Do you oil your moulds for storage?

[Ed_Shot]

For many years I have liberally coated my steel molds with penetrating oil after each use. A quick spray with break cleaner and they are they are good to go for the next session.

[dale2242]

Yes, The iron ones get a light coating of Remoil.
It is humid here in SW Oregon in the winter...dale

[JerryCan]

I put a light coat of any thin oil, remoil, WC light oil. Etc

[OS OK]

"Nuff said..."

[John Boy]

Coat your molds the same as one should do with firearms to prevent rust .... Eezox

[leadhead]

How about sealing them in those vacuum seal bags that you suck all the air
out of? Sounds like this would be the best way.
Denny

[dragon813gt]

Corners are not conducive to vacuum seal bags. Even if they seal at the time there’s a good chance the seal will break over time. You’d have to put a desiccant pack in w/ the mold. The sealers do not remove all air.

[Winger Ed.]

Corners are not conducive to vacuum seal bags.

I used one of them until it broke. Then switched over to zip-lock.
I always wrap a oily rag or paper towel around the mold to protect the bag from the corners.
Sort of low-tech, but it works.

[lightman]

When finished casting I spray mine down with whatever oil I use on my guns. I'll hose them down with brake cleaner to remove the oil before using them again.

[Petrol & Powder]

Vacuum sealers don't create a perfect vacuum. There will still be moisture present, albeit less moisture but some.

Oil or grease prevents water and oxygen from reaching the surface of the metal. Placing the oil or grease on the mold while it's still rather warm will ensure all of the water has been driven off by the heat. It's low tech but it works.
And it's cheap.

[jonp]

I spray mine down with Ballitstol. I clean off with Dawn when I cast but I don't have many iron molds, mostly the AL Lee which serve me well.

[mattw]

Living in Illinois, one must oil everything! Summer is so humid and if you heat your shop at all winter is humid. I use the Lucas synthetic gun oil or Gibbs. Clean with brake cleaner before casting. I store them in Plano boxes with VCI paper as well.

[gon2shoot]

Years ago I learned that a light coat of paraffin on a warm mold (ingot mold too) seals them up and goes away when heated the next time.

[OutHuntn84]

Years ago I learned that a light coat of paraffin on a warm mold (ingot mold too) seals them up and goes away when heated the next time.

Sage wisdom right there folks!

[LenH]

I bought some old Lyman molds from my old mentor before he passed. He was selling everything off so he wife wouldn't have too.

I got on out to cast with and the old guy put grease on those molds after casting and wrapped them in brown paper. I don't go that deep but will spray them with what ever gun
oil I have around and spry with break cleaner before casting again.

[gwpercle]

I did until I discovered Spray on Dry Lubricants , the brand doesn't seem to matter , as long as the words Teflon , dry film coating and PTFE show up somewhere on the can ...they are basically all the same . A micro thin film of Teflon particles is left on the metal surface ...so far it has prevented all rust and when time to cast does not contaminate the cavities so it doesn't need to be removed .
In fact , it is a great mould release agent if you have a cavity that is balky just spray a coating into the cavity and let dry ...after that boolits will almost jump out when you open the mould !!!
I live in Louisiana , home of heat & humidity , and my casting building does not have any insulation , heat or a/c ...Ergo the moulds are subject to humidity ... been spraying moulds , presses , boolit sizer & anything that usually rusts out there with dry lube, 3-4 years now and so far no rusting of metal parts .
I actually didn't think a film of dry lube would prevent rust but in this case it does quite well .
Gary

[ascast]

I NEVER oil molds, I put them in 50 cal GI ammo cans, while still hot if possible. I have moisture absorbing stuff in there. I never have rust issue. repeat NEVER. Needless to say ( but I am saying it anyway) I don't spend anytime degreasing cleaning and all that nonsense. I grab a mold, mount handles, and go casting. Good tight GI ammo cans will run between $10-20 each. I have molds that have been in cans over 40 years-no oil, no rust. All depends on how you want to spend your time.

[too many things]

kroil works we had a sticky at one time and dont clean off it will cast fine never had one rust and never had a boolit stick

[Jack Stanley]

I never oil them , they are stored in an ammo can with VPI crystals added here and there .

I have been known to add some Kroil to a mold from time to time if the mold isn't casting quite right . But I'll cast with it before I store it like that for longer term .

Jack