truck restoration

[Bantou]

I've patched the body rust several times. In MA, if there's a rust hole, it will not pass inspection. You can't sell a vehicle "as is" - it has to pass inspection (Lemon Law). If you sell it, and it doesn't pass inspection, you can be on the hook for repairs or a refund.
The biggest problem with this truck has been that it stalls for no apparent reason. I've had several mechanics scan it but the only thing that shows is the crank sensor (I think that's what it was). Replaced parts and eventually it stalls again. One mechanic took it for a test drive and it stalled 17 times but he couldn't get a reading on the scanner. Another scan once showed the anti-theft device kicking in. I've changed the fuel pump and the ignition control module - still stalled. I thought maybe it was the oil sensor but they tell me that the sensor in that truck was not the kind that causes problems (2 wire vs 3 wire). It could be the ignition, or just a short somewhere. It hasn't stalled in over a year, though I don't drive it too much. Chasing down a short might get pricey.
It's due for inspection next month. It should pass, but I still wouldn't take it on the highway.

Chasing down a short does get pricey and there is no guarantee they will find it. My folks have a 95 Nissan hard body with a short in the fuel pump/dash circuit. It’s been to the mechanic 3 times now and they still can’t find it. It started out just drawing the battery down if it sat for more than a day. Now it stalls like crazy at low RPM. I’m debating trying to buy it off them and just re-wiring that circuit entirely.


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[abunaitoo]

When it stalls, how do you get it started again????
Do you just wait for a little while, and it will start and drive????
Do you have to let it sit over night????
When it stalls, do all the dash lights come on????
I'd rather drive older cars and trucks.
Less computer, less trouble.
I have a 1990 Maxima and a 1999 Frontier(4cly, 5ps, 2wd)
That body style lasted for a while, so junk yard should have lots of body parts.
I'd check the frame for rust before doing anything.

[Battis]

When it stalls, I pull over, sit a minute or two and usually it starts right back up. That problem has been keeping me from putting alot of money into fixing it up. The condition of the frame is something I should check out well.

[Remiel]

When it stalls, I pull over, sit a minute or two and usually it starts right back up. That problem has been keeping me from putting alot of money into fixing it up. The condition of the frame is something I should check out well.

But does it strait cut off or diesel out?

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[Battis]

I'm not sure what diesel out means. Just before it stalls, it's almost like a switch was flipped, and I know it's coming. That's why I was wondering if it was the oil sensor that was causing it, but they say that's not the case in this truck.
Looking back, the crank and cam sensors show up on a scan every time it stalls (except for the one time when the anti-theft showed on the scan), but apparently it's a false reading.

[Remiel]

I'm not sure what diesel out means. Just before it stalls, it's almost like a switch was flipped, and I know it's coming. That's why I was wondering if it was the oil sensor that was causing it, but they say that's not the case in this truck.
Looking back, the crank and cam sensors show up on a scan every time it stalls (except for the one time when the anti-theft showed on the scan), but apparently it's a false reading.

Dieseling out means that it sounds like a tractor trailer before stalling, also can be said to sound like it out or running out of gas, if it was the oil sensor it would just shut down sometimes it would give the oil light. But if you are getting some kind of warning (running rough before stall) it could be fuel related, did you have the pump tested and the tank checked for debris? Also if its a loose/bad ground it could cause the pump to run intermently, both first gen and 2nd gen s10's(and 88-98 full size trucks) have a ground wire that runs from the pump to a spot on the frame just above the rear axle at the arch and it screwed into a area that collects dirt and salt and can cause the end of the wire to corrode and lose connection.

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[Freightman]

Haven't had a car payment in 17 years and I drive a 31 year old F250 wife drives a 17 year old Mercury Grand Marque fix it and drive it as long as it works. A new F250 start at 40K that is a lot of fixing.

[Remiel]

Haven't had a car payment in 17 years and I drive a 31 year old F250 wife drives a 17 year old Mercury Grand Marque fix it and drive it as long as it works. A new F250 start at 40K that is a lot of fixing.

I have a 98 k1500 with 240k on the clock, i just chase the rust and regular maintenance, we do have a car note for the wife's Toyota though, no choice, last car ended up with a bad frame and was already repaired once and we needed a car at the time.

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[Kraschenbirn]

When it stalls, I pull over, sit a minute or two and usually it starts right back up. That problem has been keeping me from putting alot of money into fixing it up. The condition of the frame is something I should check out well.

I know this may sound stupid but has anyone changed out the in-line fuel filter and checked/cleaned the fuel pump inlet screen? I once had an S10 (4.3L V-6) that would do exactly the same thing. 'Bout drove me and a mechanic buddy nuts (we've both got A&P certificates and he's been running a 'performance' shop for the last 20 years). Nothing 'fuel system' showed up on the diagnostic but we finally decided to pull fuel pump, anyway. Must have gotten a tankful of bad gas at some time or another...all kinds of crud on bottom of tank and pump screen about 50% clogged. Cleaned tank, screen, and replaced fuel filter; truck was still running without a hiccup when I sold it 4 years later.

Bill

[30calflash]

Do they use calcium on the roads in the winter there? That stuff eats everything from rectum to appetite! I'd look at the frame on a lift & make sure it isn't in self destruct mode. Look at fuel and brake lines while under there.

Some folks posted on the weak points on an S10, o look those over also.

