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Thread: Glad I'm not the only person trimming 44 magnum brass.

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Glad I'm not the only person trimming 44 magnum brass.

    In the new handloader 326, there is an article on the 44 magnum. And on page 53, Brian Pearce references trimming cases for consistency. I was somewhat shocked as many here admonish the practice. Also there was a reference to using cases from one lot. Well that was interesting too because so many have touted of using variety head stamped brass (I've done it myself).

    Glad to see I'm not the only person who prefers revolver brass of at least the same headstamp and trimmed for consistency.


    Post script, I did enjoy the article and am going to try his suggestion of 6.0-6.5 bullseye with the 429421 bullet. With the exception I'll use the RCBS 44-245-SWC.

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    id consider the source. brian pearce is an arogant tool! My buddy knows him and will tell you he does a lot more jaw flapping that handloading. 99 percent of what he shoots is freebee factory ammo. Buddy said his daughter has done more handloading then pearce. Now if you want to trim handgun brass then have at it. Me? Id rather spend the time shooting.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
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    6.5 of red dot/promo with a 429421 has shot well for me.
    Paper targets aren't your friends. They won't lie for you and they don't care if your feelings get hurt.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I also like 6.0~6.5 gr. Red Dot/Promo under a 429421 in a 44 Mag case.

  5. #5
    I'm A Honcho!
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    Unless you have a pile of Hornady brass mixed into your brass...there’s only two headstamps that I segregate. RP are always long and it’s a crapshoot on Hornady. Some spot on and some short.

    I have never trimmed a piece of 44 brass and my sorting technique has proven useful in my 44 reloading.

    Next time you’re bored. Take out calipers and confirm for yourself.
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  6. #6
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    Many years ago when I had a target PPC revolver, a 6" M29 and M1911 that possibly could tell the difference between trimmed and untrimmed cases I test the idea using a Ransom Rest solidly mounted on a 55 gal barrel of cement. Testing was done at 50 yards with 12 shot strings from the revolvers (a Power PPC custom built on a M10 S&W 38 SPL & a out of the box M29) and 14 shot test strings from the M1911 (a match conditioned Colt M1911 Series 70 45 ACP). After numerous test strings of with each firearm using trimmed and untrimmed case I could see no difference in group sizes or chronographed data between the trimmed and untrimmed cases.

    I have seldom trimmed any handgun cases [3840 & 44-40 being exceptions] anymore and certainly not any 44 magnum cases.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy

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    I shoot bullseye pistol, and the vast majority of Master and High Master classified bullseye pistol shooters never trim brass - and they all look for every single advantage they can get from any technique they can.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    The only brass I trim are for center fire caliber rifles. Why? Uniform cartridge length in the chamber to the leade or to the leading bore cuts
    Regards
    John

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    In over 50 years shooting and reloading for the. 44 magnum, I ve never seen the need to trim my brass!
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    In the new handloader 326, there is an article on the 44 magnum. And on page 53, Brian Pearce references trimming cases for consistency. I was somewhat shocked as many here admonish the practice. Also there was a reference to using cases from one lot. Well that was interesting too because so many have touted of using variety head stamped brass (I've done it myself).

    Glad to see I'm not the only person who prefers revolver brass of at least the same headstamp and trimmed for consistency.


    Post script, I did enjoy the article and am going to try his suggestion of 6.0-6.5 bullseye with the 429421 bullet. With the exception I'll use the RCBS 44-245-SWC.
    Any new brass be it 38/357, 44/44mag or 45 colt that I’m going to use for max loads gets trimmed. I have found that Starline brass has had the most inconsistent lengths when new.
    It’s one of those things that some do some don’t. I guess if in the big scheme of things it doesn’t make a hill of beans difference then it’s my time that I’m wasting no one else’s.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Interesting responses. So this question is for those that don't trim their handgun brass, 44 or otherwise. Do you not crimp? How do you deal with the occasional buckled cases when you crimp a long piece of brass? Do you reset your crimp die for each brand or batch of brass you load?

  12. #12
    Boolit Master marshall623's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    Interesting responses. So this question is for those that don't trim their handgun brass, 44 or otherwise. Do you not crimp? How do you deal with the occasional buckled cases when you crimp a long piece of brass? Do you reset your crimp die for each brand or batch of brass you load?
    I'm going to try trimming, I've been getting a few bulged cases , plus found a couple that were over max length .

