Load DataLee PrecisionSnyders JerkyTitan Reloading
Inline FabricationRepackboxWidenersRotoMetals2
MidSouth Shooters Supply Reloading Everything
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 39

Thread: Do you oil your moulds for storage?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Capital Region NY
    Posts
    680

    Do you oil your moulds for storage?

    I have stored moulds in toolboxes with silica bags and sometimes vpi stuff. I notice that moulds stored on my desk will get flash rust in the bottom of the cavity, like moisture sinks and condenses during daily temperature swings.

    I didn't like to oil them die to required cleaning before use but now I am considering it. I found on the Noe site to scrub with dawn and then preheat on a stove. This has worked well.


    Use of slip 2000 degreaser before heating worked too well and resulted in flash rust in 10 minutes. Thoughts? Thanks

  2. #2
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    Here's my method..........one method out of an infinite number of other methods, so this isn't carved in stone.

    When preparing molds for long term storage (more than a couple of weeks) I start with a warm mold at the end of my casting session.
    Using a flat blade screw driver, I place a dob of RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease) on top of each hole in the closed spure plate. The heat of the mold will melt the grease instantly and it will flow into the mold and throughout the vent lines, cavities, etc. After the mold cools off, I wipe off the excess from the outside of the mold and put it in its box.

    Because this is done while the mold is still warm, there's NO moisture present. The grease will return to a semi-solid state when it cools.

    When that mold is returned to use it must be de-greased. That's the price you pay for NEVER having rust problems. Yes it is a chore to de-grease the mold, .....oh well. A few minutes spent removing the grease is a small price to pay.

    If I will be using that same mold within a week or two, I follow the same procedure but use Kroil instead of RIG. It is slightly easier to remove and works fine for short term storage.

    I live in the mid-Atlantic and you can WATCH ferrous metal rust. Tools are a lifetime purchase, take care of them and you only have to buy them once.

    I know my method involves more work but it has never failed me.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Dapaki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Minne-Snow-Ta!
    Posts
    600
    Aluminum Molds, no worries.

    Steel molds, smoke the cavities and use synthetic 2 stroke oil on the rest, very sparingly. No rust.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,298
    I live in humid central. I liberally coat all my steel molds with oil or fluid film (FF for longer term storage). I just have to degrease them prior to use. If I don't treat the molds, sure as can be, rust will appear.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    easternshore of va.
    Posts
    2,998
    I do oil molds for storage all of them even brass and aluminum at least the hardware . Yep it takes a bit of cleanup before use but I’m ok with that . I keep the molds in The climate controlled Part of the house so I only do it if I’m not going to cast with them for at least a month or so.

  6. #6
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    12,474
    No but they would only rust if I left them on the lawn for a couple of days. I live in a dry climate.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    304
    I started placing these inside the mold boxes and stopped using oil. I keep them in air conditioned room. Been just a few months since I started so will let you know if it works in about a year:

    Zerust Rust Prevention Plastabs 1" x 3" - Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ULSW6FS..._2xmaFb96CC24V

    I also store some molds (together) in a plastic ammo can. I use their big brother in that can (double sided tape attached to roof of can):

    Zerust VC2-2 NoRust Vapor Capsule - Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T1H7IA..._RAmaFb4MHABWW

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Win94ae's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    585
    Yes, all of them.

  9. #9
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    All of mine are Iron blocks.
    If I'm going to use one again fairly soon, I hose it off with spray can oil after it cools down
    and put it & the handles in a zip lock bag..

    After a hot, humid summer where they are stored in the garage- and after I had one ruin, I got mad.
    Now if I'm not going to use a mold for a long time, I put it in a jar full of cheap motor oil with a screw on lid.
    So far, I haven't lost another one by doing that.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

    dragon813gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in SE PA
    Posts
    9,989
    I had to move the molds into the basement of my house which had a dehumidifier. No central air so there’s no other area that’s humidity controlled. All of my molds are brass or aluminum so I’m only concerned about the sprue plates and hardware. They get a coating of synthetic two stroke oil and it seems to be working. Everything rusts here. As long as it’s not heavy I’m not really concerned.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    over the hill, out in the woods and far away
    Posts
    10,169
    On iron molds I use mineral oil USP from the pharmacy. This prevents rust, but sublimes away when blocks are pre-heated on a hotplate. I do the same to steel sprue plates on my aluminum blocks.

    Kano Kroil is good for short-term storage and is driven away in pre-heating.
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Aluminum - no

    Brass - no

    Steel (only own 2 of them, never any more!) - no

    Steel/Fe molds just do not rust here in the dry desert Southwest!


    banger

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy


    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Green Swamp, FL
    Posts
    198
    Everything gets sprayed with acf-50 here, steel, brass or aluminum, it all corrodes down here. Quick spray with brake clean and it's ready to go.

  14. #14
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    Just lightly coat the mold & cavities with Liquid Wrench L512 Dry Lubricant with CERFLON - 11 oz. (wipe the excess out of the cavities)

    when you next use it just start casting.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master





    SSGOldfart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    2,178
    I use kroll,and clean before using seems to work here. Why does the oil can rust out?? Everything rust here.!!!!!!!
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    3,599
    I have bad humidity here and spray my iron molds with rust preventative spray and put in ziplock bag after casting session if I'm not sure I'm gonna use it again within a couple days. I use several different things, fluid film, sta-bil rust stopper, barricade, just got a spray can of Lucas red tacky spray grease to try. I have to clean mold off with brake cleaner or carb cleaner and old tooth brush before use but at least I'm not dealing with rusty moulds. Ive learned expensive lessons in the past with rusted reloading dies.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    poppy42's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,563
    Steel molds yes! Definitely! I’d much rather spend time cleaning oil off then having to buy a new mold because it rusted and got ruined.

    Oh and I’ve used, Lite weight oil, tranny fluid, rem oil, Etc
    Last edited by poppy42; 07-04-2020 at 07:21 PM. Reason: I hate auto correct
    Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    368
    I try to scrub the mold clean after use and oil them. I usually cast about 1k+ of any boolit so I will have a good supply and might not need that mold for a month. At this time I use about 30 molds.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,785
    I oil my iron moulds with remoil. Spray liberally and wipe the excess off. When it comes time to use it again I heat it and use it. I generally give it a spritz of lighter fluid once it's hot. I've found that on moulds that are to casting temp but have any oil contamination, I can open the sprue plate and fill the cavities with lighter fluid and it will boil and really scrub the oil out. Drop the fluid and give the mould time to dry and resume casting. It works great and doesn't drop the mould temperature much. I lube with a carpenters pencil.

    I'm going to try mineral oil next on outposts suggestion I think.

  20. #20
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    86
    I dunk all my molds in brownells RP-2, regardless of mold material. I don't want a steel screw rusting in my aluminum molds either.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check