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Thread: Powder coat and gas checks ?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Powder coat and gas checks ?

    Ok so seems from reading that if your going to try pushing cast and some higher speeds powder coating is the way to go espically in a semi auto. That being said seems adding a gas check to your power coated bullets would only make things better ... theoretically. So other than your gun simply not liking a bullet that has both would there be any reason to not use both ?

  2. #2
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    There is no reason I've found not to use both except time and convenience. PC alone works up to 2000 fps in some application IF hardness, diameter and PC properly cured.

    Many feel that a boolit with a GC shank shoots better if it has a GC on it. I shoot 247-grain subs without the GC that are tack drivers and hit hard as heck

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    If the bullet is designed for a GC it will generally be more accurate with a GC. The reason is the heel on the bullet. It makes for two edges that have to be perfect for accuracy, the edge of the last driving band and the heel itself.

    I do not see velocity as an issue with PC and leading. So far I can push a plain base bullet up to 2000fps without any leading and they are still less than 2MOA in my rifle. I have not tried faster yet. That is next on the agenda

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Wolfdog91's Avatar
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    Ok makes sense all-around. Another question though, do you guys power coat then gas check, or gas check then powder coat ?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfdog91 View Post
    Ok makes sense all-around. Another question though, do you guys power coat then gas check, or gas check then powder coat ?
    Depends on the individual boolit. Some work best applying gas check and then size before powder coating , while others work better by powder coating and then sizing and checking. With my experiences with a .250 Savage mdl 16, and an RCBS 25-100, gas checked boolits give much tighter groups than those fired sans checks. Interestingly, the extreme spreads of velocity are 20 to 30 fps less with gas checked boolits.
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  6. #6
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    If you want to be economical, try PC on a plane base first. Then try a gas checked boolit. This is where Lee moulds are great, because you can afford to experiment with different boolit types and not spend a fortune. When you figure out what you like, you can invest in more expensive moulds.
    If you want to pushing 2000 ft/sec, make sure your alloy is hard enough.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    My go to boolit mold for 300 BO, 308 W and 30-06 is an NOE 309-150 SP which takes a check. I made a jig with fender washers which stands the boolits up for ESPC. I get great results at 2250-2450 fps through an AR10, M1A, and a bolt gun. Next time I load, I will try ASBBPC with the check on and off.
    Common sense Gun Safety . . .

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  8. #8
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    Here is what I do on A bullet thats stuburn.

    https://youtu.be/1fvXQRve0X4

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    I had tried just coating one of the lee 55's, feeling that they would work like a boat tail (makes sense to me anyway).
    The result I got was that they printed an 8 inch group at 25 yards, like a shotgun. Really bad.

    I had a much better result PC after getting my hands on some gas checks, brought it down to 3-4 inches at 50 yards.

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    I also got my hands on some sample heavier cast, from fellow members and got to try some out. Much better results with powder coat, and more linotype into the mix!

    I responded back to your sales thread, and will be posting the two 6-cavity molds, a 55gn and a 62, for sale. While I had plenty of time to work over the lockdown, I still felt the 22 GC's were quite the pain the boat tail for my taste. So I will share the love with some fellow members.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfdog91 View Post
    Ok makes sense all-around. Another question though, do you guys power coat then gas check, or gas check then powder coat ?
    For rifles I have done both ways. I tend to put on gas checks first, size and crimp the GC, then coat, then size again. I have shot quite a few groups trying to compare accuracy of both and right now I would say it is a wash so far.

    For pistols in larger batches I would use a bullet that does not need a GC. PC, size (if needed) and load. My preference would be to get a mold sized so I could use the bullets without sizing.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check