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Jesus said ( Come unto me, all ye that labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest ) Matt. 11:28

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    If your loading jacketed bullets the case length is more critical when using a standard roll crimp .
    With cast and a proper crimp groove revolver bullets, seating to the center of the crimp groove with a case of average length I have no problems . This is not the best way to get the most consistent ammunition but it is the most expedient way for my twice a week range ammo at 25 yards I can't tell the difference.
    The Lee collet crimp die is another way to make case length less critical and still have a good crimp.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    i reload my 357mag brass till it splits.did try trimming cases but found they didnt seem to get longer with my loads so i stopped wasting my time ,but i trim my 223/308/30-30 and 45-70 brass.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    Interesting responses. So this question is for those that don't trim their handgun brass, 44 or otherwise. Do you not crimp? How do you deal with the occasional buckled cases when you crimp a long piece of brass? Do you reset your crimp die for each brand or batch of brass you load?
    I have found that case neck tension is much more important than any crimping. I found this out when I first started playing around with a Smith 329PD. Once I reduced the diameter of the case expander, my boolits quit jumping crimp. I have never had a bulged or buckled case. I do not adjust the crimp die unless the first case comes out without much crimp. I load on a Dillon Square Deal B.
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  16. #16
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    well I shot ppc and bullseye for over 20 years. Was always in the top 5 in every match I shot in. Ive benched more ammo out of handguns then some have shot period. If your measuring groups with a caliper and .01 of an inch matters then go for it. I guess some shoot 50 rounds a week. I shoot at least a 1000 a week in the summer. If I had to trim handgun brass id be up all night trimming or would have to hire an assistant (cause I sure aint getting my wife to do it). I load to shoot not shoot to load. If its a waste of time I quit doing it 30 years ago. What ever makes you feel good though! Me I feel good when the gun goes bang not when I look at 50 pretty 44 mags I spent hours loading.

  17. #17
    Boolit Man
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    How do you get consistant roll crimp when the case length is not consistent between different brass?

    Lee factory pistol crimp die is a no-go with my cast bullets.



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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by hlvabeach View Post
    How do you get consistant roll crimp when the case length is not consistent between different brass?

    Lee factory pistol crimp die is a no-go with my cast bullets.



    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    You don’t!

    Even with a collet or taper you still have to watch whether the crimp is over, under or in the crimp groove. I opt for a collet in most cases. It will make a crimp that will hold and give you good combustion if you are on the bottom edge of the charge or needed a magnum primer and DIDNT have any.
    You never know how you rank amongst men 'til you have seen what will break another man.
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master Rodfac's Avatar
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    For the most part, I don't bother trimming any straight wall handgun brass....but like another poster, I've found that Starline brass (which is my #1 choice), especially in .32 H&R & to some extent, .357 Magnum, can vary considerably in length.

    I've also found that the smaller the caliber, the more critical is the condition of the bullet and the consistency of the crimp. In my experience, as the caliber increases, the effects of slight imperfections decreases (crimp depth, slight bullet base anomalies etc.). I've often wondered if this was the reason that .41, .44 special and .44 magnum loads were so easy to find. YMMv, of course as all guns are individuals, but I do even up .32 & .357 Starline brass before loading. Rod
    Rod

  20. #20
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    most bullets have a crimp grove plenty big enough to allow some variation in length. If you crimp so hard that it causes chambering problems with untrimmed brass your no doubt over crimping. Bottom line is a 44 mag is a 100 yard game gun. You surely aren't going to see accuracy suffer so much that a kill shot is no longer a kill shot. Last I heard there isn't 44mag bench rest competition. The 44 mag is a hunting handgun at my house. What cured me from being so anal was the 475s and 500s. I spent DAYS chasing one inch groups with them. Beating the crap out of myself on the bench. For what? Smallest thing I shot with them were deer and the largest were bison and water buffalo. 99 percent of my hunting with handgun was standing on my own two feet shooting offhand and theres NOBODY I know that can shoot a one inch group off hand with a 500 Linebaugh! A 2 inch group is all you need for any wheel gun hunting of big game. Your time is much better spent perfecting your off hand shooting then bench shooting a gun to get tiny groups. I will chase accuracy on a bolt action rifle used to shoot out at 300 yards or farther off a rest but even then it can sometimes be a waste of time. Like I said I load to shoot. Id much rather spend time shooting then trimming brass to get a 1/10 of an inch better group when the only time your going to see it is off that bench. I don't hunt off a bench and I don't shoot competition off a bench. A guy that's perfected his off hand shooting and trigger control using a gun that shoots 2 inch groups is going to be A LOT more effective then someone who spends there time in the loading room. Id dare say ive killed more or at least as much big game with a 44 mag as anyone here. Can you tell me you've actually missed an animal because you didn't trim brass!!! I sure haven't. My misses were my fault not the loads.
    Quote Originally Posted by bluejay75 View Post
    You don’t!

    Even with a collet or taper you still have to watch whether the crimp is over, under or in the crimp groove. I opt for a collet in most cases. It will make a crimp that will hold and give you good combustion if you are on the bottom edge of the charge or needed a magnum primer and DIDNT have any.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check