Small crack Trapdoor Carbine stock

[CoRifleman]

Gents -

This is an original TD Carbine I purchased from trapdoorcollector last year.

I've found there looks to be a small crack just ahead of the saddle ring rear screw.

My concern is that crack growing through firing. I don't fire the rifle very often, but don't want to damage it when I do.

Thoughts on how to address this?

Thank you all

[Shawlerbrook]

Might want to take it apart to see if the crack goes all the way through the wood. If so, some super glue injected from the inside and then clamping it tight.

[Battis]

I've repaired several similar cracks in my Trapdoors. As suggested by Shawlerbrook, take the rifle completely apart and see what's going on. I use West Systems 2 part epoxy because I have some (it's pricey). I've opened some cracks slightly to get the epoxy all the way in, then clamp them tightly. I have a Trapdoor that split at the stock when I picked it up. Someone had glued the cracked stock with regular wood glue that didn't hold - that's why I use epoxy.

[CoRifleman]

Thanks guys. I have some of the West Marine stuff that I've had for probably 5 years. I don't know what the shelf life of it is.

I'll look through my epoxies.

Glad to hear this isn't a death sentence for this carbine.

[KCSO]

Cinnamon powder makes a good dye for the epoxy and will help fill.

[CoRifleman]

Cinnamon powder makes a good dye for the epoxy and will help fill.

Interesting!!!

[303Guy]

One trick I have used to repair cracks and rotten wood is polyurethane resin diluted with general purpose thinner. It soaks into cracks and rotten wood quite well. Too much dilution and there won't be much resin to hold but as a primer it soaks in better then follow with less dilution. External excess can be wiped away with thinners but that might damage the finish. Other than that, I've used clear Pratley epoxy mixed with ground particle board to repair a rotten rifle stock and that has held intact for many years but I had to get all the oil out of the wood first.

[largom]

Learned something new

[Gtek]

I bought a little bag of those not cheap threaded brass rods years ago that supposedly duplicated the Arsenal repair pins. After glue job maybe come up from bottom through/under trigger guard into upper piece to secure and stabilize.

[elk hunter]

I have used epoxy to fix cracked stocks by spreading the crack with a wedge where possible. Sometimes the wedge is only a toothpick. Cleaning the crack with acetone, then mixing up the epoxy and thinning it buy heating with a hair dryer and using very low air pressure blow the thinned epoxy into the crack being very careful as the epoxy can fly off and get on things you don't want it on. Wipe off the excess, then if possible wrap the cracked area with waxed paper and clamp by wrapping surgical tubing over the waxed paper.

[oconeedan]

What Elk Hunter said. You can also use lacquer thinner or brake cleaner to clean inside the crack, try to wedge open with tip of tooth pick. Let it dry very well.
For glue, I would use thin ca (super glue). There are different viscosities, you have thick, medium, and thin. Thin is almost like alcohol. Remove the tooth pick and let the crack close. A drop or two from the inside will wick the glue right into the crack. Pinch it shut using latex gloves, it should stick within a minute or two.
The West Marine epoxy may be very good, I haven't tried it and so can't say which is better. I have successfully used thin ca glue several times.
Dan

[CoRifleman]

Thanks all. I took the barrel/receiver out of the stock. The crack stops where you see it. Meaning I can't follow it into the thicker block of wood inside the stock near and under the rear tang at all. I can't get it to flex or open even the slightest if applying pressure in any direction.

Does this qualify as stable and keep an eye onit? I don't want to damage the finish trying to treat it from the outside.

[jblee10]

All the above methods are great tips. It appears to run into the screw hole for the saddle ring. I would think about also gluing a dowel into the screw hole and drilling a new hole before reassembly. It may help stabilize it further. Is it possible the screw hole has been doweled before and the screw hole wasn't drilled big enough before replacing the screw?

[Texas by God]

I think that shooting won't enlarge the crack but hanging it on your horse by the saddle ring WILL.

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[CoRifleman]

All the above methods are great tips. It appears to run into the screw hole for the saddle ring. I would think about also gluing a dowel into the screw hole and drilling a new hole before reassembly. It may help stabilize it further. Is it possible the screw hole has been doweled before and the screw hole wasn't drilled big enough before replacing the screw?

Possible. There is a crack at the foreend that someone previously drove two small pins into - I suppose it's possible they had their hands in here as well.

It's called a stable crack. Your decision about whether to pin or not. A pin with epoxy will pretty much stop any further cracking there. Maybe able to pin from inside the mortise of the rear bar attachment. Remove bar and inspect. Hardware stores have all manner of threaded brass screws. Pick one that has enough threaded shank and use that if a pin is practical or wanted. 1/8" diameter pin should be plenty strong enough. Use acetone thinned epoxy. Drill hole at angle from inside mortise. Measure depth and cut pin to length, just a little shorter than depth. Use thinned epoxy for crack and pin. I used your photo and added line for possible route of drill and pin (orange line). Just an option and 2 cents worth.

Thank you. When I took the rifle down, I didn't remove the bar. It's in there real snug and I'm concerned with making a little problem a big problem. I may throw some time at it tomorrow and see if that bar will pop out.

I think that shooting won't enlarge the crack but hanging it on your horse by the saddle ring WILL.

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No horse here - I'm in the clear

[303Guy]

So epoxy can be thinned with acetone? Good to know.

[CoRifleman]

Well boys, I massaged the ring hardware out. I can't get the crack to move, and cant access it from the inside. I know I might be playing with fire, but I'm going to leave well enough alone and keep my eye on it. I appreciate all the insight and advice - but if I can't access it from behind, I'm not willing to risk altering the exterior finish for something that is a-ok for now. And I won't hang it on my saddle. Thank you all again.

[Shawlerbrook]

Corifle, I agree with your assessment. Not cracked all the way thru and stable, like fouronesix said. It probably was cracked for decades.