I have never experienced this problem even though I once drove 125 gr Lee R/F plain base at 2,600 fps, no accuracy or fouling at all. I understand this problem has happened before and is caused by coating not being properly baked and cured. I would be reluctant to try and remove any obstruction by firing a bullet through it. I think the best advice was given by kevin c. Regards Stephen.
I once had a buildup of crud in the forcing cones of my revolvers, which took a bit of effort to remove. As far as I can figure it was a combination of powder residue and un-cured Hi-Tek. In the early days I had a couple of batches where the coating was too thick and didn't cure properly. Now that I've got a better idea of what I'm doing it hasn't happened again.
Elbow grease and stiff brass brushes eventually got it out.
Marlin barrels have a reputation of tightness under the front sight and the rear roll stamp. IMHO this causes some build up of Pb/coating. I had shot maybe 30 rnds, no problem. Just didn't have any checked ones with me that day. Normally the buildup of Pb there gets removed next shot but the scraped off HiTek is harder and builds up more. 15-1600 fps GC cast should take it right out. I would NOT do that with a revolver!
The green I used was early liquid stuff only spec'd for pistol. They ran ~1200 fps in the 30/30, no GC so probably gas cut the base too.
Whatever!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |