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Thread: H die floating punch holder dimensions

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold KEY's Avatar
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    H die floating punch holder dimensions

    Hello, new member, new to swaging, i recently built two presses modeled after corbins csp-2 mega mite, i took some liberties with roller bearing size and the cam lever design, but took great pains to ensure that i could use corbin dies should manufacture be outside my skill/time available. My primary purpose was to replace my old lee reloading press with something that could do more than just reload, so i spent about 500$ in materials to build these two, i think they turned out pretty well, considering i have an entire machine shop at my disposal, thanks to my awesome boss. My last hurdle to start making swaging dies is getting dimensions for building the floating punch holder that most corbin dies use. If a member here has the ability to get accurate measurements and cares to share them, i would greatly apreciate a drawing, even if it isnt a pro quality sketch. I have used a napkin or paper plate once or twice myself. Here are some pics of the presses. I repurposed truck axles and spiders to build the handle/cam assembly so handle has adjustability for optimum comfort, however the dies are set. At least within 12.85 degrees. Hardened splines should outlast me i figure. One good thing to happen with a failed rear end. Lol. Now i need a new reloadng bench too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20200521_100944.jpg   715.jpg   717.jpg   721.jpg   731.jpg  


  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    Welcome to the Castboolits sir.
    Those presses look very professional. On pink

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    I have several "H" type punch holders. I am away and won't get home til late Monday. I'll measure length, OD, ID, & threading when I get home. If you built those presses you can machine this holder. While you are doing it, make 3 of them so you won't lose your adjustments when setting up for a particular bullet.

    Bob
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    Boolit Mold KEY's Avatar
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    Thank you, i stole alot of time from my family to get them right. Although you can probably tell that although i am professional machinest, i am only a functional welder. Lol.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Dave Corbins "H" punch holders are have a threaded pocket on the working end. There is a threaded retainer that holds the punch in the punch holder loosely so it self centers, so the holder consists of these two pieces. An alternative is to use Richard Corbins method which is a little easier to make. You make a .250 through hole and machine a pocket in the working end to receive the punch. A long .250 drawbar inserted from the top secures the punch in the pocket. Either way works. I have Dave's version cuz they were available. Richard's version is used with all my Walnut Hill dies and they work well too.

    Bob
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  6. #6
    Boolit Mold KEY's Avatar
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    I apreciate you taking the time to do the measurements, i looked through the entire swaging forum for answers before asking about the punch holder. Everyone seems to love the rimfire cases. Lol. What do you swage? I am either going to start with .310 85 grn pistol, or a 6.5 mm. 125 grn. Rifle, havent decided yet.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I think I swage most calibers from .224 through .510. Just finished a batch of 40 S&W cases turned into 41 Mag jackets. The project before that was shearing rims off of 30-30 cases to make .416 rifle bullet jackets. Usually my projects are to make jackets you just can't go out and buy. I buy whatever tooling available which isn't much, and make the rest. I make mistakes and do it better next time. I am getting so old now I will probably never shoot all the bullets I make. It's just fun figuring out ways to make them. Sorry I forgot to measure the punch holders yesterday. I'll get to it today.

    Bob
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Here are Dave Corbin's "H" floating punch holder dimensions. The main body is a 1 1/2 in. rod that is 6 1/4 in. long. 5 inches is threaded 1 1/2 - 12 & 1 inch is knurled. The working end has a pocket
    1 inch deep & flat at the bottom. This flat takes the linear force & must be flat. It's OK if there is a dimple in the center from the drill point. The pocket is bored to the proper diameter to be tapped
    7/8 - 14. The hole needs to be bored 13/16 or .812. The punch retainer threads into this threaded pocket. It can be made from a 7/8 - 14 bolt with about .563 length under the head. The underside of the head must be turned flat and threads relieved so it rest flat on the punch holder when screwed in. A .642 in. hole is drilled through the center of this retainer and the head is milled down until it is .250 thick. If I havn't been clear enough, ask.

    Bob
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  9. #9
    Boolit Mold KEY's Avatar
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    Thank you so much. I did have a couple questions about the function of the holder. In another thread someone posted the dimensions of what apears to be a core swage or wadcutter h die set, the punch dimensions for that suggest that it is very loose in the side clearences on the punch base to the .812 inner diameter of the punch holder and over .02 side clearence between the .621 punch body diameter and inner diameter of the retainer nut. The length of the punch base was shown as .51 tall. This suggests that this punch was designed to be nested inside the lower die self aligned, then be secured in the floating holder by the nut that will bottom out on punch base rather than the shoulder of the nut to the end of the floating holder. Your description of the nuts threaded section at .563 length suggests other dies having a punch base that is shorter than .437 which would allow nut to bottom out on its shoulder against the floating holder. ? Do these punches, which freely float have a tighter side clearence to the nut .642 inner diameter hole? Perhaps .637-.640 so they will accuratly self align with each stroke? Sorry about long question, i am just trying to understand the functionality of different punches in this holder.

  10. #10
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    I don't have a H press but do have a S press. The punch holder nut bottoms out against the shoulder on the punch, not the die. This allows the length of the large portion of the punch to not be a critical measurement. As you said, leave the punch loose and align it using the die, then tighten the bolt to hold the punch.

    Only one retaining nut comes with the punch holder so it has to accommodate quite a few different punch diameters. I would need to look for sure, but I am pretty sure the retaining nut is bored out and not just a flat nut. The large part of the punch will be longer than the bored out portion of the retaining nut so it can be tightened against the punch holder. All the punches will have a standard diameter that fits in the punch holder, and a pretty consistent shoulder to end of punch length. This is how one holder works for multiple punches. The nut is pretty much just a retaining collar.
    Last edited by garandsrus; 07-09-2020 at 06:57 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold KEY's Avatar
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    Ok, that is mostsly what i was asking, thank you for confiming that, however, Bob makes a point of saying that the surface of the nut where the threading ends needs to be turned flat to rest on the holder, makes me wonder if some of the dies he has use a different strategy to center and or float. Or maybe i am just reading too much into it. Lol. Thank you for all the information guys!

    Kent

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check