Fixed Sight Question

[jimb16]

I agree with Texasbygod. I have found that light reflection of one side of the front sight can cause you to shoot off by that much. Try either smoking or sight blacking the right side of the sight and see if it makes a difference. If it does, a more permanent cure can be had by painting the right side of the front sight with a clear dullecoat paint from you local hobby shop and it doesn't permanently alter the firearm in any way.

[JoeJames]

I agree with Texasbygod. I have found that light reflection of one side of the front sight can cause you to shoot off by that much. Try either smoking or sight blacking the right side of the sight and see if it makes a difference. If it does, a more permanent cure can be had by painting the right side of the front sight with a clear dullecoat paint from you local hobby shop and it doesn't permanently alter the firearm in any way.

For places on the front or rear sight where the bluing has rubbed off, I use a plain old sharpie for a temporary fix.

[Gray Fox]

I have used the black Sharpie as a matter of course on my stainless S&W revolvers on both the front and rear sights. I often darken the entire rear sight groove in an attempt to reduce glare. It is a lot easier with matte finishes, of course. It helps to have a new sharp one to get in the spots on the face of the rear sight. GF

[JoeJames]

I have used the black Sharpie as a matter of course on my stainless S&W revolvers on both the front and rear sights. I often darken the entire rear sight groove in an attempt to reduce glare. It is a lot easier with matte finishes, of course. It helps to have a new sharp one to get in the spots on the face of the rear sight. GF

A Sharpie is also good to blacken the TV tube front sights that are now the fad. I am old school I reckon, but I prefer a straight black patridge sight.

[Petrol & Powder]

I've never had great luck with the ink from a "Sharpie" remaining on a front sight. Flat black paint seems to be a bit more durable.

[PBSmith]

Thanks, all, for your comments and suggestions. I've been experimenting. I thought for sure Alfadan's recommendation of grabbing more trigger would solve the problem, but it didn't.

I always set up in the shade, so sight glare is not a problem.

The crimps I've been shooting are fairly stout, and increasing them hasn't moved groups.

I've got the grips I want and would rather not go to something else, though might still revert to those horrible stock factories to see what happens.

Wadcutters loaded with a target dose of the traditional fast-burning pistol powders such as Bullseye will shoot to the sights. While not as accurate, I've also hit to aim with about 4.5 grains of HS-6. That, too, is a fairly mild load, and does not group as well as Bullseye. I will try different wadcutters, but those tried to date seem to all shoot left when pushed beyond target level. I'd prefer to be shooting the wadcutter at full charge (3.5 grains Bullseye).

Have not yet done The Barrel Twist, and in all likelihood won't. The barrel is pinned.

[onelight]

I used to shoot a lot of black powder revolvers and few were any where close to point of aim with the factory sights , some guys get good at Kentucky windage I got good at hand cutting dovetails for front sights .

[eveready]

If you're shooting two handed try using a little tighter grip with your left hand. That may move the shot to the right.

[PBSmith]

If you're shooting two handed try using a little tighter grip with your left hand. That may move the shot to the right.

I have been shooting with a two-handed grip. Your suggestion is certainly worth trying. Thanks for offering it.

[35 Whelen]

I get the impression you're new to fixed sight revolvers. If you have a similar S&W revolver with adjustable sights, I bet if you check the rear sight, it's not centered and is probably adjusted to the right of center. Next time you're super bored get on Gunbroker and browse used revolvers with adjustable sights, paying close attention to the position of the rear sight blade. I did and found it amazing how many of them were adjusted right of center. Just a few of the many I found-



Why is this? Because most right handed shooters will shoot left with handguns.

I know this from experience because when I first got into shooting handguns at more than a few yards distance, I pounded and bent front sights trying to "correct" points of impact on revolvers. I finally realized that I was shooting left, not the revolvers. Most of the problem, I found, was that I wasn't not following through. Follow Through is difficult for me to explain, but the information in this link does a good job.

This is not to say that some revolvers don't shoot left. I have a fixed-sighted Ruger Police Service Six that shot left no matter what I did or how I held and shot it. I finally took a good close look at the barrel and found it hadn't been fully torqued at the factory, and discovered that this was due to a burr of metal between the frame and the rear of the barrel, easy enough fix.

So, read up on follow through and keep trying, I bet you'll see good results.

35W

[Eddie Southgate]

If the taper crimp works with your natural grip , use the taper crimp . I want my gun to shoot where I point it naturally and not require extra attention to how I am gripping it especially if I am using it for self defense . The advise on adjusting the barrel is sound also . Have you shot any 158 gr standard velocity stuff in it ? Most m10's are probably sighted for that load .

[PBSmith]

Update here after many hours at the loading bench and range, trying to find a load for my S&W 10-5 that shoots to Point of Aim..

Below is a target shot with the best load: 3.7 grains Unique behind a Lyman 35863. That bullet is a 148-grain, double-ended, bevel-base wadcutter..

I never looked at Unique as a wadcutter powder, but won't complain about the results. Range 21 yards. Six o'clock hold. I take full credit for the flyer.

Other powders that showed promise but didn't group as well as Unique are Herco and HS-6.

Thanks for all your suggestions. In the final analysis I followed the advice of member gwpercle who suggested "Keep on experimenting."

[PBSmith]

Eddie, I did try a few loads with the Lyman 358311, being the old round-nose cop bullet of the weight you suggested. I'll have to go back and fiddle with that one again. It grouped very well but with the loads I tried did not shoot even close to the sights.

The 148-gr DEBBWC should make for a good woods carry load. Ed Harris chose a similar bullet for a similar purpose.

I will also resume experimenting with the Lyman 358432 in its 160-grain version.

[Mk42gunner]

Update here after many hours at the loading bench and range, trying to find a load for my S&W 10-5 that shoots to Point of Aim..

Below is a target shot with the best load: 3.7 grains Unique behind a Lyman 35863. That bullet is a 148-grain, double-ended, bevel-base wadcutter..

I never looked at Unique as a wadcutter powder, but won't complain about the results. Range 21 yards. Six o'clock hold. I take full credit for the flyer.

Other powders that showed promise but didn't group as well as Unique are Herco and HS-6.

Thanks for all your suggestions. In the final analysis I followed the advice of member gwpercle who suggested "Keep on experimenting."

Nice POA/POI convergence there.

I very much prefer to have my boolit impact right at the top of the front sight. I guess the six o'clock hold would be all right if the only thing you ever planned on shooting was a standard sized bullseye, but it has no place with a gun used in the field in my opinion.

Robert