swaging 375 from 223 cases

[brass410]

is it possible? would like to know as I have considerable amounts of 223 cases

[rking22]

Never mind, I’m an idiot! Staging forum, sorry

[clodhopper]

Sure, its possible. Quite afew less step than making .30 caliber.

Just for fun, consider .380 auto. doesn't need much to be a mouse fart projectile.

[Hickory]

Sure, its possible. Quite afew less step than making .30 caliber.

Just for fun, consider .380 auto. doesn't need much to be a mouse fart projectile.

The 380 would make a high gas check for a 300 gr 375 caliber bullet.

[brass410]

I've read thru 150 plus pages in the swaging forum, some say it can be done, and works well. But no posts on actual process or what I would need for dies. I'm green to the swaging process, but I do have a big max press, just unsure of what else I would need tooling wise.

[bigjake]

brass410, look at my post on making .308's from .223's making .375's would be easier but still a decent amount of work. anyway a start would be to use those lee bullet sizing dies. midway and other suppliers have those for about $19 each. If you have a lathe, you can make all kinds of dies.

[clodhopper]

The 380 would make a high gas check for a 300 gr 375 caliber bullet.

Just use the .380 case as a short range wadcutter.

[rockrat]

Size your 223 first, then anneal, cut to length. I fill the case with lead from my pot and fill the case to the case mouth before swaging. I got my swage die from BT Sniper. I also have melted a cast boolit in my lead dipper to fill the case. Makes for a better weight range.

[midnight]

Making 375 bullets from 223 brass is probably the easiest of all bullets to make from fired cartridge cases. The largest diameter of the 223 case is the rim at .378. The base is .376. It requires only drawing down about .004 to get to .374 so it will fit in your core seat die. I first use a chop saw to cut the case to the approximate length I want & then anneal the whole case being sure the soak time is long enough to assure that the thick base is softened. The draw die I use is made by pressing a drill bushing into a pocket bored in a 7/8-14 B7 threaded rod. Only one draw is necessary. Trim in a case trimmer to get the exact length & you are done. A trip through the tumbler with SS pins, citric acid, & a little dish soap makes them nice and shiney.

Bob

[elk hunter]

I made 375 jackets from 38 spl cases and 416 jackets from 30-30 brass. I wouldn't use them for hunting edible game as they are too fragile but, they make good practice bullets.

[NoZombies]

I've also drawn down 9mm brass for .375 bullets. When fully annealed they draw down in one step and make decent varmint/ plinking bullets.

Much cheaper than buying jackets or making jackets from tubing, but as mentioned, even fully annealed they aren't very melleable compared to guilding metal or copper jackets.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
Thank you all for the simple way to turn out .375 jacketed ...
My question is... The rim is the only part that measures .378.. Why bother to anneal ? Use some good sizing wax and ram it through the push through sizer..
With out annealing sees to me the case would retain enough stiffness to use on tough targets...
May have to reduce powder and work back up but that would need to be done anyway.

[brass410]

thanks for the tips ,as I said I have considerable amount, so if I mess up a few no problem. I will get a push thru from lee to start with, and have a buddy who has a small lathe, so maybe we can make some other goodies up to make this viable to do.

[M.A.D]

Id ask BT.... Im pretty sure hes made a few 375's on 223 for a Cheytac??? Ive made some in 357 cases for a H&H , Only because those are free at the range.. And factory projectiles for a H&H are $2 each here ...

[brass410]

BT's on my wish list this year, If I can start back at work before I go broke thanks to corona virus.

[BT Sniper]

Yes 223 rem brass for .375 cal bullets makes an excellent bullet. I use the cast boolit from the Lee 240 grain 30 cal as is for a core to make 315ish grain bullets. Shoot them from a 375 H&H with excellent results.

Couple threads and a pic or two...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...from-223-brass!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ess&highlight=



three shots touching at 100 yrds with the 315 grain pills out of the 375 H&H

[NoZombies]

The die that I use for drawing 9mm down isn't a bullet sizing die, or one of the specialty drawing dies, but rather the carbide factory crimp die that Lee makes for .380. The carbide sizing ring on the FCD leaves my drawn down brass at .374 from the original .390 +/- diameter. Just remove the guts from the die and figure out a punch for pushing the brass through.



You can use a smaller diameter punch that fits inside the brass to push it through base first, but make sure it's small enough in diameter that the brass will release after being drawn. If you use an undersized punch and push it through mouth first, there's a little cupping of the base. From an accuracy perspective I can't tell much difference, and the core seating and point forming pretty well remove the cupping anyways. Probably the best solution would be a punch to push the brass through mouth first having a diameter of .373-.374 or so, that should prevent the cupping, and can't stick inside the drawn down brass.

Because the carbide sizing ring is fairly narrow compared to classic draw dies, using the next piece of brass to push the earlier piece out of the top of the die isn't a problem, as long as the dies are adjusted so that the first piece fully clears the sizing ring before you start the next piece.

200 grain RN with closed hollow cavity in the nose:


Obviously longer bullets can be made from .223 brass, and the drawing is even easier. I make most of my longer bullets using copper tubing, the 9mm brass is just super easy for the lightweight plinkers.

[Pioneer2]

I'd like to be able to make 38-55 bullets out of .223 brass on my Rockchucker if possible. Problem being I have two guns.One is a re-bored Marlin 336 with a 1-16 twist groove diameter .376 to be able to use both .375 + .377 bullets. The Win 1894 is a full .380" and too rough for cast so jacketed it is.Looking at a bullet in the 250gr weight ball park.Thoughts? What size core would one use ?Curious how heavy a bullet in .375 can be made from a 9mm casing FN for levers.Another option would be unaltered 9mm brass wonder what weight a FN bullet would make? Or .38 special more work i suppose?