Using a 6 cavity Lee mold

[azchisum]

I have several question's on using the 6 cavity mold.
How hard is it to get the mold hot enough for the sprue cutter to work. I have a ten pound lead pot and wonder if
it will run smoothly before I run out of lead. Does the mold have to get super hot before trying the sprue cutter.

[FLINTNFIRE]

Preheat mold on a hot plate , I find if its up to temp I can fill all cavities and sprue cuts fine , if you do not have it up to temp fill 1 or 2 and cut and as it gets warmer fill more cavities , have found warming on the hot plate means I can go right to filling whole mold if I want .

[gpidaho]

As mentioned the Lee six cavity moulds work best when preheated. I put the mould all the way in to the cavity closest to the handles and elevate the far end slightly, dragging toward my self I fill all cavities in one pour trying for a generous sprue that looks like a welding bead. Gp

[trapper9260]

Like stated get the mold up to temp on a hot plate and then you will be ok . I use a 10lbs bottom pour and I have no problems after it is up to temp . I also use a ladle and use a large ladle to fill the mold ,I found it is easyer with a large ladle then the small one that Lyman sells. I found it is easy with the large ladle

[Conditor22]

I like to pre heat the mold on a hotplate to between 375 and 400°. IF you don't have a hot plate you can pressure pour the first 5 or 6 casts cutting the sprue as soon and you get done casting

[Billwnr]

I use the 6 cavity Lee aluminum moulds and they heat up fast. I'd guess 5 throws with the lead left to sit a bit longer than normal (to transfer heat to the mould) and you will have be at the "good bullets" stage.

[ukrifleman]

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chap...dleMusings.htm

Glen Fryxell nailed it when he observed the problems encountered with 6 cavity aluminium moulds.

Most problems arise because the aluminium mould heats up quicker than the steel sprue plate, which actually cools the alloy before it enters the cavity.

Read his observations for a greater insight.

ukrifleman

[azchisum]

Thanks I'll give thata try.

[Shiloh]

Lay it on top of the pot as it is heating. Dip the corner of the mold into the melt.
A few casts will than have it where it needs to be.
|
Shiloh

[Larry Gibson]

Lay it on top of the pot as it is heating. Dip the corner of the mold into the melt.
A few casts will than have it where it needs to be.
|
Shiloh

This is what i do. Most often the 1st cast or the 2nd produces very good bullets. With #2 alloy in NOE 4 cavity 30 cal moulds I'm casting match quality bullets by the 3rd cast.

Not saying Fryxell is incorrect in his assumption the problem is the sprue plate cooling too fast. I always thought aluminum conducted heat away faster than steel? Anyways the solution has always been to just use the correct alloy temp, adjust cast tempo so bullets don't frost, open flow from bottom pour to get the alloy into the mould as quick as possible, adjust mould rest/guide so the sprue plate is not more than 1/2" from spout and pour a generous sprue allowing the molten alloy to boil up out of the cavity/sprue plate hole. I prefer aluminum moulds.

[Geezer in NH]

I just use a 15 dollar hot plate bought at Wally World on them set at 400 degrees.

[Burnt Fingers]

What size boolits?

The six cavity 22 cal mold is going to be hard to keep hot.

The six cavity 45 mold is going to hard to keep cool.

[megasupermagnum]

All good advice, I also use a hot plate myself. If you don't have a hot plate, you can dip your mold in the lead as suggested above. Another helpful tip is you can start with your lead hot. If you normally cast at 720F, you can start at say 770 F, and turn it down as the mold heats up.

[Martin Luber]

I never cared for dipping my moulds but the best tip I got here was preheating. It likely gives a more consistent bullet weight as well since the mold isn't chilling them as itvwarms.

The other great tip ( courtesy of the NOE website) was to pre clean with dawn and a toothbrush ( before heatin. You can soak molds with water at this point and they will dry out. Cleaning after heating concerns me for the possibility of warping. Don't know if true but possible.
Thanks

[Muddydogs]

My 6 cavity Lee molds like to be preheated to around 420 degrees measured with a NOE mold temp probe. I preheat on a hot plate and once the mold block is up to temp I turn the mold over and place the sprue cutter down so it can soak in a little extra heat. Once I start casting the first few pours of all 6 cavity's I run the sprue puddle large to make sure the mold is up to temp, after a few pours I reduce the size of the sprue puddle.

I find by monitoring my mold temp the pot temp isn't very critical, if my mold starts to cool I cast faster and if the mold gets to hot I slow down. Changes in mold temp happen faster then pot temp so I can make changes faster.

I was planning on adding a PID to my pot, was on the list to purchase one from the guy that sells them on this forum but had to wait a few months before he got some made. Well in this time I was doing some casting with my Lee's and a new NOE mold using the mold temp probe and came to realize that I had figured out how to adjust the Lee pot well enough over the years and the mold temp probe removed the need for precise pot temp adjustments or the need to worry about minor pot temp temp swings.

[GBertolet]

I don't care to preheat aluminum molds on a hotplate, as aluminum has a much lower melting point than iron, and I fear warping or other damage. I just dip the corner of the mold in the molten lead for 10-15 seconds, and you are ready to cast. Lee suggests this procedure. At first I didn't care for aluminum molds, but have grown to like them as, they tend to heat up, and cool quickly compared to metal molds, allowing me to cast at a faster cadence between pours. Also, as we are getting older, the lighter weight is less fatiguing on long casting sessions.

[Burnt Fingers]

I don't care to preheat aluminum molds on a hotplate, as aluminum has a much lower melting point than iron, and I fear warping or other damage. I just dip the corner of the mold in the molten lead for 10-15 seconds, and you are ready to cast. Lee suggests this procedure. At first I didn't care for aluminum molds, but have grown to like them as, they tend to heat up, and cool quickly compared to metal molds, allowing me to cast at a faster cadence between pours. Also, as we are getting older, the lighter weight is less fatiguing on long casting sessions.

Aluminum is a popular metal for making cooking pans. You'd have to have a really weird hotplate to get hot enough to melt aluminum.

I use a flat top hot plate to heat all my molds. I've had no problems.

[FLINTNFIRE]

I have melted lead on a hot plate , but if you keep your temperature setting on medium to low it will not cause any issues with molds , I never found dipping in my pot to be as easy as a hot plate , but different things work better for some then for others .

[blikseme300]

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chap...dleMusings.htm

Glen Fryxell nailed it when he observed the problems encountered with 6 cavity aluminium moulds.

Most problems arise because the aluminium mould heats up quicker than the steel sprue plate, which actually cools the alloy before it enters the cavity.

Read his observations for a greater insight.

ukrifleman

The Lee 6-cavity molds have an aluminum sprue plate. Glenn is correct about other aluminum molds that have steel sprue plates.

[36Power]

...If you PC your bullets, use the toaster oven you cure your PC in. Set it to 400 w/ the door open and sit your mold block on the rack, handles protruding out the open door. When I have to stop to clean up sprues or let the melt come back up to temp, I stick the mold back in the oven.

I have a tough 6 cavity mold to cast (.210 NLG) so I pretty much have to do it this way or I get sticking bullets and crappy fill out.