I've a 96 mazda B2300 (think Ford Ranger) that has a strong frame. Runs great has 280K for mileage. I was going to give it the deluxe but found another Ranger extended cab and decided to go with that instead.

[Winger Ed.]

A new F250 start at 40K that is a lot of fixing.

If you can survive with a stripped down 'fleet' truck--
rubber mats, wind up windows, vinyl bench seat, steel rims, AM/FM radio--

See the Fleet Sales guy out in the little shack behind the dealership.
When new, fancy, 'city truck' F250s were 50-ish thousand, I got mine for 22K.

[Battis]

I tried many things to fix it - at one point I didn't turn the radio on and it didn't stall for a long time. My mechanic said I was nuts. He's right, and then the truck stalled again. I tried not having any weight on the keys in the ignition. I think it was GM vehicles that had ignition problems. Still stalled.
I did put a new fuel pump in and changed the inline fuel filter. It was really good for awhile, then stalled again. The pump I put in was a cheap one. That was a $1000 job back then for a mechanic to do it.
I really think it's a fuel tank/line issue. Lately I've been using a portable gas can to fuel it and it runs well. Or, a short somewhere...
I really should have the frame checked out before I think about putting money into it.

[megasupermagnum]

Chances are slim that it is a fuel line problem. If you want to fix this yourself, what you need to do is buy a fuel pressure gauge, and drive around with it until it stalls. If you have adequate fuel pressure, that is not your problem. If it was any kind of fuel flow problem, you would sputter, not die instantly. Now I am fuzzy on your exact model, but I want to say yours has the vortec fuel injection system. This system has a spider that distributes the fuel flow to each injector, but the catch is that each injector is essentially a poppet valve. It needs that pressure to overcome the spring, and that is what allows the fuel to atomize. If you are below that fuel pressure, it simply wont open at all. I want to say that cutoff is something like 55 PSI fuel pressure. However, I've not heard of a Vortec shutting down while running, fuel pressure problems almost always show themselves by a hard, or no start.


I have not seen exactly how it stalls. Is this while driving? If so, does it immediately start again?

[Battis]

I'll be driving along, then just before it stalls, I can feel a change in the power. Then it dies. Usually, it will start within a few minutes. If it sits overnight it'll start and drive like it's brand new.
Now I remember - the scans show either the crank or cam sensors, but they're both actually fine.

[skeettx]

At one time I had a 1970 MGB and the spark advance wire was broken INSIDE the insulation.
So when warm, the insulation would soften and allow the wire to gap causing the engine
to quit.
Then when the accelerator was not causing strain and the insulation was a bit cooler, the
engine would start and run just fine

Mike

[megasupermagnum]

I'll be driving along, then just before it stalls, I can feel a change in the power. Then it dies. Usually, it will start within a few minutes. If it sits overnight it'll start and drive like it's brand new.
Now I remember - the scans show either the crank or cam sensors, but they're both actually fine.

It is possible it is a fuel problem. Ideally, you would drive around with a fuel pressure gauge until it happens again, and check. I once ran into a problem on someone's 1998 chevy 1500 I was asked to look at. In this case, it was very hard to start, but ran fine once going. I checked multiple times, and fuel pressure was good. Finally one time I noticed I heard the fuel pump sounding weak. Before I could do any more checking, the guy decided to buy a fuel pump unfortunately. This one still didn't work. I looked at it again, and noticed that the ground wire on this particular Chevy didn't go to the frame, it only went to the engine. Apparently Chevy engineers thought the rubber motor mounts, and thin metal strapping (over painted metal) was an adequate ground. I checked from battery to frame, and sure enough, something like 200 ohms. I ran a proper ground cable from engine to frame, and cleaned the fuel pump ground. That fixed that problem.

[Winger Ed.]

[QUOTE=megasupermagnum;4927120]I ran a proper ground cable from engine to frame, /QUOTE]

I've seen a couple guys go crazy chasing a problem and finally found it to be a ground.

Electricity will try to find a ground:
A mechanic buddy got a car in once that the emergency brake cable was stuck and wouldn't pass state inspection.
He stomped on it some- that didn't fix it.
He pulled it off and found it had welded itself to the metal sheath.

Every pathway for electricity was insulated or missing between the grounds to the body shell, to the engine, to the frame.
It found a path through the emergency brake cable, and eventually welded itself together.

[woodbutcher]

Something that nobody has yet mentioned.Have you tried a known good coil yet?Had the same problem with one of my vehicles.Tried another coil.Fixed the problem.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[EDG]

I had a 77 Ford F-150 that stalled going down the freeway in heavy traffic - i let it roll off to the shoulder and it restarted.
It did that a few more times and I researched the problem. It was a common problem in those vehicles and was the electronic ignition module.

I put a new electronic ignition module in it and it quit stalling for about a year. So I put another in and it quit for another year. The next module i bought was a higher quality electronics brand - Standard - Blue Streak. That was the end of my stalling issues. It ran another 15 years without stalling.

[abunaitoo]

Being how old it is, I'd say a fuel problem.
Get a can of carb cleaner or spray starting fluid.
Next time it dies, spray some in the air intake.
If it starts, you've found your problem.
Screen in the tank is sucking up rubbish in the tank.
Drop the tank and clean out the rubbish.
I would change the pump and screen since the tank is out.
If I remember correct the line at the tank need a special tool to remove.
Quick disconnect tool.
Those old S10 don't give that much trouble.