So, I have 15lbs of pewter Christmas ornaments. I want to use the stuff. Is most all pewter consistently 92% tin? I have never poured any pewter or anything with copper content. Is that a worry?
So, I have 15lbs of pewter Christmas ornaments. I want to use the stuff. Is most all pewter consistently 92% tin? I have never poured any pewter or anything with copper content. Is that a worry?
I've always gone by if its soft bendable pewter and or has hallmarks on it I'll add a little to clip on wheel weights when I'm smelting, maybe a couple or few ounces per 10 pounds or so. tin and pewter are worth a whole lot more than lead unless you buy it out of the lead bin at the scrap yard. it only takes a little to help fill out the edges of a mold.
there are some real experts here on the site that know a whole lot more than me about it, but that's just what I do and.
My understanding is that modern food service pewter (mugs, plates, bowls, etc.) is lead free and 92.5% or better in tin content, but that pewter for other objects (candlesticks, picture frames and other decorative items) may have less tin, and, if old, often had a significant lead content.
Here's a quick review: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pewter
ETA: copper and antimony are present in modern food service pewter in single digit percentages. Added to casting alloy at the typical 1-2%, we're talking about amounts of Cu and Sb at a few parts per ten thousand, which I think unlikely to make a noticeable difference in the characteristics of the final alloy. Non food service pewter, I'm not so sure about. As a guess, the most likely high content metal besides tin would be antimony, which might harden the alloy some if present in the pewter used in double digit concentrations.
Last edited by kevin c; 07-30-2020 at 03:27 PM.
A little copper is good, it increases elasticity and hold boolit together at higher rpms/velocities
hate to say this but some "pewter christmast ornaments" are actually pewter colored .
all pewter is soft (ish) and usually marked pewter, Zinn,---
pewter can be many different alloys usually 80-92% tin and the remainder lead, they often add other alloys to harden it or ???
melt it and see where it melts,
Pewter has a low melting point, around 170–230 °C (338–446 °F), depending on the exact mixture of metals.
I use it for "sweetening the pot" while acting (IF I don't get good fillout and don't want to raise the temperature (hight melt temperature give you smaller boolits)
I throw .5 oz pewter in the mix, try it again then add more if needed.
I'm not OCD so I use pewter for alloying at the same ratio that is called for for tin.
That little bit of copper in the pewter won't cause any problems pouring ingots. Babbit can have a much higher copper content and pours just fine.
I melt 10 lbs of clip on wheelweights with 10 lbs of plumber's lead, roofing lead or pipe, all soft lead, and add 6.5 oz of pewter, or approximately 2%. Works just fine for my needs. I treat the pewter as if it was pure tin
At the top of this Forum is a Sticky Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks. It contains a plethora of this site's pewter and tin knowledge.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I've always using the bendability test. Or, run the tip of your knife over it gently. Just try a small amount. Where did you find them, if you don't mind?
Most common metals will scratch or gouge pewter. A house key made of brass or aluminum will do it. When I was serious about pewter hunting, I'd carry a small flat piece of known pewter, snipped from a mug or plate, to test with on the spot. If the item in question and the test pewter wouldn't mark each other, I figured the hardness was the same. If the item scratched the test piece, I figured it was harder than pewter ought to be.
https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm
Think I will cast out some of the pure pewter and see if it casts, and then let cool and measure hardness. According to the calcultors it should be pretty hard.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |