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Thread: Annealing and case forming questions

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy

    oconeedan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Lake Oconee Ga
    Posts
    220
    Hmmm, that's an idea. I have o-ring kits, I wonder if any are thin enough to work? Thanks for the idea.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    1,504
    Make sure the firing pin is in good shape and long enough.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy

    oconeedan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Lake Oconee Ga
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    220
    O-rings too thick.
    Greg, the firing pin is perfect and protrudes very well. But good thing to check, thank you. I think the firing pin spring is OK, but I will replace it if I need to. And everything moves freely in the bolt.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy

    oconeedan's Avatar
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    Jan 2019
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    Lake Oconee Ga
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    Today I was able to fire the old M71 for the first time! Yesterday was a no-go, the brass was not fire formed and was moving forward at the strike of the firing pin, resulting in light strike.
    Today, I found little O-rings and put on every cartridge at the front of the rim, which would force the brass to sit on the bolt face. Closing the bolt was difficult, but possible. I ended up with 21 fire formed brass, the they should fit well from now on.
    The 4 I tried yesterday, with light firing pin strikes, would not fire. I assume the inner of the primer was damaged in some way from the light strike. I will have to pull apart, and reload with new primers, use the O-rings, and fire form.
    Accuracy was poor, but I didn't expect any more. With fire formed brass, it should improve. I would love to try powder coated bullets, which would add a few thousands diameter, but I think it will bulge the brass and not chamber.
    I used Ballistol, that stuff stinks. I think chicken coops smell better.
    I had to clean every other shot, as the brass was allowing residue to build up on chamber walls. Could not load and fire more than 2 without great difficulty. My blow tube did not help. Again, fire formed brass should help this problem.
    If it were that much work all the time, I wouldn't stick with it. But it should be easier now with formed brass.
    Oh yeah, I used air cooled wheel weights, I don't know the hardness but it is fairly soft and can be scratched with thumb nail. Do you think I should try cutting WW with pure lead?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check