45 ACP Linotype

[bigcountry]

Does anyone shoot linotype for 45 ACP? Would lyman #2 be better? I do have a lot of linotype.

[Petrol & Powder]

Linotype is VERY hard and far harder than is needed for 45 ACP.

Actually, Lyman #2 would be better but even that alloy is harder than needed for 45 ACP.

[Papercidal]

I mix Lino 1:1 with scrap lead for approximately hardball alloy. I pay more for scrap than I did for my stash of Lino but it’s kind of a waste to send that much tin and antimony down range when not needed (especially for a low velocity round like .45)

[JM7.7x58]

I’m sure that you can find someone who will trade you two for one, 2 range scrap or 2 pure for 1 Lino. You can then mix up something more appropriate for your 45acp. Three parts scrap to one part Lino would be better in a 45acp.

I run 20:1 (sailboat keel/pewter) or the equivalent of air cooled wheel weights with 2% tin in my 45acp.

JM

[Drm50]

Is sailboat keel a uniform alloy? I’m shooting 50:50 WW:Pb and 20:1 this mix to Sn. This is plenty hard and I use it in 41,44 & 45 cal target loads. I’m in limbo over new mold bought through forum the HB 44cal. thinking I should go softer for it? Looking at 750-850 fps.

[USSR]

Is sailboat keel a uniform alloy?

Short answer: No. It could be darn near anything that happened to be available at the time.

Don

[dannyd]

I use 12 bn in a 1911 works great

[Drm50]

Thanks, that’s what I was thinking. The same as wheel weights for tractors, whatever melts. I don’t have a problem with what I consider pure lead, 99% type stuff. It’s easy to come by. WWs are hard to come by.

[Martin Luber]

I had worked with Lino a long time ago and funny thing was while very hard, it leaded like mad.

Not sure if it began undersize and leaded b/c of that or maybe flamespray put lead ahead of the bullet, or it just had a lube failure . It was hard to size for sure.

Since softer alloys like whl weights were cheap and workedvwell, l never looked back at it.
Thoughts?

[Winger Ed.]

Is sailboat keel a uniform alloy? Looking at 750-850 fps.

For those speeds, or even a little more, I use the least amount of 'goodies' in the pure Lead as what will cast well.

If there has ever been a problem doing that- I ain't smart enough to realize it.

[Petrol & Powder]

I haven't tested my alloy but the alloy calculator provided on this forum (a great tool BTW) shows a BHn of roughly 10.
That is PLENTY hard for 45 ACP and I'm confident I could drop that down a bit more without difficulty. I use that same alloy in 38 Special and it's fine.

[Dale53]

My "standard" alloy is WW's+2% tin. It casts well and works great in all of my revolvers except the hot magnums where I have been known to use a bit harder alloy. I had shot a bit over 100,000 rounds of .45 ACP home cast bullets in both 1911'a and my .45 revolvers. It works beautifully!

FWIW
Dale53

[JM7.7x58]

This is low pressure 45acp we are talking about.

I ain’t gonna buy top dollar Rotometal “Lab certified” pure to mix with my pewter to make pristine 20:1.

This sail boat keel lead pencil scratch tests around 7bhn. That is close enough to pure for my 20:1 mix. We all don’t have access to the same sources. I live on the coast where there’s lots of fishing lead, and lots of sail boat keels. You use what you got. If my neighbor was a plumber or a roofer I might have better access to “pure”. I don’t belong to a range, so no berm to mine.

Pewter is cheap (95% tin), and I like thrift stores. I teach welding and am always burning up work shirts. The thrift stores keep me stocked up with work shirts and pewter.

My “20:1” is the cheapest alloy I can put my hands on, less than a dollar a pound. I run it in 45acp, 38 special, and plain base 30 and 31 cal rifle loads. I have great results with it.

Antimony lead is expensive to get shipped. Wheel weights were banned in Washington over a decade ago. I save my Linotype and wheel weight lead for mixing alloys for high pressure work. 40s&w and metford rifled guns get “the good stuff”!

JM

[Burnt Fingers]

It's a complete waste of a valuable resource.

You can mix that linotype 1:4 with pure lead and have a wonderful alloy for 45 ACP.

I actually mix lino and pure at a 1:5, add .08 of tin and come up with what I think is a perfect alloy for most anything.

It gives 1.97% each of Sn and Sb and 96.1% Pb. Hardness is right at 11 BHN.

[bigcountry]

It's a complete waste of a valuable resource.

You can mix that linotype 1:4 with pure lead and have a wonderful alloy for 45 ACP.

I actually mix lino and pure at a 1:5, add .08 of tin and come up with what I think is a perfect alloy for most anything.

It gives 1.97% each of Sn and Sb and 96.1% Pb. Hardness is right at 11 BHN.

Thanks

[OS OK]

Range scrap will be perfect...we ain't making any pressure here boys.

[Drm50]

My alloy of 50:50 lead : wheel weights and 20:1 mix to tin has been fine for all my revolvers. Most are Wad Cutter target loads. All others are under 1000fps anyway. My new mold is a 44 hollow base WC. I’ve only poured a few just to try out the mold. I hate to pour a bunch without having idea where to start. I have unlimited lead and tin, WWs are running out and hard to get. These will be target loads for S&W 24s and possibly 29s. 750-850fps, don’t have a load yet either.

[Ozark mike]

Low power cartridges like most pistols will never need to worry about harder alloys untill you get north of 44mag. Air cooled wheelweights are more than enough.

[Drm50]

I’m actually not worried about harder alloy. With the new HBWC mold I may need to cut back to softer alloy. My mix is fine for the button nose WCs I shoot in 38, 44 and 45 at like velocities.

[bangerjim]

I agree. You need relative soft alloy for 45's - 10 or there about is all you need. Pure lino would be a complete waste to use straight in low velocity cals like that. Mix it with pure or sell it on here! It's worth a few $$/#

You can PC the 10 alloy and get even better performance with no leading or smoke from grease lubes.

I shoot 10-12 in everything from 30 to 45 caliber and PC it. I make my alloy from pure and lino or a high Sb alloy I have and add 2% Sn.

Fresh Linotype alloy consisted of 4% tin, 12% antimony and 84% lead. The old typesetters used to use it until the Sn was almost depleted and refresh it. But you should have a decent amount of Sb and Sn in there to dilute for you casting needs.