22lr deriming stick to the shaft

[Super Sneaky Steve]

Hey guys. I'm new to swaging and I'm trying to derim lots of cases right now.

About every 12th case will stick to the shaft. Right now I've been trying to scuff the outside with some pliers to increase friction or move the die down more or both.

Any advise to keep this from happening? It's making a long process even longer. I'm using a Blackman die.

Thanks

[rancher1913]

very small amount of swag lube on the shaft, I usually just rub my finger on it ever so often. just wait till they start blowing the end out of the brass--its a learning curve but once you get it down its fun to make boolits. also make absolutely sure the brass is clean, any dirt will cause bad problems.

[Super Sneaky Steve]

Thanks Rancher. I tried switching to a water based case lube and it seems to work better. Maybe the lanolin was too good and there wasn't enough friction to pull the case off. I also had trouble cleaning the lanolin off so this is a double win. I'll save the swage lube for seating and point forming.

[rcslotcar]

The cleaner the brass the better. Do not anneal before derim . I use my own lanolin/castor oil mix. A highly polished shaft needs to be lubed and when I insert a case I spin it to lube the inside evenly. I then tap the top with my finger to lube the top rim. I use a BTSniper pneumatic press and get about 3-4 punch thru stuck cases per thousand this way. Good luck!!

[midnight]

Try polishing a few ten thousanths off the punch diameter. It doesn't take much to stick one on the punch. A too soft punch will compress over time & may increase in diameter a few tenths.

Bob

[Super Sneaky Steve]

Try polishing a few ten thousanths off the punch diameter. It doesn't take much to stick one on the punch. A too soft punch will compress over time & may increase in diameter a few tenths.

Bob

What diameter should the punch be? Thanks for the tip.

[Bent Ramrod]

Corbin offered a short length of metal tube with a hardened, domed washer with his .22 shell swaging die set. The tube fit over the press ram. The assembly traveled up and down with the press ram with the hole in the washer a close fit on the derimming punch.

Those derimmed cups that didn't come off the punch after it had been pushed through the die were pulled back through the die with the upstroke on the press lever, and stripped off the punch at the bottom of the stroke by the hardened domed washer. The tube/washer assembly was short enough so the punch didn’t come completely out of the washer as the ram bottomed out, so the assembly stayed in the ram as the derimming progressed.

I recall seeing this setup offered on the auction sites.

[MUSTANG]

A composite picture of what Bent Ramrod is describing for the Corbin 22LR to .224 jacket removing device:

[Idz]

Trick I learned making gas checks was to ensure the formed cap traveled completely through the die. The cap then springs open slightly and catches the edge of the die and strips it off the punch. Your die needs a sharp edge at the exit to act as a stripper.

[Gew]

Use a dental pick or something like that to check how clean the inside of the rim is getting. If you can scrape the inside and dump out grit on a sheet of paper then that is part of the problem.

[midnight]

Proper punch diameter is difficult to determine. Ideally it is the finished diameter of the jacket minus 2 times the thickness of the jacket walls minus a couple tenthousanths. Since you don't have a perfect finished jacket when you start, this is a problematic formula. 22lr cases do not always have parallel walls which adds another variable to the mix. I start out wanting a jacket with a .2230 to .2235 OD. Then subtract 2x the wall thickness, whatever that turns out to be. Then I polish to get the last couple tenths clearance. While it is turning in the lathe, I use a fine file to put a slight taper & round the corners on the tip of the punch & then a 1200 grit final polish. Try it out & polish as needed until jackets don't stick. Too much lube simply adds to the effective diameter of the punch. I just lube like in the point form die. Dirt or grit in the case also adds to the effective diameter of the punch & must be avoided. I usually case harden mine to give a longer lifespan. As you can see, the process involves a lot of trial & error because there are too many uncontrollable variables. We just control the ones we can & live with the rest. Kinda like life.

Bob