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View Poll Results: Do you fill your multi cavity from the front or back first?

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  • From the front first

    53 58.24%
  • From the back first

    38 41.76%
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Thread: Filling Multi Cavity Molds

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I start with the cavity closest to me and pull the mould out from under the spout.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by curioushooter View Post
    I alternate. I find this essential to keep temp even. Especially important with casting Hollowpoints.
    Same here.
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  3. #23
    Boolit Master Dapaki's Avatar
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    Third selection, I alternate back and forth to keep the mold temp even.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    The NOE website suggests alternating. Traditionally, l found it easier to pull to me than to push.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedlegEd View Post
    Hi Dale,
    I alternate to try to keep the mould temperature uniform. Not sure if it works, but that's what I do.
    Ed
    +1 on Alternating
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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dapaki View Post
    Third selection, I alternate back and forth to keep the mold temp even.
    How is alternating keeping the mold temp stable? You fill the last cavity (front or back) and it's your hottest so start back at the other end where it's cooled the longest. Correct me if I'm wrong!
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  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by RedlegEd View Post
    Hi Dale,
    I alternate to try to keep the mould temperature uniform. Not sure if it works, but that's what I do.
    Ed
    Same here

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    I said front but with 4-6cav molds, it depends. I will often go front to back & rotate that sequence. It gives me less failure to fill out with some molds. Odd I know but that works for me.
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  9. #29
    Boolit Master



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    I go near-to-far, back-to-front. If I fill front-to-back, the pin holding the Lyman mold trough catches the front of the mold, and screws things up. Going back-to-front, I can rest the front of the mold ON the pin, and pull it off after I have filled the first cavity...
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  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    I use a larger ladle and make one sprue puddle over every cavity
    Regards
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  11. #31
    Boolit Master Oldfeller's Avatar
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    I am a believer in a frosty bullet, so I cast hot enough and fast enough to get there and stay there. I also keep a soggy rag nearby so I can chill the aluminum blocks or the sprue plate as needed when lead congealing begins to get all laggy and slow.

    There is a cooling gradient on those multiple spues, making the oldest sprue the strongest so to speak.

    By casting from the sprue pivot on up the line to the furthest sprue then striking the plate when that last sprue jells, I can minimize the amount of disruptive force needed to cut all the sprues. This makes the earliest/toughest sprue see the highest rotational leverage on the cut off plate and allows you to judge the entire casting set by judging off the last sprue that was cast.

    My goal is to be able to cut the sprues without beating on them with a chunk of hardwood. When you get your timing working well, cutting sprues can be done with simple hand force. Cast, jell, move the plate by hand and finger force.
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  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dieselhorses View Post
    How is alternating keeping the mold temp stable? You fill the last cavity (front or back) and it's your hottest so start back at the other end where it's cooled the longest. Correct me if I'm wrong!
    Exactly!

    I sit at a bottom pour. If I pour closest to farthest, I have trouble seeing the next sprue hole with the alloy stream and generous sprue puddle in the way. Pouring the farthest first to closest last, I can see everything and have a healthy sprue puddle.
    Last edited by jsizemore; 06-19-2020 at 08:42 PM.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dieselhorses View Post
    How is alternating keeping the mold temp stable? You fill the last cavity (front or back) and it's your hottest so start back at the other end where it's cooled the longest. Correct me if I'm wrong!
    Alternating doesn't have to be furthest ends towards the middle... it can be, you know, every other in one direction, then fill the skips on the way back.
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  14. #34
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    Back to front letting the lead continuously flow over the filled cavities.
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  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    nearest to me first .usually use 2 or 3 molds fill fast so i dont have to slow down .

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Using 8 cavity aluminum molds with a bottom pour, and averaging just under two fills a minute, I push the mold away (filling the furthest back first). Maybe it's just what I've gotten used to, but I find it easier to see the sprue cavity and control the movement of the block for greatest consistency this way, as opposed to pulling towards me.

    I'd think that the end of the mold blocks filled first, especially on a long gang mold, would get hotter as there's more time for heat transfer from the alloy compared to the other end? I really haven't appreciated a big difference (what'd I look for, a change in frosting, boolits sticking in the cavity more from still being hot?) on my few attempts to alternate, though. Maybe I cycle the mold so slowly that the aluminum cools enough.

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I ladle pour and I've experimented with both and I seem to get the most keepers filling closest to me first. I figure it has to do with the handles sucking heat out of the mould until it's completely up to temperature. By that time I'm in a rythm so I keep going.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsizemore View Post
    Exactly!

    I sit at a bottom pour. If I pour closest to farthest, I have trouble seeing the next sprue hole with the alloy stream and generous sprue puddle in the way. Pouring the farthest first to closest last, I can see everything and have a healthy sprue puddle.
    This is what I do and I share the reasoning.

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    I'm also guessing it is going to depend on if you ladle dip or bottom pour.

    I use a Lee 10# dipping pot and a Lyman bottom pour ladle. I had a few 4 cavity Ideal/Lyman molds at one time and I just never liked them. Most of my multiple cavity (more than 2 cavities) are NOE and in different calibers - seems to depend on the mold. I do rest the blocks on the pot to help maintain heat. Some seem to like a certain direction and others don't. I have a 5 cavity NOE for the likes of the Lyman 454-190. That one requires me to make at least two and sometimes three refills of the dipper to pour the whole mold. I was worried about it when I bought it (used from a member here) but it is one of my easiest to cast with and likes to be poured in either direction.

    George makes a good point though - the older I get the more I prefer to use a 2 cavity - the stamina to keep a multi cavity mold going sometimes just isn't there! LOL

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use a Rowell ladle and work from back to forward so I can watch the pour.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check