I bought a closeout barrel for my shotgun that is Real Tree. $50 couldn't pass it up but I'd like it black
Do I have to strip it down first or can I paint over the top of it and if so what is the best to use. I want a matte finish not gloss
I bought a closeout barrel for my shotgun that is Real Tree. $50 couldn't pass it up but I'd like it black
Do I have to strip it down first or can I paint over the top of it and if so what is the best to use. I want a matte finish not gloss
I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled
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Strip it .Powdercoat or ppg epx901 and epx906 is a industrial epoxy tough stuff
Those who would trade freedom for safety deserves neither and will lose both
I've painted a fair number of guns with the 97 cent Walmart spray paint. It does okay, but Rustoleum or Krylon does a better job in my opinion.
Robert
I had good luck using rustoleum rattlecan camo on my mini30/m1a build. Used fronds, lacrosse stick net and pine straw for stencils.
Attachment 263591Attachment 263592
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Realtree is a hydrographic float-on patterned paint coating, so you can simply paint over it.
A visit to the local WallyWorld's spray paint section should give you a choice of a matte black outdoor paint, like Krylon.
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Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
(hi, newbie here, just browsing the threads on a slow day)
I used Duracoat's spray cans with the hardener and paint combined, plus an automotive heat gun to help cure between coats. Five years on with some abuse and both barrels look and feel brand new. Pretty tough, the cans are $30 and are enough to coat two guns.
Benelli uses this for barrel repair. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1117.aspx
I had one repaired and they painted it with BROWNELLS - ALUMA-HYDE® II. The barrel lug came off and had to be resoldered. I wasn't overly happy when it came back painted. That being said it does look good and it has stood up way better than I expected. Based on 4 seasons of hard waterfowl hunting I recommend it.
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I think Aluma Hyde is the way I'll go as I need a couple of other things
I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled
Fiat Justitia, Ruat Caelum
My 300 Blackout AR-15 is like a mood ring it has so many coats of different color paint on it.
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If you are going with simple spray cans, it best to get something intended for metal. Paint for metal usually is has a harder finish than normal paints.
BBQ grill paint usually works fairly well if you just want a standard rattle can finish. The Krylon one is more semi-gloss but I think it holds up better then the Rustoleum. That said the Rustoleum one is a very nice matte finish and is easier to find.
The best way to apply it is to remove all of the oil from the object you are painting. Get some 91% alcohol in a spray bottle and spray it down and wipe it off really well. Or use carb cleaner if you don't mind the smell. Then use a propane torch to go over the barrel without holding it in the same spot too long and it will dry up any oils that are remaining and make it much easier to paint while still warm.
After you get the barrel warm with a propane torch lightly spray a coat of paint and then go over it again with the propane torch making sure not to get the torch too close or it will mess up the finish by drying one spot too fast, just hold it a foot away and go back and forth on the barrel or object you are painting kind of slowly and it will dry and harden the paint much faster then without the heat. Do this for 2-3 coats and you should have a decent cheapo finish. After the last coat go over it every few minutes with the torch to keep drying it/hardening it and it should cure to be a better finish then without the heat. I would still advise waiting a couple-few days before handling it for best results but if you can't then wait at least 12-24 hours.
I have been wanting to go the moly-resin route. It seems to produce the nicest looking finishes that look factory. You can even apply it with a spray paint type gun you can buy. They make these canned air containers that look like a spray paint can that you can put paint inside of like Moly-Resin and Cerakote etc. and spray it on your gun to finish it. You would still have to bake it afterwards and for best results sand/bead blast it before painting but it's a good cheap way to go if you don't have an air compressor and paint gun. I plan to get a cheap $20 paint gun to try out eventually.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |