How resistant is a browned receiver?

[Kev18]

I browned my receiver on my '86 and whenever I rub it down with an oil cloth I always get a brownish rust kinda color on the cloth. Is it the brown thats coming off or...

[BigEyeBob]

Browning is just a rust process ,so if you are getting a brown colour on your cloth it may mean that the rust process is still in progress ,or perhaps the browning is coming off .Cant really say as not sure what you used to do the finish and how you did it.

[stubshaft]

Did you kill the browning process with a baking soda wash?

[BigAlofPa.]

Not to hijack your thread. But do you have the leather wrap to save your knuckles? I bang mine with my 30/30 even shooting cast loads. Thanks Al.

[RU shooter]

Keep oiling it or wax it the acid solution is still active to a small degree in time it will become nuetral

[Kev18]

Did you kill the browning process with a baking soda wash?

Nope... only part I skipped. I should probably wipe it down with some baking soda then.. .

[Kev18]

Not to hijack your thread. But do you have the leather wrap to save your knuckles? I bang mine with my 30/30 even shooting cast loads. Thanks Al.

Yeah, mine is a big loop lever I made for my rifle. Its rough on the fingers.

[1Hawkeye]

Rub some bees wax into the browing and you should be good to go. It will last longer than a rubdown with an oil cloth and seal the finish then you can use an oil cloth as normal. When you start seeing rust on the oil cloth just wax it again. I think the only finish more durable than browning is probably stainless steel.

[LAGS]

True Browning is always Active.
It is not just a Finish On the metal.
But putting things like Bees Wax protects it from moisture to keep it from going from a Patina Stage , to a Rust Stage.
Seal your Browning off like is mentioned and you will be very happy with what you have.

[BigAlofPa.]

Cool thanks Kev.

[Wolverine19D]

That looks great, I love browning. To me it is the sexiest finish to have on a firearm and I wish gun makers still used it today. I also really like the plum look you get on the really hard part of some firearms like hammers etc.

What type of browning solution works the best? I have used the Mark Lee express browning solution on a couple of small parts with mixed experiences but for the most part it seemed to work well on a stripped and de-oiled part. I can't speak to how well it will hold up long term.

[Kev18]

That looks great, I love browning. To me it is the sexiest finish to have on a firearm and I wish gun makers still used it today. I also really like the plum look you get on the really hard part of some firearms like hammers etc.

What type of browning solution works the best? I have used the Mark Lee express browning solution on a couple of small parts with mixed experiences but for the most part it seemed to work well on a stripped and de-oiled part. I can't speak to how well it will hold up long term.

Thats the solution I used. Looks nice I find.

[Kev18]

I have renaisance wax, Il try rubbing it down with that. Whats the process I need to follow? Take all the oil off first or it doesnt matter?

[knifemaker]

Just wipe it down real good with a soft cotton cloth to remove the excess oil. coat with a light coat of Renaissance wax. light buff with cotton cloth. Apply second coat of wax and buff. You should be good to go. Once or twice a year apply coat of wax and buff.
I use Renaissance wax on my carbon steel-Damascus knives for rust protection.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I have Renaisance wax, Ill try rubbing it down with that. Whats the process I need to follow? Take all the oil off first or it doesn't matter?

Kev: You need to wipe it down with alcohol to remove the oil, then heat the gun up with a heat gun or leave it in the hot sun until it is too hot to hold onto,,, then put the wax on. The wax should flow. The heat opens the pores in the metal up, and the wax gets sucked in.

If properly done the gun will never rust again.

Randy

[Kev18]

I have two ways of doing it... which one works better?

[knifemaker]

Both ways will work. My way is less labor. The British Museum uses Renaissance wax to protect their metal suits of armor, swords, and they do not preheat the metal. I have my first carbon steel knife that I made 12 years ago and coated it with 2 coats of Renaissance wax. It sets in the open in a display cabinet and the room is cooled with a swamp cooler that puts moisture in the air. That knife blade shines today as it did when made and not a speck of rust on it. Do not use any wax that has silicone in it as it can trap moisture next to the metal and cause rust problems.

[stubshaft]

I use Randy's method of applying melted wax on my muzzleloaders. Works for me.

[Kev18]

Thanks for the info.