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Thread: Frustrated with online BP resources

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Apr 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Not on a sidelock that I know of. Most inline muzzleloaders today use what is known as a "bare" primer system, but this has the primer sandwiched between the breech plug and a bolt face or similar. The only true open system for a 209 primer I know of, is the plunger system that Knight uses on many of their rifles. In this case the primer is held on a nipple with a plastic sleeve, and the plunger ignites the primer.

    It would be an interesting thing for a side lock. You would need two things for an open 209 system though. #1 you would need a replacement hammer that encases the rear of the primer during firing. #2, you would need a system that could hold a 209 primer in securely so that it will not fall out during carry, or gentle falls, yet is easy to extract the primer.

    The Mag spark system is ok, but the two big problems are that the bottom cup comes almost all the way up to the rim of the 209 primer. This is a lot of surface area to cause sticking, and worse, it makes it very difficult to grab the primer to pull it out. The other problem is the cap that secures the primer and houses the firing pin. This tiny cap can easily be lost, rendering your rifle nothing but a walking stick. For the Mag spark to be more viable, they need to make an ejection system for one. Just a simple wire deal that you pull to eject the primer would work fine. The cap issue is a tougher one. It needs to be secured somehow.
    Just as explained earlier spit in the cap and primer goes in your mouth = no sticking and if your apt to drop /lose stuff do like me Bring an extra . The many attributes are real and listed in my previous post /ED

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    May 2017
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    Thanks boys I appreciate the feedback - its generated some ideas
    gonna try this on a spare CVA sidelock
    1) drill the hammer face and fit a protruding firing pin (that is easily reversible so no harm done there)
    2) only intend doing this plinking and on the range so securing the primer is not an issue
    3) replace the nipple with what looks like the bottom half of the mag spark (might need to make a new nipple drum to accomodate it but thats doable)
    4) at the front of that mag spark like bottom bit I will cut a slot about 2mm - 2.5 mm wide and 2mm deep so we can get a finger nail or knife blade under the lip edge of the primer to eject it
    Those 15000 209's I inherited are just sitting there waiting to be used while we pay 11cents per shot for percussion caps
    This might not happen for some time but if it works I will post some pics
    Whats the catch ??? .....if those primers have enough juice to blow em out of the holder - could be a safety issue - so will shoot a few off the test sled first.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I am pretty sure without the Magspark (acorn like top) other than using up 209 primers you will eliminate most all benefits of this type ignition system with the added excitement of not knowing when not if , pain is coming . Shooting off a sled is just delaying the result /sorry Ed

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I shoot TIPPLE 7, 777in my flintlock, yes flintlocks, and I prime with 4F, black and ignition is positive, instant. I have even used it in the pan for priming and it will ignite.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edward View Post
    I am pretty sure without the Magspark (acorn like top) other than using up 209 primers you will eliminate most all benefits of this type ignition system with the added excitement of not knowing when not if , pain is coming . Shooting off a sled is just delaying the result /sorry Ed
    Ed
    Would you mind elaborating on what is gonna cause the pain? This experiment has not happened yet out of caution not laziness.
    If those shotgun primers have enough more juice in them to blow the hammer back and perforate my hatbrim when they become a projectile - then I need a better plan

    To date I have decided that screwing that little lid on and off each shot was not really worth the trouble - just looking for a more effective way to use these things up is all.
    If you can help ....please do

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    The cap by design prevents blowback and erosion of the nipple common with caps. I have never intentionally set out to bypass the containment of the primer . It would seem without containment the possibility of particles of metal not covered by my hammer could indeed ventilate your hat/eye . Look at a percussion cap and note the difference in size with a 209 primer , maybe you could modify the hammer to contain the 209 , I just use the Magspark as designed and have no worry's as to outcome . My opinion only,yours might differ but I go thru 60-70 rds a week long range and it"s not a bother but maybe I"m just used to the routine and the outcome .The firing pin in the cap s what fires it and without the cap how you make it fire is something I also don"t know but I don"t have all the answers , I just use the thing and it works for me/Thanks Ed
    Last edited by Edward; 07-19-2020 at 10:39 PM.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Boogieman's Avatar
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    On my wife's TC Renegade I replaced the nipple with a musket cap nipple. Musket caps are hotter than #11 caps.
    The 3 people a man must be able to trust completely are his gunsmith his doctor & his preacher ..,his gunsmith for his short term health ,his doctor for long term health ,and his preacher incase one of the others mess up.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check