I let dot powders in the hopper sometimes. It's handy they have color dots.
I let dot powders in the hopper sometimes. It's handy they have color dots.
One round at a time.
Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.
I rarely empty my Dillon powder measures, usually only when I'm switching powders.
I use masking tape to identify the powder in the measure. Use a black marker to write the powder name on the tape, stick tape to measure.
NRA Benefactor.
I used to empty the powder measure after reloading. But now that I am shooting .45ACP so much (200+ rounds a week), I leave the measure filled with Unique as I try reloading at least 100-rounds each day.
Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA-Life, ARTCA, American Legion, & the South Cuyahoga Gun Club.
Caveat Emptor: Do not trust Cavery Grips/American Gripz/Prestige Grips/Stealth Grips from Clayton, NC. He will rip you off.
I also empty the PM after every session , and blow off and lube the press so it is ready for the next session.
It only takes a minute or two.
I usually empty the measure. As a safety backup I have printed 2” wide paper strips that I rubber band to the outside of the measure for all of the powders I’m likely to use. The paper completely surrounds the measure So the rubber band doesn’t contact the measure. They will melt into the plastic.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
Storing powder in a hopper for a day or two is ok. Long term storage will etch plastic and may cause fine flake or ball powder to clump. Then you may get inconsistent metering and may not detect. This has been my experience.
Long term powder storage should be in original canister in a vented cabinet (old file cabinets or cheap gun cabinets work) to prevent pressure buildup w limited insulating properties and containment in the event of a fire.
powders are hydroscopic. This means they absorb moisture out of the air. When in the hopper the lid is seldom air tight. This can allow moisture to enter the hopper and the powder will absorb this moisture if left in the hopper.
This can cause several issues. Moist powder weighs more than dry powder. This can effect charge weight.
Moist powder as mentioned clumps. This can cause Bridging of the drop tube and that's never a good thing.
When done with a loading session putting the powder back in the original bottle help prevent this moisture absorbsion. The lids fit tight.
As far as primer go I only get as many as I need for the session out of the package. This way I don't have to put them back in the package.
Leo
When I used the Fail Safe Rod, I could always slide it through a slot on the platform arm to free it. Then just pull the tool head and dump the powder while holding the rod and tool head together.
I confess: I have dumped a hopper full of Varget into a partially full 8 pound jug of H414. I empty it every time now.
Is it really true that Titegroup will quickly discolor the powder tube and in 2 to 3 days actually cause it to deform? I ask because I was about to buy some of that powder for my loads>
I label the PM and leave the powder in it.
Regards,
Gary
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |