Parkerizing solution

[abunaitoo]

I've seen a few clips on making parkerizing solutions.
Has anyone tried to make their own????

[firebyprolong]

I do, it's basically just phosphoric acid, distilled water and zinc or manganese dioxide and a biscuit of degreased steel wool. I'm pretty sure the recipe I use I found by searching this forum. I run most of mine over a Coleman stove in a deep SS line pan, adding water as it needs it. When it's cool and settled I decant the solution off the top back into a lidded bucket and throw out the sludge. In my experience it's not a very sensitive solution, it's pretty forgiving, if it's taking a bit too long to color I'll spike it with a touch more acid.

[notenoughguns]

I do, it's basically just phosphoric acid, distilled water and zinc or manganese dioxide and a biscuit of degreased steel wool. I'm pretty sure the recipe I use I found by searching this forum. I run most of mine over a Coleman stove in a deep SS line pan, adding water as it needs it. When it's cool and settled I decant the solution off the top back into a lidded bucket and throw out the sludge. In my experience it's not a very sensitive solution, it's pretty forgiving, if it's taking a bit too long to color I'll spike it with a touch more acid.

That"s the same formula Iv'e been using since 2006 and has always worked good for me .

[W.R.Buchanan]

You can buy the stuff from Brownell's, it is cheap and works perfectly. It is not finicky at all about Concentration or Temps. I used it to park Wet Grinding Fixtures so they wouldn't rust . I had a hotplate on my bench and a cup of water with a cap full of the solution would do the job as soon as the water got hot. You drop the part in and it fizzes, that means it's working. Softer steels park better than harder ones do.

I could make a part in the shop, and park it, and install it in under an hour.

You absolutely must saturate the part in LPS 3 or some kind of oil when done or it will rust. Parkerizing only turns the surface into a sponge that absorbs and holds the oil. without the oil it rust instantly when exposed to moisture.

Randy

[Sailormilan2]

I made my own and used it a couple of times, and wasn't impressed. I tried the Brownells Parkerizing Solution, and I didn't have much luck. I went to Allegheny Arsenal Parkerizing, and that stuff works good. Very smooth finish. I've done a couple of sporter Mauser 98 builds and really liked it. I just finished a couple of Chinese M14S rifles that come in a dark grey, and now they are really black. They looks so much better now.

[Rapidrob]

I use a commercial toilet bowl cleaner that is almost pure Phosphoric Acid for one heck of a lot cheaper than the "Gunsmith supply houses" sell theirs for and it works perfectly.
Any pottery/ ceramics shop will sell manganese dioxide by the 5 pound bag for a few bucks as they use it to color pottery when fired. You can mix up a huge batch of solution for about 1/3 rd the cost of ready mix.

[Moleman-]

I've been using palmetto solution for over 20 years. I've tried others and so far palmetto has been the best.last time I purchased it from eBay.

[yovinny]

I've been using palmetto solution for over 20 years. I've tried others and so far palmetto has been the best.last time I purchased it from eBay.

I used quite a bit of the old Palmetto green park back in the 90's,,, wish they still offered it.
Just got a gallon from Brownells not long ago and it works great too.

[Moleman-]

The original guy that sold palmetto died several years ago. His son eventually pick up the reins and started selling it. Late 90's when I started buying also. Last used it a couple weeks ago. Have another barrel to do tomorrow.

[waksupi]

I think I was laid off from a company over Parkerizing. The boss was an arrogant know it all. The company had started production on a new rifle that was to be Parkerized. The first batch that came out, I picked up one, and noticed a smear in the finish. I called over the boss and pointed it out to him. He says, don't worry about it. So, I wiped my thumb across the barrel and took the finish off darn near to bare metal. That did not go over well with him. All went back to the bath. It probably didn't help that a few weeks before I had condemned about 300 barrels for the same rifles.

