Lyman Model 61 Mould Master question

[PBSmith]

I inherited one of these years ago. The bottom spout had been plugged and the previous owner was using it as a ladle pot. I continued in that mode for many years.

More recently I thought it would be interesting to try bottom pour. I found what appears to be the original the drop rod, then rigged that with a handle fashioned from a lug nut wrench. The mechanics look good but the thing leaks badly. I emptied the pot again and found the seat in the spout is badly cruded.

Any suggestions about how to clean it up to get a better seating of the rod? If I'm not mistaken the tapered, conical portion of the rod is what seals, and the small pin at the end serves only to guide the rod. Does this sound right? See photos below. Look forward to your suggestions.

[onelight]

It looks like the wrench is laying on the pot could be just the way I see it in the picture but it seems having it off the side so the weight of the wrench is on the valve might help . Assuming it will not cause it to seat crooked.

[PBSmith]

It looks like the wrench is laying on the pot could be just the way I see it in the picture but it seems having it off the side so the weight of the wrench is on the valve might help . Assuming it will not cause it to seat crooked.

Good observation, Onelight. The handle was resting on the side of the pot until I filed a flat on its underside to give clearance. Yes, the lug wrench provides plenty of downward pressure on the rod. To the best of my ability, I've got the drop rod coming straight down into the spout. Will check that again. Thanks.

[onelight]

Well if the rod is seating well I would scrape any lumps from inside the spout that will scrape with with a piece of brass case or a brazing rod or something soft enough not to damage the spout the surface that mates to the rod and after it is clean I would lap the rod with valve lapping compound until both the rod and the spout have a lap ring all the way around each . I would lap like I did valves and slide a rubber hose over the top of the rod to allow you to spin the rod between your palms while putting down pressure on the rod when you have the gray lap marks all the way around both parts you have full contact.
Some of these other guys may have a better process but this has worked for me.
Those are great pots and worth the trouble. I like you handle , best use I have ever seen for that kind of lug wrench

[farmbif]

the seat and plug is probably tapered at a common angle say like 45 degree angle or whatever it is. if theres enough meat left to the seat a chamfer tool, tapered reamer whatever they are called could clean it right up with a cordless drill and extension, just an idea from a hobbyist, there are master machinists on the site that have good ideas for putting that pot back in order.

[PBSmith]

. I like you handle , best use I have ever seen for that kind of lug wrench

Wrenches of that style were nearly worthless, weren't they? Especially at high noon in the middle of July in Death Valley long after the vehicle had been driven across salt flats in western Nevada and never washed.

[PBSmith]

the seat and plug is probably tapered at a common angle say like 45 degree angle or whatever it is. if theres enough meat left to the seat a chamfer tool, tapered reamer whatever they are called could clean it right up with a cordless drill and extension, just an idea from a hobbyist, there are master machinists on the site that have good ideas for putting that pot back in order.

I've got a tapered reamer but its angle isn't right. I don't know about the seat material, but the rod is quite soft - annealed to death? Onelight's idea is one I've entertained. Don't know what might result if the grinding compound finds its way down onto the pin end of the rod. I'd not want to enlarge that at all.

[onelight]

I would ream as a last resort . Just lapping compound is like thick grease if It does not need to be thick on the taper I would not be to concerned with the pin it cuts so slowly you will have the opportunity to see where you need it and adjust how much where to apply to the taper on the rod. Your main issue will be getting the trash stuck on the taper of the spout off before lapping . I would not be shy about finding a way to use A brass scraper or steel wool maybe wrapped around a big q-tip or something to clean it well before lapping .

[beagle]

When I was cleaning mine periodically, I used a wooden dowel with really fine crocus cloth to hand lap the crud out of the spout entrance/mouth. Don't overdo it. Then I reamed the spout with a drill but not enough to enlarge it. Do it by hand. The valve stem, I chucked in an electric drill and polished with crocus cloth. Once everything is clean, give it a go. May not leak if the spout is still good.
Once it starts leaking, get it to casting temp. Set an ingot mould under the spout. Touch the bottom of the spout with a lump of beeswax or candle wax. Let set for about 30 seconds and crack the valve. I'll be willing to bet that the resulting lead in the ingot mould will have a bunch of crud in it no matter how clean you think you have it. If you get it to stop leaking, repeat this procedure every casting session. Lead's dirty stuff and the crud tends to adhere to the pot sides and the valve and spout parts.

The bees wax flows upward along the inside of the spout and acts as a kind of flux and loosens the crud.

Good luck. They're good old pots as are the old Potters and Saecos./beagle

[PBSmith]

I managed to get the entrance to the seat and the seat itself cleaned up. Then lapped the plug and seat per onelight's suggestion. Fired her up and was able to cast enough wadcutters to see how bottom pour works.

From looking at photos of other 61's online, I believe my furnace is missing a part. It's the guide that holds the upper end of the stem or drop rod in place. Without such a guide, the rod wants to wobble around in the seat, resulting in leakage.

Thanks for you help on this project.

[Rich/WIS]

The pot is missing the flow control, easy to fabricate from steel if you have a vise and drill press. One end is drilled for passage of the right rear bolt that holds the support rod, then bent to shape and a second hole is spotted so it sits over the pouring lever and drilled and tapped for a hex bolt. The bolt goes in head down from the bottom. File a screwdriver slot on the other end to adjust as needed when pouring. Look at pics of a complete pot for guidance on the final shape. The flow control is just that, it does align the drop rod.