Bedding a small ring Mauser

[DonHowe]

I'm looking for feedback. I have a 1916 Spanish action with a heavy custom barrel which I am ready to bed into a target stock. I have previously bedded a couple of 98s (which I don't want to take from their stocks to refresh my memory) but it seems the 1916s recoil lug is smaller than a 98 lug.
Military stocks had steel "crossbolt" which the recoil lug was to bear against. Given the absence of this piece of steel in an aftermarket stocks what is the best way to bed the recoil lug area?

[swheeler]

I bed any Mauser with no contact on the front, bottom or sides of the recoil lug, a couple layers of tape coated with release agent at same time as rest of barreled action is coated. That said I hog out enough wood and rough it up so I end up with the front receiver ring and chamber length of the barrel bedded, I like a good 1/8 inch or better behind the lug, rest of the barrel free floated, use the ferrule in the rear screw hole bedded first or later works, and 1/16 inch clearance at the back rounded part of the tang. Acraglass gel is my personal favorite and acraglass release has never failed to give good release and easy clean up. You can buy and install a crossbolt but unless you have done a couple it will probably give you fits. When inletting I try to keep the metal to wood fit as close as I can for that growed right there look, it gets harder with age though, and I'm not an expert like some on here. Hopefully they will ring in.

[22cf45]

What he said!

[LAGS]

swheeler is Spot On.
You don't need a cross Bolt either , but bedding is the same with , or without a cross Bolt.

[Gtek]

I also put foil tape on top of stock on both sides and razor cut internal edge for clean line. Release agent applied on top of foil and allows for push up and roll out of compound. Razor to tape before cure or when cured post pop, file to line and sand to perfect.

[HangFireW8]

Can't add much to sweeler's post, just want to emphasize with a heavy barrell on a small ring, that chamber length bedding of the barrel ahead of the lug is really very important. Don't accidentally free float it with thick layer of release agent. Hopefully the barrell is not tapered there.

[Mk42gunner]

I usually hog out enough wood behind the recoil lug to fit a short section of metal (screw, bolt, whatever) that is wider than the magazine opening, but narrow enough that it won't show even when the stock is refinished forty years later. Kind of a hidden recoil cross bolt.

All that gets hidden by the bedding compound. I like to use Brownell's Accrglas Gel, but do try to do a neat job of inletting so it doesn't show when the rifle is assembled.

Robert

[DonHowe]

Thanks gentlemen!
Your replies were what I thought plu some good tips. The barrel is pretty heavy (Palma profile) so I had in mind to bed it chamber length. After shooting some I may add a bit of compound at the forend tip if I think it necessary.

[Texas by God]

I'd like to know what chambering and where are the pics?

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[DonHowe]

Chambering is .30x57. The heavy barrel is a Krieger 11"twist Palma. If anyone wonders why put that on a SR Mauser, it cost me a handshake!

[Texas by God]

I like that gun-and that's got to be a cool cartridge. The glacial lock time of the 1916 took a little getting used to for me ( raised on 788s & 700s) but I'm really fond of it now. I would use another 1916 action if one came along.

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[DonHowe]

To one accustomed to external hammer single shots the Mauser's lock time seems fast!

[swheeler]

Timney, Wolffe , Dayton Traister and probably others can help you "speed" things up too. That looks to be a fine cast boolit launcher you got going there, enjoy!

[samari46]

I'd bed the whole action and the cylindrical portion of the barrel. Leaving the rest of the barrel free floating. This way you will have adequate support for the action and the cylindrical portion of the barrel. I've done a 1903A3 Springfield,British No4 MKII and a couple single shots. Even a Marlin 444 sporter that the poorly cut wood that fits inside the rear of the receiver. Isn't going to crack anymore. Frank

[LAGS]

I always bed the whole length of the barrel.
I just put 10 mil tape on the bottom of the barrel in the areas where I want it free floated when I do the bedding.
Once the bedding is hard , pull the barreled action out and remove the tape for the clearance.
If you desire more Free Floating Clearance , then just use two layers of tape to get .020" thickness and clearance

[largom]

I always used Brownell's Steel Bed for all of my bedding jobs.

[flounderman]

I didn't see it mentioned, but after you tighten the screws and pull the barrel and action into the bedding. don't leave them tight, back them off a little so they are not torqing the action

[LAGS]

I always use Threadded Guide Action Studs instead of the headded action Screws.
It makes it easier to drop the barrel back into the stock once the bedding is applied , and you clamp the action into place.
there are many Little Tricks that you have to follow when doing bedding.
And some Tricks are specialized to perticular rifles.
For the most part, a small Ring Mauser is not one of those.
But a good rule to follow is , Fit ,Set and Bed your bottom metal first.
Then you have a solid guide to work with when you bed the barrel and action.