[MUSTANG]

Any recipes for a Gray Parkerize solution instead of Black? I have a 1919A4 parts kit and semi-auto receiver that I have had boxed for a future project for years. Thinking of getting it out and building the 1919A4 this winter. These were a Gray Parkerization; not black - so want to build it as close to original color as I can get.

[Moleman-]

Any recipes for a Gray Parkerize solution instead of Black? I have a 1919A4 parts kit and semi-auto receiver that I have had boxed for a future project for years. Thinking of getting it out and building the 1919A4 this winter. These were a Gray Parkerization; not black - so want to build it as close to original color as I can get.

You want Zinc parkerizing then which is gray. Manganese is the charcoal to black color. Haven't used their zinc solution in 15 years or so, but the Palmetto zinc was a good match on M1 Garand, carbines and 1903A3 springfield rifles (minus the green hue from age). Here's their manganese on some 4140 barrels. The barrel extensions are SS and don't parkerize.

[trebleplink]

I have used "tool black" - works well but is now very expensive. Where exactly does the steel wool fit in?

[405grain]

I've done Parkerizing with phosphoric acid (Prep & Etch) and either manganese or powdered zinc. Both processes gave me a nearly identical black Parkerized finish. This is with home brew Parkerizing, so store bought stuff may give different results.
The steel wool helps to "jump start" the process. The acid eats at the metal surface, and as it takes up the Fe, it bonds manganese phosphate or zinc phosphate to the newly exposed surfaces. In the same way that pouring a bunch of crushed ice into a bucket of water will cool it off faster than just adding one big chunk of ice, the larger surface area of the steel wool will get the acid to start taking up Fe faster than just putting one big chunk of metal into the solution.

[trebleplink]

So, you dissolve the steel wool into the liquid? or use it to scrub?

I've done Parkerizing with phosphoric acid (Prep & Etch) and either manganese or powdered zinc. Both processes gave me a nearly identical black Parkerized finish. This is with home brew Parkerizing, so store bought stuff may give different results.
The steel wool helps to "jump start" the process. The acid eats at the metal surface, and as it takes up the Fe, it bonds manganese phosphate or zinc phosphate to the newly exposed surfaces. In the same way that pouring a bunch of crushed ice into a bucket of water will cool it off faster than just adding one big chunk of ice, the larger surface area of the steel wool will get the acid to start taking up Fe faster than just putting one big chunk of metal into the solution.

[405grain]

You clean any oil off of the steel wool with some acetone, then put it into the solution so that the acid can start reacting with it. You can't have any oil or fingerprints on the stuff you want to Parkerize or you'll get a bad finish. Also, you only want the solution to be simmering, not boiling.

[Gtek]

I was told 180 degrees is the magic number.

[trebleplink]

OK, I ordered 1 gallon of 85% Phosphoric acid, 5 lbs of Manganese Dioxide, and I have some steel wool. What kind of proportions do you use?

[firebyprolong]

5 lb of manganese dioxide is almost a lifetime supply. The proportions I use are 2-6 oz phosphoric, and 2 oz mang dioxide 1/2 pad steel wool and a gallon of distilled water. I bring the water up to 180 then add my mix. After your first run and the solution has cooled, decant the clear liquid off the top and pitch the sludge. I just run it back into my distilled water jugs and properly mark them. It really seems to settle in well about the second run of parts for me.

For zink park I substitute zink for the manganese dioxide.

The biggest issue I can stress here is your prep, degrease, bead blast then degrease again, then straight into the solution. It will not bite on slick metal.

[Moleman-]

At some point you're going to get oil into the solution. Some will say that it must be thrown out, but since oil floats just cover the entire surface with a layer of paper towels and remove them. That will soak up the oil and save the solution. From the solution dunk straight into cool water to remove the solution. This will let you inspect the finish and if needed put back in the solution/ spot blast a shiny spot and back in the solution, or spray off with WD-40 if you're satisfied with the finish.