Lee Pot gave up

[3leggedturtle]

My Lee 10lb bottom pour pot finally gave up the ghost after 46 years and 5 months. So now the the thinking and rethinking starts. Gas or just go with Electric again.

[P Flados]

About a year ago, I went with the Lee 20 lb pot to replace my 10 lb pot that failed after 40 years. I have been happy with the upgrade.

[Winger Ed.]

Do you still have your receipt?
You might be able to take it back for a refund.

Otherwise, you might take a close look at the newer generation 20 pound Lee pot.

[Driver man]

Fix it !

[fcvan]

I ran a 10 lb Lee pot for 30 years before it died and ordered a new one. I also ordered the parts to fix the first one, mainly the heating element. After thousands of pounds cast the pot portion had begun to sag, causing stress on the element. My fix was to reassemble with the new parts, and to reinforce the pot with a 3" x 3" by 1/2" metal shelf bracket.

The bracket was screwed into the upright portion of the furnace while the lower portion of the pot rested on the bracket. I was careful to not have the screws make contact with the internal wiring. My replacement pot was gifted to an old college friend I used to cast with in the 1980s, and I kept my original pot. I later purchased another 10 lb pot (and molds, sizing dies, etc) for use at my second home. Since I PC everything the only thing missing as a toaster oven I will likely pick up from a second hand or thrift store.

I have considered wiring in a PID for temperature control but have decided I don't need one. I have cast so much for so long that I check my mold and alloy temp by sight. I use a lot of Lee molds, but do have SAECO, Lyman, RCBS, and one dandy mold from NOE. Every mold has it's own personality, and I used to cast with 2 molds at a time for cadence control. Anymore, I use one mold at a time and cast a pile of boolits and switch molds.

Casting with 2 similar weight boolits didn't seem to matter as I generally cast a Lee 356-125 2R and Lee 452-228 2R and temp was not varying much. I did pick up a lead thermometer, analog dial type, and it confirmed what my eyes were telling me. Good fill-out, shiny wrinkle free boolits of consistent weight, and the sprues frost over within 30 or so seconds. If speed casting, I sometimes blow on the sprues and literally watch it harden in mere seconds.

Oh, one other thing I learned from an article in some casting article for good fill out. I cast mostly with 2 cavity molds, and fill both at the same time. I let the lead alloy flow just to the left of the holes with the mold slightly canted to aid in flow. I found that a larger single sprue helped with sprue plate temp which cut clean bases.

The added benefit of casting a larger sprue is that most impurities settled on the top of the plate and not make it into the mold cavities. When I see more gunk in my sprues I know it's time to flux again, I use ground walnut generally from my tumbler which is rather close to where I am casting. I inspect the boolits with a large metal spoon so I can roll them around a bit, and the sprue goes right back into the pot. Boolits are dropped on a folded towel. I tend to stack an ingot or 2 on the top of the pot, pre-heating so the ingot is already almost up to temp. A few quick speed casts help the mold stay at temp. Some folks regulate temp with a damp towel, I personally don't want moisture near my lead pot.

Since I got into the habit of never handling the boolits, ASBBPC became a snap. Boolits get cast, cool some, and get tumbled before baking. The first time they get touched is when I size them, everyone develops their own system, I have mine I guess. I tend to load in batches of 500 and push them on through to loading if I have time. If not, they are at least coated and won't oxidize.

[Mk42gunner]

I have cast with gas, both a Coleman stove and just trying a few from my smelting pot, and electric 10 & 20 pound Lee and an RCBS Promelt.

In my opinion, electric pots are the way to go. For comfort while casting if nothing else, you find out real quick just how much heat is wasted when using gas and trying to ladle from a hot pot.

You can ladle cast easily from both the Lee 4-20 and the Promelt, not so much from the ten pounder.

Robert

[trapper9260]

I have a 10lbs one also and redo it for it died on me I got the parts from one of the supplies on here Titin Reloading they have Lee parts.

[Conditor22]

You can get replacement parts from lee for free (+ shipping and handling)

If you like the pot fix it or upgrade. I'd stay with electric, easier to control the casting temperature.

After "after 46 years and 5 months" do yourself a big favor, get a Lee 4-20 and put a PID temperature controller on it.

I really don't know why I waited so long to make one for mine. just turn the PID on, select the temperature you want and forget about it!!! The PID maintains the temperature and makes casting so much easier/more enjoyable

[lightman]

I'll 2nd the suggestion to upgrade to a 20 pound pot.

[Txcowboy52]

I have a Lee pot I don’t use ,I believe it’s a 10 pound I will give you if you pay shipping on it.

[Vinne]

A 10 pounder is good if you cast a little but a 20 pound pot will have you casting longer and let you shoot more. For me, I am not sure if I love to cast so I can shoot more or if I love to shoot so I can cast more.

[Kylongrifle]

I went from a 10 pounder(that was a champ, even supplied my sinker selling side gig) to the 20 pounder. Its a good pot too. Good upgrade

[3leggedturtle]

I have a Lee pot I don’t use ,I believe it’s a 10 pound I will give you if you pay shipping on it.

Thanks for the offer TXcowboy52, a friend is going dig out 2 pots and bunch of wheels weights. I'm also gonna go with a 20lb for making ingots. I am having more fun finding lead and cleaning to put in ingots than casting boolits right now. Todd/3leg

[Texas Gun]

I have a 10 pound lee I need get a pot liner for good pots

[bangerjim]

Go with a 20# Lee 4-20 bottom pour...........IF.........you can find one these crazy daze!

[robg]

hope mine has 20 years left before it dies .

[kevin c]

Despite the occasional complaints I've read, it seems Lee pots can be impressively durable!

I can be a Luddite when it comes to technology, but I have to admit to the advantages of controlled melt temperature. So, I'd go for electric element heating, giving you the option of PID control down the line.

Is that 20# pot a bottom pour? Processing dirty lead means lots of contaminants in the melt, some of which can get into the valve mechanism, especially if the melt level gets near empty.

Sometimes processing is a chore. It's good that you can enjoy it as a learning process and for the satisfaction of looking at the pile of shiny ingots that's the result of your hard work.

[3leggedturtle]

Is that 20# pot a bottom pour? Processing dirty lead means lots of contaminants in the melt, some of which can get into the valve mechanism, especially if the melt level gets near empty.

They can be had either way, But I'm gonna the non-bottom spout. I like cleaning lead and naking ingots right now. I have plenty of boolits cast already. Todd

[Texas Gun]

The thing about Lee’s is you can get parts for them

[megasupermagnum]

The only thing I use propane for is melting scrap. Casting, I wouldn't want to give up electric. It is the most controllable method. The new Lee 20 pound pot, either bottom pour or not is great.